65LikesTC3 Forum
11-20-2010, 09:16 PM
steering rack Help
Can anyone tell me if theres a cure for the steering rack sticking anything aftermarket thanks
11-21-2010, 03:56 AM
No.
But keeping it clean with a Qtip impregnated with wd40 works very well for me,because you don't have to take it apart.
One thing NOT to do is to scratch the inside of the rack to remove the grime. It will get dirty even faster after that. The inside of the rack has to remain as slick as possible.
But keeping it clean with a Qtip impregnated with wd40 works very well for me,because you don't have to take it apart.
One thing NOT to do is to scratch the inside of the rack to remove the grime. It will get dirty even faster after that. The inside of the rack has to remain as slick as possible.
11-23-2010, 04:15 PM
I acquired a TC3 in a trade and I can't get the damn thing to want to go straight.
I am running new rubber tires. When I get on the throttle hard it wants to go to the right bad.
What kind of camber and toe settings are you guys running?
I am running new rubber tires. When I get on the throttle hard it wants to go to the right bad.
What kind of camber and toe settings are you guys running?
11-23-2010, 04:22 PM
There is a possibility that when you pull the throttle, there is so much current going to the ESC, that it might starve the servo a little and thus pull one way or another, however this is probably not your problem. Check the front and rear diffs, or the drive bones and make sure there is nothing bound up, (wheel bearings, drive bones, etc)
11-23-2010, 07:05 PM
I can roll the car forward and backward on the bench and its super smooth. If I lift the front wheels off the bench and spin 1 front wheel (either side) while the rear wheels are still on the bench so they can't turn it feels a little notchy but if the rear wheels are off the bench it is buttery smooth???
I cleaned out the steering rack with some Tri-Flow so hopefully that does something with the weird steering this thing has.
I cleaned out the steering rack with some Tri-Flow so hopefully that does something with the weird steering this thing has.
11-24-2010, 01:00 AM
If you cant determine easily where it comes from, just take the whole car apart screw by screw, litterally. It might sound stupid but it's really not. I buy a lot of second hand stuff and a complete rebuild is just mandatory. There is always something wrong , I repeat always. Every time I did it I ended up glad I did, because there was one, two or ten things that needed a rebuild/replacement. Bent axles/ shock rod, gritty bearings, empty/leaking shocks, CVD which had been "lubed" with the MIP threadlock... 98% of the time the diffs need a rebuild.... the list is just endless.
The tc3 is a great car but it needs constant attention, the small AE bearings seem not quite up to the task so they die on a regular basis, esp inside the wheel hubs. The rack needs to be clean at all times. The inner hinge pin will bent just if you look too much at them etc. If maintained properly, this car really is awesome.
As for the possibility mentioned by trixter, it is indeed possible. I had it happen on a 4 cell pan car with a brushed motor on which I had not put capacitors or a shottky diode.
The tc3 is a great car but it needs constant attention, the small AE bearings seem not quite up to the task so they die on a regular basis, esp inside the wheel hubs. The rack needs to be clean at all times. The inner hinge pin will bent just if you look too much at them etc. If maintained properly, this car really is awesome.
As for the possibility mentioned by trixter, it is indeed possible. I had it happen on a 4 cell pan car with a brushed motor on which I had not put capacitors or a shottky diode.
11-24-2010, 01:11 AM
after re-reading your post, I'm wondering if you have a front one -way? I'm not sure I understand, but this might well be another source of problems.
There are two versions of the one-way.
The first one was entirely imperial, and just didn't hold. If that's what you have, then it is shot for sure. Even perfectly maintained, the lifespan of this part was just ridiculous, and even more if you consider the price.
Hence the second model, heavy duty one way. It has( bigger) metric one way bearings, which were sturdy enough. Downside is the outer bearings: they were absurdly expensive since they had an imperial outer diameter and a metric inner diam. Still, one way v2 was a vast improvement, but it is still far from bullet proof. If that's what you have, you might be able to save it by cleaning it, but NO MOTOR SPRAY in the one way beraing, just something oily, and patience. Again, Qtip and WD40 is the way to go for me.
So:
Take the car apart. Seriously, you'll be doing yourself a huge favor. Take a pic of the inside of your front bevelgear case, and I'll tell you if you have a one way or not, and if it's a oneway, which version it is.
There are two versions of the one-way.
The first one was entirely imperial, and just didn't hold. If that's what you have, then it is shot for sure. Even perfectly maintained, the lifespan of this part was just ridiculous, and even more if you consider the price.
Hence the second model, heavy duty one way. It has( bigger) metric one way bearings, which were sturdy enough. Downside is the outer bearings: they were absurdly expensive since they had an imperial outer diameter and a metric inner diam. Still, one way v2 was a vast improvement, but it is still far from bullet proof. If that's what you have, you might be able to save it by cleaning it, but NO MOTOR SPRAY in the one way beraing, just something oily, and patience. Again, Qtip and WD40 is the way to go for me.
So:
Take the car apart. Seriously, you'll be doing yourself a huge favor. Take a pic of the inside of your front bevelgear case, and I'll tell you if you have a one way or not, and if it's a oneway, which version it is.
11-24-2010, 06:58 AM
I'm really hoping this doesn't turn into another big time money pit. Doesn't really seem like it would be worth much as I think this thing is pretty old.
I got a picture of what I think you are wanting to see but it tells me I can't add links because I don't have enough posts.
I got a picture of what I think you are wanting to see but it tells me I can't add links because I don't have enough posts.
11-24-2010, 07:41 AM
i think you need a 10th post...
You may also want to look at your wheels. I had a bent rear wheel that vibrated so bad the car was erratic and undrivable.
You may also want to look at your wheels. I had a bent rear wheel that vibrated so bad the car was erratic and undrivable.
11-24-2010, 05:08 PM
11-24-2010, 06:06 PM
11-24-2010, 06:20 PM
Mine was a bent right rear. Fairly old plastic.
You'd think that a front would be the culprit from banging pipes and other cars, but it was a rear.
Craziest thing i've ever seen go wrong. I found it by slowly rolling the throttle while the car was sitting on a stand. Whole thing started turning to the right.
You'd think that a front would be the culprit from banging pipes and other cars, but it was a rear.
Craziest thing i've ever seen go wrong. I found it by slowly rolling the throttle while the car was sitting on a stand. Whole thing started turning to the right.
11-29-2010, 08:51 AM
No.
But keeping it clean with a Qtip impregnated with wd40 works very well for me,because you don't have to take it apart.
One thing NOT to do is to scratch the inside of the rack to remove the grime. It will get dirty even faster after that. The inside of the rack has to remain as slick as possible.
But keeping it clean with a Qtip impregnated with wd40 works very well for me,because you don't have to take it apart.
One thing NOT to do is to scratch the inside of the rack to remove the grime. It will get dirty even faster after that. The inside of the rack has to remain as slick as possible.
11-29-2010, 09:20 AM
Never had any problems cleaning mine with an xacto knife, trick is to lay the blade flat as possible and simply remove the grime, you can do this without tearing up the rack....
11-30-2010, 04:26 PM
Anyone know if TC4 steering blocks will fit a TC3?