Motor problem

Old 01-16-2004, 06:10 PM
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Default Motor problem

So, I sat down tonight to get my car ready for the weekend and the first thing I noticed was that one of the leads to my motor had popped off. My first assumption was that I was the victim of a weak solder joint but when I went to solder the wire back on I found that what really had happened was that the tab on the motor that the wire is generally soldered to had broken off.

Now I'm not sure what to do. Its a revenge of the Monster Stock motor that's less than 3 months old. The only thing I can think is that vibration from running may have caused an already weak point on the motor to fail.

Has anyone else seen this happen? What's the best way, if any, to fix this short of buying a new motor?
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:18 PM
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Use the tab on the other side.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:28 PM
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The tab where the brushes are soldered?

I suppose I could flip the motor over and do that...

Is this an unusual thing to have happen?

Last edited by plbman; 01-16-2004 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:59 PM
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yes it is, i never had that happen to me, but hey, thanks to the motor companies that they put two sets of tabs on the bells. So just switch the wires to the other side, and have fun keeping the brushes solder as you put the wires on.
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Old 01-16-2004, 08:53 PM
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Keeping the brushes on shouldn't be a problem. I usually solder the contacts to the same tab as the brush shunts.
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Old 01-16-2004, 09:35 PM
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Mod racers usually don't solder the tabs onto the the tabs, they solder ithem directly on the hoods.
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Old 01-16-2004, 09:45 PM
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The shunts aren't actually where most of the power is transfered from the hood to the brush. The shunt's are only good for about 10 amps of current. Mod motors will draw more than 3-4 times that under hard acceleration. Most of the current goes from the hood itself directly to the brush where the brush contacts it inside the hood. That's why it's so important to get the inside of the hood clean. It's also why it's possible for the motor to get hot enough that the solder will melt on the brush shunts and the motor will still run. So it really dosen't matter where you solder the shunt's on. I do it there because it's easier for me with the wider tip I use on my iron.
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