Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
#4081
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
for something old school, yep I am resurrecting my RC10L2,
I am going to keep it as period as possible, non of these fancy damper tubes and side links, ill stick to the t-bar and friction plates.
There is no class where I race so it will be just for fun.
I have been working with Bezerk who is making me a new custom top plate so it can use modern motors, as the original really wasn't designed when terminals stuck out the top of motors. and ill send the chassis and tbar down soon so he can recreate originals for us.
I have a Protoform P905B to paint up shortly.
I am going to keep it as period as possible, non of these fancy damper tubes and side links, ill stick to the t-bar and friction plates.
There is no class where I race so it will be just for fun.
I have been working with Bezerk who is making me a new custom top plate so it can use modern motors, as the original really wasn't designed when terminals stuck out the top of motors. and ill send the chassis and tbar down soon so he can recreate originals for us.
I have a Protoform P905B to paint up shortly.
#4082
I am looking to put together a 235mm car using the TRR conversion. A friend of mine has a RC10R5 or RC10R5.1 but I'm not sure what one it is and whether it would be suitable for the TRR conversion. I'm guessing with the cell slots in the chassis it is earlier that 5.1?
#4083
Tech Adept
200mm vs 235mm pan car
Hi all,
I want to start with a 1/10 pan car and I was wondering the differences, pros and cons of 200mm vs 235mm.
As far as I have seen, 200mm is easy to find cars and parts in Europe, but I am not sure if 235mm is better.
Any input would be very appreciated
I want to start with a 1/10 pan car and I was wondering the differences, pros and cons of 200mm vs 235mm.
As far as I have seen, 200mm is easy to find cars and parts in Europe, but I am not sure if 235mm is better.
Any input would be very appreciated
#4088
On the other hand, the 200mm cars are more nimble (quicker changes of direction), and have less air resistance (more important with stock classes). The lesser downforce is also not as much of an advantage on slower tracks.
With this in mind, 235mm usually feel more at home running modified motors on outdoor tracks, and 200mm cars do very well on indoor tracks (smaller sizes means stock classes are usually more popular, thus also lower speeds and tighter corners, all playing to their advantages).
But they can both run fine on each others "territory".
#4090
Tech Adept
The cars are fairly similar. 235mm have two main advantages: they can carry more speed through a corner (thanks to the wider track), and their wider bodies gives them extra downforce.
On the other hand, the 200mm cars are more nimble (quicker changes of direction), and have less air resistance (more important with stock classes). The lesser downforce is also not as much of an advantage on slower tracks.
With this in mind, 235mm usually feel more at home running modified motors on outdoor tracks, and 200mm cars do very well on indoor tracks (smaller sizes means stock classes are usually more popular, thus also lower speeds and tighter corners, all playing to their advantages).
But they can both run fine on each others "territory".
On the other hand, the 200mm cars are more nimble (quicker changes of direction), and have less air resistance (more important with stock classes). The lesser downforce is also not as much of an advantage on slower tracks.
With this in mind, 235mm usually feel more at home running modified motors on outdoor tracks, and 200mm cars do very well on indoor tracks (smaller sizes means stock classes are usually more popular, thus also lower speeds and tighter corners, all playing to their advantages).
But they can both run fine on each others "territory".
I will be racing outdoors in a pretty big asphalt track, low-medium drip. So I guess I will go for 235mm.
Any recommendation about chassis? is it best to have a dedicated 235mm chasis than a 200mm + conversion kit?
Thanks for the help!
#4092
The other big difference might be going from side-springs and damper tubes to having coilover shocks for roll, but I'm less certain of how much of a difference that makes? Others might be able to chime in on this...
#4095
If you already have a 200mm car, then a conversion is an option. But you'll probably also need a decent shock as well.
For the record, I have an RC10R5.1 with a TRR conversion. It's a beautiful car, but a Roche would have been cheaper and easier to get the same result.