The YR F2 thread
08-25-2009, 04:46 AM
#31
VERY nice shell Niznai, I could see 10 of them on a track, very easily!!! 
The only thing you could try to add for realism, is a hand made roll bar, not useful, but it would look awesome....
The only thing you could try to add for realism, is a hand made roll bar, not useful, but it would look awesome....
08-25-2009, 06:04 AM
#32
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
I think the main merit is the shell itself which is such a beautifully proportioned car (and one of my favourites in real cars indeed, I almost bought one for my wife). It does fit this particular chassis very well too. The other option I considered for this chassis was a Peugeot 406ST from Tamiya as well, but I only have one of those left in box so I didn't want to risk it. Third option was the Calibra, but I don't have one and they cost a bit much for my taste.
Painting with rattle cans and masking tape is sometimes (and in my case more often than not) a hit and miss affair. I had colours come out differently than I thought they would because of the multiple layering that happens with paint schemes that require more than one colour. The translucent red used for brake lights is particularly difficult and from my experience there's only one tip that works. Heat up the can before you paint as much as you can. I use boiling water and dip the can until it is so hot, I can not hold it in my hand. Otherwise, the paint is so wet, it dissolves the other colours. Make sure all other colours are thorougly dry before applying it too (leave the car for a day to dry before applying), and leave it a day to dry before applying the next colours. Otherwise you will end up with ugly pink instead of white or some other disgusting hues. A hair dryer is handy too right after you spray it, but don't insist too much, or you can melt the lexan. I use heatlamps and adjust for temperature by changing the distance to the shell.
The best job I pulled off with translucent red (Tamiya paint, by the way) was a really beautiful metallic red I made up for my Alpine. I am very unsatisfied by the metallic reds available so I made my own by layering translucent red with Lame Flake and Silver Anodised Aluminium. It came out the most beautiful metallic red I have seen. If I could I would paint my real car with it. I almost think it was a fluke.
08-26-2009, 01:30 AM
#33
Actually I think the photos don't do it any justice. Not that I am such a great painter, but I am an absolute crap photographer. Colours look unrealistic, there's reflections everywhere in the clear windows, the angle is all wrong and I stuffed up something and I don't understand what attaching merely two pictures in the post!
I think the main merit is the shell itself which is such a beautifully proportioned car (and one of my favourites in real cars indeed, I almost bought one for my wife). It does fit this particular chassis very well too. The other option I considered for this chassis was a Peugeot 406ST from Tamiya as well, but I only have one of those left in box so I didn't want to risk it. Third option was the Calibra, but I don't have one and they cost a bit much for my taste.
Painting with rattle cans and masking tape is sometimes (and in my case more often than not) a hit and miss affair. I had colours come out differently than I thought they would because of the multiple layering that happens with paint schemes that require more than one colour. The translucent red used for brake lights is particularly difficult and from my experience there's only one tip that works. Heat up the can before you paint as much as you can. I use boiling water and dip the can until it is so hot, I can not hold it in my hand. Otherwise, the paint is so wet, it dissolves the other colours. Make sure all other colours are thorougly dry before applying it too (leave the car for a day to dry before applying), and leave it a day to dry before applying the next colours. Otherwise you will end up with ugly pink instead of white or some other disgusting hues. A hair dryer is handy too right after you spray it, but don't insist too much, or you can melt the lexan. I use heatlamps and adjust for temperature by changing the distance to the shell.
The best job I pulled off with translucent red (Tamiya paint, by the way) was a really beautiful metallic red I made up for my Alpine. I am very unsatisfied by the metallic reds available so I made my own by layering translucent red with Lame Flake and Silver Anodised Aluminium. It came out the most beautiful metallic red I have seen. If I could I would paint my real car with it. I almost think it was a fluke.
I think the main merit is the shell itself which is such a beautifully proportioned car (and one of my favourites in real cars indeed, I almost bought one for my wife). It does fit this particular chassis very well too. The other option I considered for this chassis was a Peugeot 406ST from Tamiya as well, but I only have one of those left in box so I didn't want to risk it. Third option was the Calibra, but I don't have one and they cost a bit much for my taste.
Painting with rattle cans and masking tape is sometimes (and in my case more often than not) a hit and miss affair. I had colours come out differently than I thought they would because of the multiple layering that happens with paint schemes that require more than one colour. The translucent red used for brake lights is particularly difficult and from my experience there's only one tip that works. Heat up the can before you paint as much as you can. I use boiling water and dip the can until it is so hot, I can not hold it in my hand. Otherwise, the paint is so wet, it dissolves the other colours. Make sure all other colours are thorougly dry before applying it too (leave the car for a day to dry before applying), and leave it a day to dry before applying the next colours. Otherwise you will end up with ugly pink instead of white or some other disgusting hues. A hair dryer is handy too right after you spray it, but don't insist too much, or you can melt the lexan. I use heatlamps and adjust for temperature by changing the distance to the shell.
The best job I pulled off with translucent red (Tamiya paint, by the way) was a really beautiful metallic red I made up for my Alpine. I am very unsatisfied by the metallic reds available so I made my own by layering translucent red with Lame Flake and Silver Anodised Aluminium. It came out the most beautiful metallic red I have seen. If I could I would paint my real car with it. I almost think it was a fluke.
I have been in a 306GTi6 about 4 years ago and I must say they are RAPID! Very nice sounding engine
I have only ever sprayed shells from spray cans and yes, it is pretty hard to make it look good sometimes if there is a lot of masking to do.
Unfortunately, I dont think I took any photos of my best shell before it got subjected to the rigors of racing, but I used to have the old shape HPI Subaru Impreza WRC 190mm shell, as did 2 other friends.
All 3 were properly rally stickered, one was the rally blue, another candy red and another was dark green metalic. They all looked great battling for position
The only difference for mine was it has a 3 level wing, it looked a bit over the top, but it gripped a little better, I had extra tyre squeal!
The 406ST is a great looking (now also rare) body shell. Have a very steady pair of hands cutting and spraying it when the right time comes to do it!
I liked the Tamiya BTCC Volvo S40 (Blue/white) and BTCC white/yellow Vauxhall Cavalier (Opel Vectra) shells too, but they are quite difficult to obtain now.
08-26-2009, 12:01 PM
#34
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Lost my post. Annoying.
Some of those shells are still in various shops or on ebay.
About cutting shells, I don't have problems, just take my time and lately I need very little sanding to finish them off. I have also found some ways to make sure every cut line is perfectly straight or perfectly round. We'll talk about it later.
Today's test report is even more oevrsteer. Shocks are now at 10wt oil rear, 30 front, 1 deg extra camber on the rear (total 1.5deg). I will probably reduce it next and get some better tires, these are on the way out.
Shocks seemed pretty difficult to close without introducing air, but I managed to do it somehow in the end after doing every shock a few times. I might eventually try the TRF shocks on the rear at least. the front is not very accomodating and besides the front seems OK to me.
Some of those shells are still in various shops or on ebay.
About cutting shells, I don't have problems, just take my time and lately I need very little sanding to finish them off. I have also found some ways to make sure every cut line is perfectly straight or perfectly round. We'll talk about it later.
Today's test report is even more oevrsteer. Shocks are now at 10wt oil rear, 30 front, 1 deg extra camber on the rear (total 1.5deg). I will probably reduce it next and get some better tires, these are on the way out.
Shocks seemed pretty difficult to close without introducing air, but I managed to do it somehow in the end after doing every shock a few times. I might eventually try the TRF shocks on the rear at least. the front is not very accomodating and besides the front seems OK to me.
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