rpmmaxxed

I think I may not being using enough shims. I will check it out.

Thanks to all the lended a helping idea.

onnetz

what is the lowest gearing that will fit using a 64 pitch spur?
I have the stock 48 pitch 72t spur and 30 is about it for the pinion.. and that gives me a 6.00.
what combo can I use to get around 5.50?

ECHOLogic

New car is being tested. A friend was doing some testing of his own after the last Worlds Warm-up race here in Kissimmee, FL. He did see the new car that Baker was testing. It looked ready for release. Lots of changes meaning more adjustablity. The car looks similar, but you have to look to see all the changes. Not sure of a release date, they would not say.

tc3rookie

Buy alluminum wheel hubs. Can I have a cookie?!? I like cookies!

havy

Hi,

Just got a TC3 w/ IRS conversion. I have been running Nitro on road (LD3) and a brushless micro M18. New to the TC3, will be setting up a brushless car, to run 6 cell and 8 cell pack(if I can get a hold of some GP2200 sub-c cells).

I will be racing this car on asfalt tracks, and have a question about the pinion/spur pitch I should use. I heard 48 pitch is better for outdoor, the car I bought from ebay and has 60 pitch spur, any recommendations. The motor has loads of tork and I plan to push this car to the limits it can handle (not speed record, but fast and nimble)

Also I race in a hot climate (Puerto Rico) and was wondering recommended tires.

Thanks in advance, Did start to go through the thread but there are alot of pages, I'll try to get up to speed, but any help while I catch up is appreciated.

havy

superstress

I used to have the same exact problem. From my experience the following two things are the culprit. Bending of the pin underneath the hex or yielding (compression indentation) of the hex due to the high contact pressure of the pin on the hex. Both of these can be caused by applying to much torque to the wheel nut and or by impact with a barrier. Basically what happens is that the bending of the pin as well as the yielding of the hex reduce the amount of spacing between the hex and the hub carrier. If this distance shrinks to zero the result is contact between the hex and the hub carrier and large amounts of rotational drag.

There are two fixes that I have used to remedy this problem.

Fix#1: Remove material from the inboard portion of the hex to create a larger gap between the hex and the hub carrier / bearings. Make sure that the pins are not bent. Be careful not to over torque wheel nut. Periodically check rotating drag of carriers with wheel nut torqued.

Fix#2 (What I currently use): Replace hex hubs with aftermarket clamping hex hubs. I use the Integy version but Yokomo makes them also and are available on tower hobbies (See Attached Picture). The clamping action of the hubs generates a large amount of friction and hence resistance to motion of the hex along the axis of the shaft. This reduces the loads on the pin minimizing the chance of pin failure / bending and yielding of the hex. So far this set up has worked really well for me.

Hope this helps, good luck.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

I just wanted to drop a line of praise for the TC3 and everyone here who is so willing to help out. I raced today against some very good local competition in modified for the first time.

I burned out the brushes on my Krypton and had to switch to an old but strong 19T Chameleon (no comparison to my 11double, though.)

I had the second fastest car of the day (only off by .1 seconds), and would have Tq'd had my brain not given out on a fast but narrow left hander on the infield of our track. The wreck cost me 10 seconds. I would have had pole by a lap, otherwise.

Incidentally, I was racing against a XXX-S, two Pro4's . and another TC3 (all running mod).

Thanks again DaveW for all your setup advice.

rpmmaxxed

Superstress' advice led me in the correct direction. MY pin was bent, and in turn was rubbing against the hub carrier when the wheel was tightened down.

The prize as promised:

tc3stocker

you should take a look at this, all his stuff is clean and fast, all is in top shape and in prime running condition, no lies, just take a look at it and you will see

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=48539

Wency_TA03R-PRO

yup! its seems like my FT TC3... stock chassis.. Looks like he still haven't milled the center of the graphite chassis..

kh15

i'm getting a new esc the novak erx reversible sprot esc with a 15t limit and i plan to get THIS motor? is that motor a good one? i dont race at a track yet just the local parking lot with friends but i need more speed i'm not happy about the top speed im getting with my 19t mod, and how many runs can i get in this motor before the comm needs to be cut?

onnetz

I dont know anything about that motor but I'm guessing it may not be much better than a good 19t.
as for the esc, do you have to have reverse?
I would go with the novak fusion, it can handle down to 12t for about $55.
there are lots of motors out there, I've been very happy with a 12t D5 flatliner..
It uses p94 brushes that are about $5 a pop, I changed the hoods to take standard laydown brushes, and I've actually found it to be faster, plus they are cheaper.
with this combo my tc3 is about as fast as I can drive it for the area I have to run it..
If you are just running long straights in a parking lot then you are always going to want somthing faster..
limit yourself to some sort of track layout that will for force you to have to be smooth, not just fast.

forgot to mention, I usually cut the comm after 3 runs and change the brushes after about 5 depending on how they look.

DRIVEN

I usually mess around with the ride height only just to make sure the bottom of the chassis does not hit the ground at any given point on the track. Yesterday at a track, I was messing around with my droop and ride height setting and it seems like this two settings are very well related with each other.

If for example you set a droop setting of 6 on the droop scale, as you increase your ride height, the droop slowly diminishes. The reverse of this is if you set your ride height at 6 for bumpy tracks (using the ride height gauge), probably the highest droop you can go only is around 4 on the right height gauge.

It seems like using the droop gauge is unreliable and I must use the droop screw in relation to the chassis to achieve the correct setting.

What's the correct approach on this? Which one do you set first, droop or ride height?

tornado

Thanks Man !

Bryan

SA_Racer

Your observations seem correct, I have found the same problem so no longer use a droop gauge. This is what I do.

Say I want 3mm Droop and 5mm Ride height.

1. I adjust my shock front and rear with max preload while using the tires Ill be racing with. I then adjust the ride height to 8mm using the droop screws. The front can be different to the back, depending on what you need.
2. Once I have set this value, I undo the preload that I have set and adjust the ride height down to 4.5/5mm using the shocks.

This way the car will have 5mm ride height with 3mm droop. Hope this helps.