Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
02-10-2013, 08:51 AM
#2071
Paul,
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
02-11-2013, 10:45 AM
#2072
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=71&setup=x12
Did you have one hole in piston or std 2 holes?
Why to raise the side links?
What are RCA green side springs?
And why to have the shock more angled?
I'm having European Championships race next month and I'm struggling with turn-in.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=72&setup=x12
My setup is that.
The carpet is a bit tricky, not high grip but you really have to drive on power or otherwise the car locks up and the rear end is like with handbrake on.
Very hard to drive on-power/off-power, on every car make on model.
Also, the carpet gets moist from the tire additives and don't get any faster though.
Did you have one hole in piston or std 2 holes?
Why to raise the side links?
What are RCA green side springs?
And why to have the shock more angled?
I'm having European Championships race next month and I'm struggling with turn-in.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=72&setup=x12
My setup is that.
The carpet is a bit tricky, not high grip but you really have to drive on power or otherwise the car locks up and the rear end is like with handbrake on.
Very hard to drive on-power/off-power, on every car make on model.
Also, the carpet gets moist from the tire additives and don't get any faster though.
I raised the links and worked on the football to get maximum travel out of the rear pod. not so much for set up but it seems to work well.
The side springs are a kit that RC America sells, they go quite stiff as sometimes i will even run the black spring (way stiff).
As for the shock angle, Im not really sure to be honest. just felt right to me when building, lol.
Paul,
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
Thanks
Not sure I follow 
I don't recall flanged bearings in the diff assembly. Maybe I'm missing what you are saying. I would love to be able to run the CRC diff but tore up an axel trying to tighten it up. It would not work on my sons 12R5.1 either. I now have 2 new assemblies with ceramic balls that I cannot use, ugh. PM me with any info. Don't want this taking up space on Pauls thread.
I don't recall flanged bearings in the diff assembly. Maybe I'm missing what you are saying. I would love to be able to run the CRC diff but tore up an axel trying to tighten it up. It would not work on my sons 12R5.1 either. I now have 2 new assemblies with ceramic balls that I cannot use, ugh. PM me with any info. Don't want this taking up space on Pauls thread.Thanks
Thanks Robby!
02-12-2013, 07:21 PM
#2073
Hello,
My name is Justin. Im writing you today to inquire about a full sponsorship with the Gravity RC products.
I'm pretty fast.
I thank you for your time.
My name is Justin. Im writing you today to inquire about a full sponsorship with the Gravity RC products.
I'm pretty fast.
I thank you for your time.
02-18-2013, 08:43 AM
#2074
Hi Paul,
In your opinion, if changing from a flexi top deck to a stiffer top deck nets better performance on a cars setup, does this mean you're setup is missing something that would make the flexi top deck the one to use? Would you consider a top deck change a big adjustment or a small adjustment?
Thanks
In your opinion, if changing from a flexi top deck to a stiffer top deck nets better performance on a cars setup, does this mean you're setup is missing something that would make the flexi top deck the one to use? Would you consider a top deck change a big adjustment or a small adjustment?
Thanks
02-18-2013, 10:50 AM
#2077
Hi Paul,
In your opinion, if changing from a flexi top deck to a stiffer top deck nets better performance on a cars setup, does this mean you're setup is missing something that would make the flexi top deck the one to use? Would you consider a top deck change a big adjustment or a small adjustment?
Thanks
In your opinion, if changing from a flexi top deck to a stiffer top deck nets better performance on a cars setup, does this mean you're setup is missing something that would make the flexi top deck the one to use? Would you consider a top deck change a big adjustment or a small adjustment?
Thanks
someday their will be a justin/chase showdown. lol
02-28-2013, 07:44 PM
#2078
Its Kinda cheating to bump my own thread. But falling to page 6 is Staring in the face of not being relevant, so I must do so. Lol
02-28-2013, 08:07 PM
#2079
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02-28-2013, 08:10 PM
#2080
Well, since you bumped your thread I will throw you a easy one.
The only sedan class I have raced is 17.5 blinky but will be getting into mod sedan this summer. Is there a rule of thumb on FDR from a 17.5 to mod. At the track I race at I would normally be at around 4.0. So if I was to go to a 6.5 or whatever mod motor would I go up, down or stay the same?
The only sedan class I have raced is 17.5 blinky but will be getting into mod sedan this summer. Is there a rule of thumb on FDR from a 17.5 to mod. At the track I race at I would normally be at around 4.0. So if I was to go to a 6.5 or whatever mod motor would I go up, down or stay the same?
02-28-2013, 08:23 PM
#2082
Well, since you bumped your thread I will throw you a easy one.
The only sedan class I have raced is 17.5 blinky but will be getting into mod sedan this summer. Is there a rule of thumb on FDR from a 17.5 to mod. At the track I race at I would normally be at around 4.0. So if I was to go to a 6.5 or whatever mod motor would I go up, down or stay the same?
The only sedan class I have raced is 17.5 blinky but will be getting into mod sedan this summer. Is there a rule of thumb on FDR from a 17.5 to mod. At the track I race at I would normally be at around 4.0. So if I was to go to a 6.5 or whatever mod motor would I go up, down or stay the same?
02-28-2013, 08:23 PM
#2083
02-28-2013, 08:28 PM
#2084
