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Old 08-19-2009, 09:52 AM   #16
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Motors coming loose in their mount is not uncommon. I used to have this problem when I started racing some time ago. These days I don't take any chances and use spring washers under the motor holding screws and can say this is one incident that never happened to me in a race. Most peopel don't use these, I am not sure why but every now and then they have the motor come loose in a race and it's annoying.

Thomas, Tamiya's CR01 uses a lot of threaded rods which are 3mm. They're not that long though. There is one part that is long enough (perhaps longer than you need), but it's soft aluminum. It is the steering rod on M05 mini cars from tamiya. The stock kit part might actually be a better idea as it might be steel.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:50 AM   #17
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Hi, my manaul is the one that comes with the YRF2 Special kit. The box pics however show the original YRF2 (Fiberglass).The top suspension piece and the top deck are from Fibre-Lyte out of the UK. I cut an Associated Micro Shock spring down to fit. The original red shocks just were not up to snuff, so I went back to the YRF2 original configuration-no shocks-similar to a pan car. In the rear I used Associated pan car front springs. With a 17.5 brushless and a 4600 Li-ion pack it has all the power you could want. Especially if you use the Turbo module! Don
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLS II View Post
Hi, my manaul is the one that comes with the YRF2 Special kit. The box pics however show the original YRF2 (Fiberglass).The top suspension piece and the top deck are from Fibre-Lyte out of the UK. I cut an Associated Micro Shock spring down to fit. The original red shocks just were not up to snuff, so I went back to the YRF2 original configuration-no shocks-similar to a pan car. In the rear I used Associated pan car front springs. With a 17.5 brushless and a 4600 Li-ion pack it has all the power you could want. Especially if you use the Turbo module! Don
So where is that Associated micro shock? I can only see a single blue spring on the front of your car and no springs or shocks at the rear. Am I missing something?

Fibre-Lyte then supplied the top suspension plate, the gbox cover plate (I see that is different too) and the main top deck?
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:09 AM   #19
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All I used was the spring itself. The original YRF2 had no shocks at all-only springs. Yes I ordered all the parts you mentioned from Fibre-Lyte. He also makes a main chassis plate.(YRF2) Don
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:58 AM   #20
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So how does you rear suspension work without a shock or springs, does it just droop all the way down and then what?
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:21 AM   #21
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I just took these pics. Sorry about the focus-I was using the rangefinder, not the viewscreen. The screw at the front of the rear suspension trailing arm has an Associated 10L front suspension spring on the bottom with spacers to take up the slack. On top of the trailing arm is a washer and a o-ring for a snubber. Don
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:35 AM   #22
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Thanks Don, I suspected there was something there form your other pictures, but couldn't tell for sure.

Have you tried thin oil in the shocks before getting rid of them?
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:57 AM   #23
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No I didn't, I was intrigued by the idea of no shocks at all! The pics of the original YRF2 on the box got me real curious. I like the idea of KISS(keep it simple,stupid). I suspect that the "Special" was a concession to the "racers" who had to have carbon fiber,IRS and shocks. Then again I could be as full of stuffing as a Thanksgiving Turkey!! Don
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:24 AM   #24
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Initially I thought the guiding bolts that go through the rear suspension plates were meant to be some sort of friction damper, when I built the car I realised what they were. I am trying to say that without some sort of damping things might get worse with the rear skipping around corners. I will try using crap tires and more camber on the rear as well as a soft oil. Perhaps more holes in the shock piston would help as well.
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:39 AM   #25
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I have only run mine in the street. The rear end will come around with to much speed,but it doesn't skip. The street is concrete. It might be a whole different story on a blacktop track or indoors on carpet. Don
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:17 AM   #26
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I tested mine on carpet and I didn't expect it to have so much grip. I wouldn't take it out to scratch that beautiful chassis. What is the kit oil visosity rating? Mine din't have the label on the bottle so I suspect it is #30. I'll give the shocks a quick rebuild with Tamiya 30 and see what happens.
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:01 PM   #27
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That sounds like a pretty good guess. The bottle from my kit(I think) says 300 and I wrote on it 30. It seems to flow very much like the Associated 30wt silicone oil I have on hand. Don
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I can not see your pictures for some reason, maybe they didn't attach properly.

I fixed the photos so you should be able to see them now

I'm using all the kit-supplied pieces...
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Motors coming loose in their mount is not uncommon. I used to have this problem when I started racing some time ago. These days I don't take any chances and use spring washers under the motor holding screws and can say this is one incident that never happened to me in a race. Most peopel don't use these, I am not sure why but every now and then they have the motor come loose in a race and it's annoying.

Thomas, Tamiya's CR01 uses a lot of threaded rods which are 3mm. They're not that long though. There is one part that is long enough (perhaps longer than you need), but it's soft aluminum. It is the steering rod on M05 mini cars from tamiya. The stock kit part might actually be a better idea as it might be steel.
My mentor at the time who sold me the car for a very good price (had a lot of $ behind him, own business etc etc) knew there was a problem with the motor mount but that wasnt his reason for selling it.

We were going to try and design a new motor mount for it (CAD Design) to try and help the problem as we suspected there was too much movement/flex somewhere but we never had the time to go any further with it.

I dont know why the motor will come loose, or if indeed its something in the chassis design that does it, but the car is very light one end with it being 2wd, so all the "stress" is in the motor area of the chassis, maybe this has something to do with it.

All you can do is, if you're parking lot racing, is to sweep the track as best as you can, as I think i've had a stone chew a spur gear on it very easily, as its quite exposed...

Handles very well on a smooth track though, and being 2wd it takes some getting used to, but rewarding to race with when it hooks up....
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:32 PM   #30
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I have been looking around for a little while for a FWD car shell to put on the chassis. Here's what I've done with it. rattle can paintjob, all colours are painted including window frames. Under the headlight/tail light stickers the "glass" is painted too in the correct trnaslucent amber/red.

Thomas, I made an inquiry and it looks as though Lunsford makes 90mm titanium turnbuckles. Ask your local hobby shop if they can get it for you or try the web.
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