wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Looks like your mesh was too loose. It only knocked the top half of the teeth off.

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Yep, I agree, motor pinion was too far from the spur.
Just install with a minimum amount of play and you should be fine, just check around the complete spur cause they're never perfectly round.

ixlr8nz

Gidday,

Is that a kimbrough spur gear? If so I would not run them. I destroyed two of their spurs a couple of weeks ago. The reason why they failed was because the inner diameter hole was too big, allowing movement on the diff assembly. This meant the mesh was not correct under load, even though I had set it correctly on the bench. Later on, I wen through all my spur gears, and found all my used kimbrough spurs to have some damage. 64 pitch was the worst, but there was damage on the 48 pitch gear as well.

The kawada spur gears are a much tighter fit on my diff.

RC_LMP1

In my experience, not only with pan car, the only way, trust me the only one, to break a kimbrough is through a bad coupling with pinion. I tried a lot of spurs but the only one that holds my motor (4.0T with boost and turbo) is the Kim.
Yeah theres a little play caused by the large holes but it never caused problems to me. I think that's even better because permitts that little bit of play whitch absorbs part of vibrations induced by the axle.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Same here
Use different brand of spurs but Always came back to Kimbrough.
Running stock 10.5 boosted or mod 4.5t.
Mod i run with a bit of power program.
Spurs i use are 78,81 and 84 teeth.
It all come down to meshing and how you set the power program.

Regards Roy

kerk

iTrader: (2)

Hmm... the teeth are intact except from the fact that they are all angled. Probably from too much heat generated from the power? And yes, its a Kimbrough.
As for meshing, I kept the least amount of play, and I'd checked through over a few revolutions of the spur just to be sure.

Just checking with you guys, what kind of roll outs are you guys running on mod which can preserve the spur but at the same time have good rip?

Btw, this is the track I'm running on and also the same layout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMmWB-7XZkA

Cheers!
Kerk

Quante

iTrader: (6)

What car is it??
I know the Corally cars of the last years had bearing holders that werent good. Under power the spur (axle) pulled away from the pinion.
Very simple: If you had a proper mesh and it did get stripped, the teeth would be completely gone except of half a mm or so. Only the top means it only contacted there.

Edit -> Pinion could be bad (sharp) as well

Never had a problem with Kimbrough before but like someone said, the last batch (72t I think) for the 1/12th had a lot of play on the bearing hole.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Roll out between 30 and 33, stop using turbo and start adding timing a bit.
Also if your using a HW ESC set your ACC to 500.
This will keep the motor cooler
Turbo kick's in with force so i can damage spurs
In stock boosted class here, we use only max timing and hardly any turbo as it smoothens out the power curve.

Regards Roy

corally

Ciao

mah... è un progetto a lunga veduta....ho molti amici che la usano e a quanto mi dicono problemi pochi...e molto divertimento

RC_LMP1

@pro10noob

I use a V3.1 120A hobbywing but I have a little bit of heat problem (78°C after 4minutes) how I can set parameters to solve it?
Another question: I disabled all the protection because the values read by esc are completelly wrong like 12V af battery when I run evere 2S lipo, or 110°C even when external is only 70 and it's just not possible.. you had this problems? On forums many other people had. With the protection off it works perfect. Is a fantastic esc

RC_LMP1

Ciao. Senti se ti va vieni a Parona questa settimana o weekend e giriamo insieme cosí ti faccio vedere la mia car pan.
Mandami il tuo numero in privato e ci sentiamo su whatsapp

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

@RC_LMP1.....Never had any overheating probs from both my V2.1 and my 3.1 esc.
Your ESC is reading 78°C or is the real temp this?
What we found out on the V2.1 ESC is when you set the ACC value higher the temp of the motor and ESC stays cooler.
Did it on the V3.1 and it was the same.
Same as if you use timing and turbo.
If set incorrect i could overheat fast.
That is why most of us only use timing with no turbo.
It is smoother also.

Regards Roy

kerk

iTrader: (2)

@Quante - it is a stock X Ray X10 2015 in its 200mm form. I'm running it with a P35 cover.



@Pro10noob (Roy)- If I run 33.0 roll out (76/13 @61.5mm tyre dia) it will strip the spur totally of its teeth. When I run 30.9 roll out (76/12 @61.5mm tyre dia) the spur can survive. As for turbo, I'll try lower engagement slope. Currently I'm only on 6 degree slope... I don't have issues with heat for either the esc or motor. Both are in the 70s degree C after 5-6 min runs in our mid 30s ambient heat.

Really appreciate tips from you guys!

Cheers!!
Kerk

ixlr8nz

I actually emailed Kimbrough about the problem and they replied saying that would check their gears against a bearing. I have not heard abot the outcome, however my own testing has proved this to be a major issue on 64 pitch. With 48 pitch it probably depends how tight your gear mesh is set.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Don't use 64DP gears in a Pro10 or WGT car if your running mod motors and 2 S
48DP should be fine.
Last year i destroyed only 1 spur in boosted stock but that was due to a impact and in MOD on a track with ultra high grip and mod motors i had never a problem at all.
BTW some bearings fit better then others.
The cheaper bearings tend to be more loose then the higher grade and ceramic bearings.


Regards Roy