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Old 07-14-2009, 02:32 PM   #1
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Default Tamiya F104, HPI F10 and POPULARITY

Been checking the Tamiya F103 and F104 (can they take lipos?) and the F10 (all that plastic, where are the hop-ups/graphite?!?) and I have a question (or two)....in looking at vids of these type of chassis, why isnt this more popular? I dont know much about setting these cars up, but they seem a bit more simplistic and with the direct drive, one less differential to worry about and the realistic bodies, why arent they more popular amongst racers?
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Old 07-14-2009, 02:42 PM   #2
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Perhaps because they require more skill to drive? and are more fragile.
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Old 07-14-2009, 02:48 PM   #3
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Perhaps because they require more skill to drive? and are more fragile.
Fragile, I can see that because of the way the arms are, but skill to drive? Interesting. Any other thoughts? Thank you.
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:13 PM   #4
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Been checking the Tamiya F103 and F104 (can they take lipos?) and the F10 (all that plastic, where are the hop-ups/graphite?!?) and I have a question (or two)....in looking at vids of these type of chassis, why isnt this more popular? I dont know much about setting these cars up, but they seem a bit more simplistic and with the direct drive, one less differential to worry about and the realistic bodies, why arent they more popular amongst racers?
Trickle down effect IMHO. F1 - full size - is a hard sell in the U.S. Has been since I've been around motorsports beginning in the 1960's. R/C U.S. kinda goes with the flow to mimic what is popular stateside. Hoping U.S. involvement in F1 will eventually bring F1 back stateside and peak the interest.

Having said that, I see increased interest in r/c F1. Me, for example. I'm a newbie in r/c F1 and the bug has bit. Personally, I like the idea that r/c F1 puts forward. Not crazy wild with motors or batteries. Moderation to the point that it really does come down to the driver. And, it's affordable to get into and maintain a viable competitive presence in.

An added plus, the cars really look cool. hpi F10 IMHO provides an entry level platform that most club racers can identify with. Tamiya, they've always done the realistic approach for the enthuiasist. Both balance each other in offering a choice to begin and to continue.

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Old 07-14-2009, 04:41 PM   #5
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Well stated AC.

It is a similar story with me, as soon as I saw the articles and the first Tamiya shots for the F104pro is wasn't a matter of if, but when. I had to get one from the first batch.

I think there are a lot of previous 103 owners that are going to gravitate to the 104 pro, and with the added addition of the HPI F10, I think we are in for a solid foundation in r/c formula 1.

I bet there are going to be a lot of people returning to the r/c market as a result of the F1 line of cars.
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:57 PM   #6
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but skill to drive?
rear wheel drive on foam can get hairy to drive for some people... the cars like to spin out on braking and acceleration if you have a heavy finger...

everything in moderation... motors, batteries, gearing, trigger finger....

the exposed front wheels are prone to a-arm breaks on impact
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:49 PM   #7
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Iíd have to agree with most people have already said. I think the cost of running a competitive sedan has gotten way out of controlÖbrushless systems, motors, batteries, tires, and whatever new widget comes out to help handling/performance. Where as an F1ís may have an initial cost to get into, but over the long hall the cost will be much less to run/race Iíve been running F1ís for quite a while and the cost of a new axel, front A-arms, or diff rebuild is less than twenty bucksÖdomestic

Regarding the cars being to fragile statement, Iíd have to disagree. Over the past fifteen years of running these Iíve never broken or snapped a set of A-arms. Iíve bent a few, but only a few. Thatís running with track full of other cars, rubbing and bumping. Granted theyíll break if you hit a wall with the front corner of the car at high speed, but so would a real F1. Itís an F1 car, not a truggy.

I do think the popularity of this class is going to grow again. To me the F1ís fit the bill for people being cost conscious about their spending, but still having a desire to drive something cool. Just my .02 cents

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Old 07-14-2009, 07:58 PM   #8
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Default Thats for the replies fellas

Thanks for the replies. As I see it, the F104, for about $220 bucks for the kit and the detailing aspect of this car, marries pure hobbiest with r/c racer. The bug has bit the kid. I am an HPI guy and the F10 looks kind of cheesy with all that plastic ...do they have hop ups? I also like the inline battery aspect of the F104 Tamiya has always been the superior line to me, just couldnt see myself doling out that kind of cheese for the 415/416 series. That said, the F104 and pure racing for the fun of it. My first car in R/C (real R/C, not radioshack cars ) was the TL-01 and the F104 will be the next car for me. Any other comments peeps?
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:45 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by bxpitbull View Post
Thanks for the replies. As I see it, the F104, for about $220 bucks for the kit and the detailing aspect of this car, marries pure hobbiest with r/c racer. The bug has bit the kid. I am an HPI guy and the F10 looks kind of cheesy with all that plastic ...do they have hop ups? I also like the inline battery aspect of the F104 Tamiya has always been the superior line to me, just couldnt see myself doling out that kind of cheese for the 415/416 series. That said, the F104 and pure racing for the fun of it. My first car in R/C (real R/C, not radioshack cars ) was the TL-01 and the F104 will be the next car for me. Any other comments peeps?
Don't discount the F103R. Its still a viable chassis.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:23 AM   #10
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Have to agree with Vyger, front end is solid (minus the stock servo saver) on the f103.
The rear axle and non drive side gear box plate seem to be the most sensitive to damage.

F103 is crazy fast, I am sure the 104 will catch up when it has gotten the attention for tweak that the 103 has recieved.

Please support the popularity by getting involved if u can:

http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1SD.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...eries-day.html
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:35 PM   #11
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Tamiya !
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:40 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Don't discount the F103R. Its still a viable chassis.
Wont do that....I just like the way the F104 has the battery inline with the chassis...guess I got used to that with T/C. Batteries that stick out on the sides have always "rubbed" me the wrong way.

Downtempo, if I lived in Cali, I would be part of the festivities....especially since the race day is my b-day. I see stock cans and 17.5's mentioned, has anyone gone ballistic and put a hot (3.5, 4.5, 5.5 or even 8.5) in one of these puppies to race?
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:22 AM   #13
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Default Another question if you will....

I have run T/C with a one-way and not only is it a bit of a chore to drive, but it always feels as if the front has a mind of its own and is ready to leave the ground. With these cars being totally open drive in the front with no true suspension in place, what keeps the front end planted? I have watched a few videos on youtube and the cars look like they ride on rails.
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:25 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by bxpitbull View Post
I have run T/C with a one-way and not only is it a bit of a chore to drive, but it always feels as if the front has a mind of its own and is ready to leave the ground. With these cars being totally open drive in the front with no true suspension in place, what keeps the front end planted? I have watched a few videos on youtube and the cars look like they ride on rails.
They do have front suspension( springs you can change), just no dampening, but the foam helps
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:45 AM   #15
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Default A few more questions....

Motors and batts. I am used to running a 3.5 Novak and MaxAmps lipo in my Pro 4 and going PLAID. From what I have gathered, seems the hottest motor I have found installed is a 10.5. Looking at the chassis, doesnt look like their is room for anything other than a stick pack . Will my Maxamps fit without shaving the battery compartment? Can I run (eventually after learning this type of car) a 3.5? Can the differential and other hardware of the car be able to withstand the torque/rpm's of a 3.5? Thanks fellas, you dont know how this is easing my transition into a REAL section of our hobby and racing.
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Last edited by bxpitbull; 07-16-2009 at 02:57 PM.
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