Ask Todd Hodge..aka "Hodgimoto"
08-06-2004, 09:00 PM
#961
Tech Regular
racingstorm... You have to start with 60 pistons, the white ones. Then you drill those out to 55, and 57. Most hobbyshops have the proper bits to the job, and they're relatively inexpensive.
Bobby Flack
Bobby Flack
08-07-2004, 07:59 PM
#962
Racing Storm-Orange pistons are #55, Blue #54, Red/Pink#56, Black #57, and Tan/Natural #60. Racers Edge offers a drill bit set that can accomodate all your drilling of shock pistons.
JoshR85-I guess it comes down to user preference
JoshR85-I guess it comes down to user preference
08-08-2004, 08:39 AM
#963
Thanks guys... But what's the advantage of drilling your own as opposed to just buying them with the hole size you want? Can understand when you want something that is not standard, but otherwise, why do it? So you know exactly what it is? So you only have to carry around one type of piston?
08-08-2004, 10:20 AM
#964
Tech Adept
Got a question for Todd. I run an outdoor asphalt track that's a little bumpy I 've been trying to get 5mm ride height and maintain 3mm droop. I'm running losi low roll ctr and 0 deg kickup and cs27 tires. problem is I can't seem to get my ride height w/out maxing out my preload on the springs(green). should I just use 2mm droop and find another way to deal with the onpower push? Would stiffer springs in the rear(blue right now) reduce weight transfer to the rear and give more steering?
08-08-2004, 05:05 PM
#965
HeY!!!
alright i didn't know todd...
papa you should measure shock length also to make sure they aint totally jacked up...(use calipers to measure them) try that first.
alright i didn't know todd...
papa you should measure shock length also to make sure they aint totally jacked up...(use calipers to measure them) try that first.
08-09-2004, 06:12 AM
#966
Todd: I have three quick questions for you:
1. Are any of the team drivers using trimmed black belts with spools in 19T? Does it matter if its a steel or composite-based spool assembly? If so, any issues with wear on the belt ? Maybe I am imagining this, but the belt just doesn't seem to work as well with the steel spool with every second tooth cut...
2. What is the difference in handling between the steel out-drive based spool and one built from the graphite composite material (with outdrive protectors)? I seem to notice a bit more steering but it seemed to slow the car down. Any thoughts from your own tests (if done)
3. At Snowbirds last year, you guys were running silver springs on the + and purple on the - were you not?
1. Are any of the team drivers using trimmed black belts with spools in 19T? Does it matter if its a steel or composite-based spool assembly? If so, any issues with wear on the belt ? Maybe I am imagining this, but the belt just doesn't seem to work as well with the steel spool with every second tooth cut...
2. What is the difference in handling between the steel out-drive based spool and one built from the graphite composite material (with outdrive protectors)? I seem to notice a bit more steering but it seemed to slow the car down. Any thoughts from your own tests (if done)
3. At Snowbirds last year, you guys were running silver springs on the + and purple on the - were you not?
08-09-2004, 09:53 AM
#967
KO Race
Todd- Thanks again for the setup you posted a few pages back. That car was dialed. I just needed to motor up more. I think I'm going to try the Trinity motors again. The Orions seem too soft and I keep burning up KR's in 3 minutes. Were you running a 7 or 8 yesterday?
08-09-2004, 06:00 PM
#968
RacingStorm-I just do it to be anal....lol. You get a little smaller hole when you drill them yourself.
PoppaRay-Just get some of the AE Shock C Clips and put them in between the shock nut and spring. This will help you get more preload on your springs.
RichO- 1. Lately most of the team has not been cutting any teeth off the belt.It should not matter if the spool is steel or composite.
2. Steel outdrives give more traction since there is more bind in the outdrive with steel on steel.
3. Probably...I can't remember.
jkerr-I am glad it worked out for you. I was running a 7.
PoppaRay-Just get some of the AE Shock C Clips and put them in between the shock nut and spring. This will help you get more preload on your springs.
RichO- 1. Lately most of the team has not been cutting any teeth off the belt.It should not matter if the spool is steel or composite.
2. Steel outdrives give more traction since there is more bind in the outdrive with steel on steel.
3. Probably...I can't remember.
jkerr-I am glad it worked out for you. I was running a 7.
08-10-2004, 08:52 PM
#970
Ray-Not sure yet.....depends how prepared we are before the WC.
08-11-2004, 08:52 AM
#972
Droop Definition, measurement and adjustment
There seems to be several definitions, methods of testing and methods of adjustment. (or maybe I am just confused)
One definition and measurement... You find a point on the chassis (a hole in the shock tower) measure it's height, lift the front of the car until the front wheels come off the ground re-check the height of the hole the difference is doop.
The other definition and measurement. Remove the wheel, set the chassis on a flat surface, raise the arm as high as it will go(fully compress shock spring) measure the height of a point on the bottom at the end the arm. [I believe this is what the official Losi droop gauge does]
Adjustment:
The kit comes with droop adjustment screws, but people recommend they not be used and spacers be put inside the shocks and the setting fine tuned by rotating the socket at the end of the shock shaft.
Since the kit continues to be shipped with droop screws and directions for their use, it is not clear how imprecise the droop setting will be if someone uses them to set droop.
One definition and measurement... You find a point on the chassis (a hole in the shock tower) measure it's height, lift the front of the car until the front wheels come off the ground re-check the height of the hole the difference is doop.
The other definition and measurement. Remove the wheel, set the chassis on a flat surface, raise the arm as high as it will go(fully compress shock spring) measure the height of a point on the bottom at the end the arm. [I believe this is what the official Losi droop gauge does]
Adjustment:
The kit comes with droop adjustment screws, but people recommend they not be used and spacers be put inside the shocks and the setting fine tuned by rotating the socket at the end of the shock shaft.
Since the kit continues to be shipped with droop screws and directions for their use, it is not clear how imprecise the droop setting will be if someone uses them to set droop.
08-11-2004, 11:14 AM
#973
HeY!!!
Yeah whats the whole deal about that and how the losi cars don't like the droop screws, and how you have to add limiters to shocks??? do you think you could clear that up todd??? thanx
Yeah whats the whole deal about that and how the losi cars don't like the droop screws, and how you have to add limiters to shocks??? do you think you could clear that up todd??? thanx
08-12-2004, 08:07 AM
#974
Originally posted by RichO
Todd: Since your not "releasing a new car" I figured that you may be open to a couple of suggestions when you guys do get around to it
1. Proper droop screws added to the arms that touch the chassis and not the bumper.
2. Vertically oriented ball studs on front and rear shock towers so they can be shimmed
3. Good shocks... :-)
4. Proper weight balance side-to-side without having to resort to stacking up electronics :-)
5. Racer/Graphite kit right from the release date. I know this goes against all USA-based R/C company philosophy, but a few of us like graphite from the outset, rather than buying a plastic kit and upgrading.
6. More clearance in the front and rear hubs if possible to eliminate the need to shave wheels when using black ball stud... ok... I am lazy... kill me.
7. Some cool way to easily set toe on the front of the car without bringing out the setup board.
Otherwise, keep up the good work.
PS> Have you ever heard of a spool setup on rubber that seems to really hook-up using the number 4 hold on the front camber link? I resorted to that hole last weekend to get more steering when dealing with the heat on CS-27's and it really works. (Fernando had to talk me into it :-) )
Todd: Since your not "releasing a new car" I figured that you may be open to a couple of suggestions when you guys do get around to it
1. Proper droop screws added to the arms that touch the chassis and not the bumper.
2. Vertically oriented ball studs on front and rear shock towers so they can be shimmed
3. Good shocks... :-)
4. Proper weight balance side-to-side without having to resort to stacking up electronics :-)
5. Racer/Graphite kit right from the release date. I know this goes against all USA-based R/C company philosophy, but a few of us like graphite from the outset, rather than buying a plastic kit and upgrading.
6. More clearance in the front and rear hubs if possible to eliminate the need to shave wheels when using black ball stud... ok... I am lazy... kill me.
7. Some cool way to easily set toe on the front of the car without bringing out the setup board.
Otherwise, keep up the good work.
PS> Have you ever heard of a spool setup on rubber that seems to really hook-up using the number 4 hold on the front camber link? I resorted to that hole last weekend to get more steering when dealing with the heat on CS-27's and it really works. (Fernando had to talk me into it :-) )
08-12-2004, 09:12 AM
#975
Droop, part 2
Since previous post I have re-read the entire Hodgimoto thread and checked the Losi sites "droop" explanation. It seems I am not the only one confused about this.
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If I remove the wheels and set the chassis on a flat surface, and then without moving the suspension arm or manually compressing the shock or spring in any way, I measure how high the end of the A arm is above the flat surface, I am measureing the 'droop' which is refered to in all of Losi's set up sheets.
(in the front the measurement is made at the place where the set screw goes in to hold the king pin in place, in the back the bottom of the arm where the king pin passes through.
The function of the ride height and droop gauge can be exactly duplicated with a small metric ruler. In the diagrams on the losi site showing droop being measured with a gauge; the gauge is just touching the A arm and not causing the shock or spring to compress.
Correct?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
If I remove the wheels and set the chassis on a flat surface, and then without moving the suspension arm or manually compressing the shock or spring in any way, I measure how high the end of the A arm is above the flat surface, I am measureing the 'droop' which is refered to in all of Losi's set up sheets.
(in the front the measurement is made at the place where the set screw goes in to hold the king pin in place, in the back the bottom of the arm where the king pin passes through.
The function of the ride height and droop gauge can be exactly duplicated with a small metric ruler. In the diagrams on the losi site showing droop being measured with a gauge; the gauge is just touching the A arm and not causing the shock or spring to compress.
Correct?