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Old 03-15-2009, 07:09 PM   #31
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Actually, the chassis is G-10. The front shock strut is the standard FRP one from Tamiya. The rear I made from G-10. It has the heavy duty prop shaft from Tamiya and the rear sway bar. It also has the Speed Tuned gear set. Idropped a ball diff in the front and it has MIP CVD's front and back. I'm still playing with it to see if I achieved a signifigant handling improvement. It was fun to build! Don
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:48 AM   #32
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There was a TA01 carbon fiber conversion offerred I am not sure by whom, I think it could have been even Tamiya themselves, with the same battery layout. It had a top deck though, because without it the car will flex and the driveshaft will pop out.
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:16 AM   #33
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I did run a doubler down the center of the chassis- if if isn't enough I'll have to add some kind of stiffner between the front and rear. Tamiya offered an FRP saddle pack chassis for the TA-01-I don't know about a carbon one though. Don
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:48 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by DLS II View Post
Actually, the chassis is G-10. The front shock strut is the standard FRP one from Tamiya. The rear I made from G-10. It has the heavy duty prop shaft from Tamiya and the rear sway bar. It also has the Speed Tuned gear set. Idropped a ball diff in the front and it has MIP CVD's front and back. I'm still playing with it to see if I achieved a signifigant handling improvement. It was fun to build! Don
oh i see. you're car looks sweet!



btw, you know when you put a lot of power to shaft drivin cars you kinda get a torque stear.... does that happen with the ta02? it kinda makes sence that they don't get torque stear because the power still goes throw gear boxes witch reduces the torque stear...
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:35 AM   #35
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oh i see. you're car looks sweet!



btw, you know when you put a lot of power to shaft drivin cars you kinda get a torque stear.... does that happen with the ta02? it kinda makes sence that they don't get torque stear because the power still goes throw gear boxes witch reduces the torque stear...
No, that doesn't reduce torque steer. What reduces torque steer in these cars is the horrible flex in the chassis and the slop in the suspension/steering. Get the chassis stiff, no play and no slop in suspension and steering, stick in a powerful motor and race on-road and you'll have torque steering. Off road, is not that bad. That's why I never use strong motors (and because of the limited gearing allowed and the poor efficiency of the drivetrain).

About the CF chassis conversion for TA01 I have seen it on ebay and it uses the same saddle pack configuration as the chassis pictured above by DLS II.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:01 AM   #36
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well compard to the tc3, tc4, and tamiyas tt01 and all the other shaft drive layouts of its kind, those cars have huge amount of torque stear then the ta02. because cars like the tt01 and everything in the same drive train layout has more of a direct drive (in a way) ... not that many gears and stuff going on. oposed from the ta02 that there's gear boxes and not diff housing with a spur attached.

but you do have a little point with all the slop. but it would have to be MASSIVE slop to limit torque stear lol
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:23 AM   #37
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I forgot the main thing about the TA02 which was the motor sitting across the chassis. This probably has the most important effect in reducing torque steering.

The gears reduce torque steering only because their inherent poor efficiency.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:54 PM   #38
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hi fellow TA02 fans,
i'm having issues with my motor meshing correctly with the spur gear.

spur gear - Standard? (i think its the stasndard one that comes in the RTR but it has mantaray logo on it - any help here?)
pinion - 20T

it seems like its too small but when i use a one size larger 21T its too big.

closest i've got to fit is a 20T but then when on load, it accelerates etc but makes a loud grinding noise.

its usinga 8T motor and the motor mount is screwed on 20.

any help much appreciated.
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:01 AM   #39
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its usinga 8T motor and the motor mount is screwed on 20.

any help much appreciated.
Remember, the larger the pitch, the louder the noise. AV pitch is one of the largest, so there you go, it could be just normal.


But you're not.

You're out of your mind. An 8T motor in these cars will grind anything. Read above and you'll see, nobody uses such powerful motors in these cars for good reason.

But back to the problem. If you get something like a sane motor, say a silvercan, the gear mesh is pretty starightforward.

Assuming you don't have some weird aftermarket motor holder (some companies made them in aluminium but they have different positions for various pinion sizes than the original Tamiya holder, because these companies wanted to increase the gearing options), and you have the correct pitch gear/spur, doing what you say you've already done is enough. Make sure you don't put the pinion too far out or it will grind the gearbox. You have a pinion fitting device in the parts box to help you set the correct clearance. Use it.
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Last edited by niznai; 05-05-2009 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:10 AM   #40
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There was a TA01 carbon fiber conversion offerred I am not sure by whom, I think it could have been even Tamiya themselves, with the same battery layout. It had a top deck though, because without it the car will flex and the driveshaft will pop out.
They had 2 version of saddle chassis for the TA01. Top FOrce which was FRP and TopForce Evolution which was Carbon Fibre. Both were 4wd Buggies but worked awesome on the Ta01. Too bad mine with teh Evo chassis got stolen by one of my students.
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:39 PM   #41
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Remember, the larger the pitch, the larger the noise. AV pitch is one of the largest, so there you go, it could be just normal.


But you're not.

You're out of your mind. An 8T motor in these cars will grind anything. Read above and you'll see, nobody uses such powerful motors in these cars for good reason.

But back to the problem. If you get something like a sane motor, say a silvercan, the gear mesh is pretty starightforward.

Assuming you don't have some weird aftermarket motor holder (some companies made them in aluminium but they have different positions for various pinion sizes than the original Tamiya holder, because these companies wanted to increase the gearing options), and you have the correct pitch gear/spur, doing what you say you've already done is enough. Make sure you don't put the pinion too far out or it will grind the gearbox. You have a pinion fitting device in the parts box to help you set the correct clearance. Use it.
Thanks for the reply mate,
the pinion is definately not hitting or grinding the gearbox case.
Oh okay, ive got a 15x2 that ill just use that instead.
i have the standard motor holder.
ill give it a crack tonight with the higher turn motor.
Thanks
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:51 PM   #42
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15T still too high in my opinion.

These cars have a lot of gears and that's a lot of drag. That means a lot of heat.
There is a lot of rotational mass that has to be slowed down when you brake and wound up when you accelerate.
Diffs are not optimised for high speed (they rely on a convoluted construction to allow use in Tamiya's poorly designed gearboxes; see the huge improvement in the DF03 chassis based cars)
The flimsy centre shaft will probably wobble itself out at some point when the front and the rear wheels drive differently (or not).
The pitch they use is as I said large and that translates into a lot of noise. A lot of noise is a lot of energy. All this energy has to come from somewhere and it can only come from the battery. Hang on a second, you were trying to use battery energy to drive the car not make noise!? Well, that's the way it is.

Just for example, we had yesterday at our track in the 540 class a TA03F car hopped up with every little bit Tamiya and other companies ever made for it, and a black can motor in it for good measure (they're allowed). It was going rather quick and seemed controllable, but boy oh boy, was it noisy!

Good luck.
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Last edited by niznai; 04-22-2009 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:50 AM   #43
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wow you must have been doing something wrong to grind gears in TA02 with a hot motor, i have a mamba max 7700kv in mine and i've never had a problem. even running on full punch. has a steel RW racing pinion though, and of course the TA02 doesnt have the alloy idler like the TA01 and DF01 (ie manta ray) has.

just make sure your gear mesh is ok, gears are in good nick, and no alloy gears in there.
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:17 AM   #44
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i have a mamba max 7700kv in mine and i've never had a problem
Keep at it and you'll succed sooner rather than later!
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:00 PM   #45
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hi guys, i found out i have the skyline speed tuned gears, and been told that i have to use a special (smaller sized) spur thats why its causing the grinding ?
can anyone confirm this?

i used a 21T spur (large in size) and its very tightly meshed (motor just makes a buzzing sound and doesn't accelerate), 20T is sorta loose when meshed & doesn't make contact properly.

there's a tamiya 24/25T spur on ebay which the seller recommends is needed when using with the skyline speed tuned gears.


Cheers
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