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Old 06-23-2012, 11:13 AM
  #11791  
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Originally Posted by racerTC3
What is everyone doing to clean and prep rubber tires for indoor carpet.

Also whats the cure for traction rolling. I had my TC3 setup decent, put on a new set of sweeps QTS-28 real green spec tires and now my TC3 violently snaps into a barrellroll on a tight sweeper turn, and can lift inside weels on a slow off power 180 turn. I put back on the old set of sweeps, same spec tire, and no traction roll, but slight oversteer off power turn.
#1 is to install and anti-sway bar especially on the rear.

#2 is to lower the ride height. On a smooth carpet surface, 3.5mm is not uncommon and will help a bunch

#3 thing is stiffer springs.

You could also try adding more negative camber, up to 2.5 degrees.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:46 AM
  #11792  
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I'm in need of a set of 200mm rally front arms, and cannot find them anywhere!! ANyone on here knoe where I can get some, or have a set willing to sell? PM me or text @ 501.454.2113. Thanks!

-Josh
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:38 PM
  #11793  
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Isn't the "Rally" arms just the NTC3 arms? thats a 200mm car.
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Old 06-25-2012, 01:04 PM
  #11794  
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Originally Posted by nrtv20
Isn't the "Rally" arms just the NTC3 arms? thats a 200mm car.
No. The NTC3 uses an entirely different "pillow ball" type suspension setup. The rally arms are specific to the electric TC3. They have been discontinued for some time and are pretty hard to find. I did a search a year or two ago and could only come up with the rear arms and CVD bones for the conversion. Gave up after a while of trying and never looked for them again. I can't imagine they are any easier to come across now.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:18 AM
  #11795  
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Originally Posted by beemerfan
No. The NTC3 uses an entirely different "pillow ball" type suspension setup. The rally arms are specific to the electric TC3. They have been discontinued for some time and are pretty hard to find. I did a search a year or two ago and could only come up with the rear arms and CVD bones for the conversion. Gave up after a while of trying and never looked for them again. I can't imagine they are any easier to come across now.
You're exaclty right. For whatever reason, the front 200mm arms are the only parts from the conversion they didn't reproduce. I have no idea why. I can find everything else (which is just the rear arms, 200mm cvd bones, shock shafts and springs). I went to my lhs today and got everything I needed to convert back to 190mm. The 200mm width is cool but a running 190mm is cooler
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:43 PM
  #11796  
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just bought a used factory team tc3 with all the aluminum blue parts but i need help with pinion gear size , im ordering the castle sidewinder 5700kv combo and the track i will be on is asphalt with a big straight any ideas where to start?
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:13 PM
  #11797  
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Originally Posted by rangerlover
just bought a used factory team tc3 with all the aluminum blue parts but i need help with pinion gear size , im ordering the castle sidewinder 5700kv combo and the track i will be on is asphalt with a big straight any ideas where to start?
Why did you choose a sensorless setup over a sensored one? Seems for racing, you'd be better off with a sensored setup that would allow you to use turbo/boost features available on some speed controls. The 5700 kv motor is about the same as a 7.5 turn sensored setup. I would start with an FDR in the 9 or 10:1 range and work your gearing based on temps from there. BTW, TC3s don't do so well with very powerful modified motors. There's the "shaft effect" to deal with and the drive shafts can vibrate alot. I once had one vibrate right out of the car during a race running a pretty hot 13.5 setup. These cars still do very well in the 17.5 blinky and slower spec classes.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:22 PM
  #11798  
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bought that combo because of price , im a offroad guy and just wanted to play on the onroad course
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:45 AM
  #11799  
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Originally Posted by beemerfan
No. The NTC3 uses an entirely different "pillow ball" type suspension setup. The rally arms are specific to the electric TC3. They have been discontinued for some time and are pretty hard to find. I did a search a year or two ago and could only come up with the rear arms and CVD bones for the conversion. Gave up after a while of trying and never looked for them again. I can't imagine they are any easier to come across now.
Is it not possible to switch the entire front end over to the NTC3 pillow ball style? Arms, bubs etc? I also just recently picked up two TC3's to convert to rally - and no, no front arms to be had!

Would 6mm off set wheels from HPI work to increase the front track enough?

Does anyone make wider hex's?

I suppose a 190mm TC3 for rally would be ok, not like it's getting "raced".
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99
Is it not possible to switch the entire front end over to the NTC3 pillow ball style? Arms, bubs etc?
not possible, unless you use the NTC3 chassis or make a custom chassis.
The NTC3 arm mounts will not fit the TC3
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:09 AM
  #11801  
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99
Is it not possible to switch the entire front end over to the NTC3 pillow ball style? Arms, bubs etc? I also just recently picked up two TC3's to convert to rally - and no, no front arms to be had!

Would 6mm off set wheels from HPI work to increase the front track enough?

Does anyone make wider hex's?

I suppose a 190mm TC3 for rally would be ok, not like it's getting "raced".
So you grabbed those two rollers...LOL!

The TC3 uses imperial hardware and finding wide wheel hexes may be a bit of a problem. The HPI version are metric and designed for 4mm axles, but you may be able to drill (or file) the parts to fit the TC3 axle size.

Another solution is to try the longer suspension arms sold by AE. The longer 200mm arms are part #3982 and you'll also need the longer CVD shafts part #3986. Yoy will need to lengthen the steering turnbuckles and the upper camber links too. The shocks also need longer shafts and you need #6461 all around.

Check out the AE web pages for the rally conversion manual.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...s/TC3/3020.pdf
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:26 AM
  #11802  
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Originally Posted by SteveM
The TC3 uses imperial hardware and finding wide wheel hexes may be a bit of a problem. The HPI version are metric and designed for 4mm axles, but you may be able to drill (or file) the parts to fit the TC3 axle size.
You can get different width hexes from AE & LOSI for the TC3, you should use the ae 2402 drive shaft with wider hexes, the axle is a little longer
AE= 9890 9891 9892 & 9893
LOSI = A9686 A9688 & A9687


Another solution is to try the longer suspension arms sold by AE.
Front arms are long discontinued and not available anywhere.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:43 PM
  #11803  
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Yes, I have the rally manual & part numbers, thanks guys. I've come to realize the front arms are no longer made, or even available.

Maybe it's a little more trouble than it's worth trying to make it 200mm, I could always buy a 190mm rally body - problem solved!

From the looks of things, these project cars I picked up (which have survived a house fire - not mine) are in need of new bearings & new diff balls all around, a front & a rear arm, couple of hinge pins, some shims and a clean up (plus tires & body) and she's back in (bashing) business! One will be for me and the other for my son to learn from (He's 5). This ought to be fun.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:14 PM
  #11804  
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Hey guys been reading through the thread, I am new to the hobby. Bought myself a TC3 and got a castle creations setup 5700kv and esc. I wanna learn how to drive it first before I upgrade to the newer tc series... Any new tips suggestions on the tc3 setup?
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:28 PM
  #11805  
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Originally Posted by driffydre
Hey guys been reading through the thread, I am new to the hobby. Bought myself a TC3 and got a castle creations setup 5700kv and esc. I wanna learn how to drive it first before I upgrade to the newer tc series... Any new tips suggestions on the tc3 setup?

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ndard_2007.pdf

Don't know what serface you are running, but this is the basic setup for asphalt. If the rear steps out too much soften the spring or lighten the oil. Tires are the biggest driver on setup, go with a good quality slick and use tire sauce.
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