grind/dremel the chassis flat where the steering is, drill 2 holes and install the tc4 steering set.

Ok spring changes sound good - get more compression up front, bite harder going into corners.

but I am using juice full all 4 - so your suggestion of less up front and more rear is to help with the loose rear?? I would have thought more bite up front.. but I guess we are taking care of that with springs correct?

I am running 60wt up front and 50wt rear.. NO up travel limit.. wondering if I should get something in there to prevent roll?

James

Thanks for the post Bull, I think I will go silver green.. and lighten the oil. We seem to have a similar car. I am currently running a ballistic 21.5 on a havac.

What FDR are you running.. and a spur pinion please?

James

CTA Kinda evolved with rules for the WCICS series ( WESTERN CANADA INDOOR CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES) wwwwcics.ca

Pinion 36t to 40t Spur 60t Robinson 48p ...Mostly used for 1/12 scale. It bolts right in, eliminates grinding motor mount and motor cam for adjustment. You may have to grind out the chassis below the spur if you go to a larger pinion. Outdoor on asphalt last summer I think I usually used a 39 depending on the layout.

BE:cool:
TJ

I think you may be referring to 48p gears here? Those sizes seem too small for 64p. The 3.85:1 FDR sounds about right for 21.5.

OOOOOOOPPPSSS....My "BOOBOO".....you are so correct it is 48 pitch, At least I got the 60 right!!!!Thanks for catching my mistake. I will go back and edit my post.

I just checked the Kimbrough site (Black plastic) and I think I'm wrong again, I think its a Robinson spur (White plastic). "HELP????" me out here!!!

I'M:o
TJ

I used to run these one way shaft bearings in VTA until they were banned and we had to run diff only.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/3605404...Types&var=sbar

It's Robinson that makes the really small 48P spur gears. They machine them from white Delrin and they come in 49, 52, 55, 60, 66 and larger sizes. Tower Hobbies is the only place I've ever seen the really small ones in stock. However, there are big gaps in gear ratio when you change a single tooth on the pinion using these gears. Most of the time, you are better off using 64P gears. There are more brand choices available in small sizes and the increments when changing pinions are much smaller so you don't have to be changing spur gears all the time to get the right ratio. A 60 tooth 48P spur is roughly equal in diameter to an 80 tooth 64P.

Associated made two front one-ways for the electric TC3 / TC4 that I think are now both discontinued. They drop in place of the front differential. The standard one used the same bearings and gear as a regular diff. The "Heavy Duty" was available more recently and used the diff gear with a larger hole that is the same one used on Nitro TC3s and solid front axles. It also uses a larger metric bearing that happens to fit gear box perfectly. I used to see the "Heavy Duty" front one-ways available on eBay and even A-main hobbies for about $45 new until just last summer. I did a recent search and didn't come up with any. I have both types but barely find tracks layouts where they work better than a standard diff. You lose braking ability because only the rear wheels brake with a one-way which tends to make the TC3 go sideways. On a big track or oval though, they totally unload the front end and make the car faster through the turns on the right layout. I never tried the center one-way shaft which was intended more for the Nitro cars.

Hello fellow tc3 owners.

I have some questions regarding the tc3 and tc4. A friend of mine gave me his old tc3 so I rebuilt it, cleaned up everything, new bearings and new electronics were dropped in. most likely this will be my vta car. So as I been looking to get some parts and spares I was looking for suggestions.

I bought a set of tc4 arms locally thinking they fit but the hinges fit loose. If I get the tc4 arms, hinges and the tc4 ft allow hinge/arm holder fit?

What are the major difference between them two and will my tc6 axles and dog bones bolt up if I want to swap to them? Was thinking about ordering a set instead of the allow ones and use regular 4mm hexes and wheel nuts.

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d5fa7c1.jpg

I didn't like the steering rack on the TC3 either when I first got my TC3's (they were both used). Then, when I replaced the racks with new parts, they have worked flawlessly for over 2 years now. No issues. I think they just wear over time. Only $5.00 each to replace them.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZ71&P=7

The biggest change I've made is aluminum steering hubs. I had an ongoing problem with the top ball/screw stripping out from minor or major wall contact. Aluminum has solved that. These are the ones I got off ebay. How they can ship them in a week for $3.00 from Hong Kong is beyond me, but they did! And, they are quality parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-FRO...ht_1484wt_1093

Hello,was wondering if someone can help me out with proper gearing(spur and pinion) be running on a small indoor carpet track(80'X32').I have a novak ballistic 17.5 2200kv motor and a havoc pro esc.It,s for a spec tc 17.5 blinky class.Thank,s

You'll need a 72T or 75T spur, I think Robinson racing or Kimberough make them, and a 48T-52T pinion, 64 pitch. You'll need to remove some of the chassis webbing material under where the pinion goes as 48T-52T is so large that it would rub that part of the chassis. If you're not sure what I mean, try that spur/pinion combo, install the motor and you'll quickly see what I mean.

Thank,s a lot for the help I appreciate it.

I run a 60/37 in 48p - with the 2.5 internal ratio this gives me 4.05 fdr which works great with most 17.5 not cranked up with the timing.

you want to be AROUND 4.0 fdr - then you want to measure your speed on the track and your temperature of the motor after 120-130 deg f. is ideal.

with a small technical track you might want to get the fdr up a bit to 4.1 or 4.2 to get a little more pull - less top end.