ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

I don't know exactly what they are made of. I have used them in all of my cars as replacements for the stock screws. Stock screws tend to strip very easy and RC Screwz hold up to a lot of abuse, especially in my nitro sedan.

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

RC Screwz are stainless steel. I've been using them for a couple years in my offroad buggy. They are good quality. It's possible to strip them out, just like any screws, but they are not any worse than Xray factory screws.

I'm thinking about upgrading to a T3 from my T2'007. Is there any issues with the car besides the front arm holder problem? And has that problem started to go away, or are guys still breaking chassis?

avs

iTrader: (2)

the stainless screws are an improvement over the stock xray screws. (which i find pretty poor quality for a 'luxury' care)
myself, i prefer high grade steel screws like tonys screws. (no relation)
http://www.tonysscrews.com/

JayL

if I want alum shocks on my t3 rubber EU what parts do I need?

Alu XRAY Shock Body For #308306 (2) Part number: # 308322
+
Alu Shock Cap-Nut with Vent Hole (2) Part number: # 308352
+
Hardened Shock Shaft for Alu Shock (2) Part number: # 308363

or

XRAY Alu Shock Absorber - Set - Orange (2) Part number: # 308306-O

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

I wouldn't use the RCScrewz in high stress places like mounting the arms. They bend pretty easily. The Tony's Screws are the best I've seen durability wise.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Can you guys post some pics of how your electronics are setup on your xrays. I am not sure how everything is going to fit. Speed control, receiver, transponder, servo, i am guessing it is going to be a pretty TIGHT FIT!!!!

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

The solution is don't hit a board

avs

iTrader: (2)

Ha! that never gets old!

radwerx

iTrader: (3)

Hi, can someone tell me about their experiences with the 950 bearings used in the aluminium uprights? As I have just destroyed a brand new one (seized solid) within a day's run. Never had such problems with the stock bearings used in the composite uprights.

Thanks.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Hi all, I am having a problem with my t3 that i am wondering if anyone else is experiencing? I am having trouble with steering slop and it is coming from the little eccentric servo saver inserts

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...8ba29275c3ce09


I am finding they become sloppy in the top deck after about 10 runs and it is giving me anywhere between 1 and 3 mm of play for my steering. I am searching for 1/10th's to get my best lap time and cons down and i think this is costing me time. I have checked everything else with the steering thoroughly and the only other slop is coming from my front hubs so i shimmed those up overly tight to check else where and this insert is causing me grief. I have replaced the part twice now, initially swapping the top deck one to the chassis. I am wondering if i have damaged my top deck or is the hole that has been cnc'd into the top deck too big. The car has had some fairly big hits so im thinking that this may be the weakest link in the steering chain and its taking a fair bit of load.

It also seems like there are slight variations in the parts that im buying which is to be expected for such a small part and at least it is cheap at $3 us a pair :shock: If i have to keep buying these parts its soon going to start adding up to a new top deck so im trying to gauge if this is a common problem or something unique. The new parts fit very snug in the chassis but the top deck seems to be very easy to pop in. Im about to rebuild the car for a big meet so Im thinking i might CA the insides of this hole to add a little bit of thickness and once its dried ill pop a new part back in and re check again. I have new steering knuckles and caster blocks coming and Its a bit OCD replacing these parts as they are not overly worn with the car having only done about 40 x 5 minute runs so far. Its starting to bug me to the point i may order a new top deck.


Anyone else experiencing this same problem? Regards, Benzaah.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

Do you guys have any pics of your Xrays? Just wondering....Love this car by the way.

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

They are really weak. I was using Duratrax bearings after my first set of Xray bearings seized, because they are easier to get here in town, and they don't last long at all. You might get half the life out of them if you are really lucky. You can use 5x11mm bearings in the hubs if you remove the plastic inserts. If you do you might want to put a small bit of loctite on the bearing so that if can't move around or anything inside the aluminum hub.

You could try just putting a thin layer of glue on the insert where it meets the carbon fibre. Just enough to remove the slop. That would be quick and easy. I have noticed the same problem on my car too, but I have yet to do anything to correct it. I'm going to try putting glue on it this week and see how that works.

XxAmpEnergy88xX

iTrader: (2)

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...gy88xX/025.jpg


http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...gy88xX/011.jpg


still brand new never hit the track.

HCHL

For me, I took the bearing off the plastic holder and inserted a 0.1 or 0.2 mm shim (make sure your shim fits the plastic holder completely so that the bearing sits flat on the holder after you insert it back). Problem is gone for good. I think this is better than gluing the holder itself as you might have a problem with uneven glue layer.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

I had that, I just used a tiny bit of CA with the topdeck removed and the mount (plastic) removed to take up some of the slop. So far it hasn't come back and I have been racing thursday and practicing sundays.. So a fair number of runs on it.