9Likes3racing F109
10-15-2009, 04:10 PM
#196
10-15-2009, 04:10 PM
#197
10-16-2009, 07:22 AM
#199
have anybody race there F109 against a f103 or f104 . I would like to know how it did. I would also like to know if any one try the car on carpet.
10-16-2009, 07:25 AM
#200
10-16-2009, 07:55 AM
#201
nothing buy tire foam for f1- 09??????????
10-16-2009, 09:20 AM
#202
As soon as I can get to a track I will compare the kit tires with Tamiya foam tires (both A and B compound).
As for the caster discussion - the king pin should never lean forward. If you call this pos. or neg. isn't that important. Always run the king pin straight up or leaning slightly to the rear (at the top) - I'd call this positive caster.
"Caster is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward (that is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom pivot), then the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is negative." - read more>>
As for the caster discussion - the king pin should never lean forward. If you call this pos. or neg. isn't that important. Always run the king pin straight up or leaning slightly to the rear (at the top) - I'd call this positive caster.
"Caster is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward (that is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom pivot), then the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is negative." - read more>>
10-16-2009, 09:53 AM
#203
Ok, I'm in! I've got a kit coming to me that should be over the Pacific as we speak.
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
10-16-2009, 09:56 AM
#204
Ok, I'm in! I've got a kit coming to me that should be over the Pacific as we speak.
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
I'll just drive your's till I get one!!!
10-16-2009, 10:04 AM
#205
Ok, I'm in! I've got a kit coming to me that should be over the Pacific as we speak.
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
As far as servos, can anyone tell if the kit will only accept a standard size servo? I've got a Futaba S9650 that I use in my World GT car. Its got enough torque, just hope its not too small. I want to be ready to build when this thing hits my doorstep. Hopefully ill see a few of you at SWR this next Wednesday night.
...Scotty B, your up next!!
-Steve
10-16-2009, 10:13 PM
#209
In putting this car together, I noticed that the rear link setup is pretty close to the SpeedMerchant Rev style 1/12 cars. It also requires you to go through the same setup for the links to create a smooth suspension action.
The instructions tell you to set the links at the same length. This probably won't be correct however. Most of the time, if you do this, you will feel a "clicking" or a "catch" in the side to side action. To really feel what the car is doing, you need to have the links attached to the lower pod plate with no other parts on the pod plate, and the rear bulkhead with the center pivot attached to the chassis and lower pod plate.
It's fairly easy to take 4 screws out of the lower pod plate, and remove the motor mount and axle, upper plate, etc, all in one piece. With the lower pod clean, you can cycle the plate side to side and feel if the suspension is hanging up. If it is, and it probably is, you need to start adjusting one of the links. The idea is to go shorter or longer on this one link until the suspension feels very smooth and free and does not click or hang up at all. You will know which way to go by the fact that one way will make the car start to smooth out, and the other way will make everything much worse. It may take a bit of adjustment, but it will get there.
Once the car is feeling good, you just need to reattach everything and run. If you get into a good wreck, you may have to do this again, as the car may have shifted around. I know after I built my car per the instructions, it was pretty bound up feeling. It took a little cranking, but now it feels great.
The instructions tell you to set the links at the same length. This probably won't be correct however. Most of the time, if you do this, you will feel a "clicking" or a "catch" in the side to side action. To really feel what the car is doing, you need to have the links attached to the lower pod plate with no other parts on the pod plate, and the rear bulkhead with the center pivot attached to the chassis and lower pod plate.
It's fairly easy to take 4 screws out of the lower pod plate, and remove the motor mount and axle, upper plate, etc, all in one piece. With the lower pod clean, you can cycle the plate side to side and feel if the suspension is hanging up. If it is, and it probably is, you need to start adjusting one of the links. The idea is to go shorter or longer on this one link until the suspension feels very smooth and free and does not click or hang up at all. You will know which way to go by the fact that one way will make the car start to smooth out, and the other way will make everything much worse. It may take a bit of adjustment, but it will get there.
Once the car is feeling good, you just need to reattach everything and run. If you get into a good wreck, you may have to do this again, as the car may have shifted around. I know after I built my car per the instructions, it was pretty bound up feeling. It took a little cranking, but now it feels great.
10-17-2009, 05:44 PM
#210
I ran my f109 on carpet today with no setup and was using a 540 johnson motor.
Bone stock out the box setup and the car was awesome. Hooked up very well. I was out driving the 12th scales running 13.5.
Great car, cant wait to actually put it in a race next week
Bone stock out the box setup and the car was awesome. Hooked up very well. I was out driving the 12th scales running 13.5.
Great car, cant wait to actually put it in a race next week