TC3 Forum
#7486
Tech Adept
Originally posted by Rory
Square - www.square-rc.com/parts24.htm
Square - www.square-rc.com/parts24.htm
#7488
PrecisionRC has them...
#7489
Shocks
Tested my Car with the Tamiya Flourine Coated shocks and it feels different in a good way!!!!
You could try it out!
You could try it out!
#7490
lem 2, what felt different about your car? Did you change oil, spring, or piston settings when you changed to Tamiya shocks?
I had a 414M for about a week, and when I built the shocks they were the best I'd ever seen.
I had a 414M for about a week, and when I built the shocks they were the best I'd ever seen.
#7491
Tech Adept
Thanks Everyone!
#7492
Ok... First weekend runnng the TC3 and I just couldn't get a good setup... Very tight carpet track... Started out in the morning traction rolling played around with the setup and it just got worse... Running white/purple springs... 40/35 foams... Car was very twitchy... Been running the Yok and doing ok... But waiting for a part if I broke something was getting out of hand...
#7493
Do you remember the Dumas front hubs that were around last year made of delrin? They had an extra hole behind the standard one for the ballstud, and using this made the car much smoother. Most people at my track who run a TC3 including myself have made one using a piece of fiberglass. You just need a couple screws and drill a hole in the standard part. Doing this smooths the car out, it might be something you could try. You do have to shorten the tie rods and drill into the ballcups slightly for it to work, but it's worth it.
I'll have my camera back tonight so I'll take a picture and post it if you're interested.
I'll have my camera back tonight so I'll take a picture and post it if you're interested.
#7494
That's definitely an interesting mod... I miss the adjustability of my Yok, but I can't keep tryng to have at least one of everything that can possibly break on hand...
#7495
Some pictures if you're interested...
#7496
from the top
#7497
from the bottom
#7499
Mike D.
Quick question that I should have asked you last night at the Track....
When you told me about the -2degree of kickup in the front of the car where you talking about the Front arms leaning Forward? You said you had to cut material from the f-2 or F-0 block so I am wondering if I run the F-0 block and put a .030 Washer under the F block to make the arms lean forward? Is this Correct and was this what you were talking about?
Also when you run the F block in the Rear do you have to run spacers under the F block when using the R+3+2 or R+2+2 blocks? Or do you just run a washer under the F block when you use the R+3-0 or R+2-0?
Thanks
Mike Webb
Quick question that I should have asked you last night at the Track....
When you told me about the -2degree of kickup in the front of the car where you talking about the Front arms leaning Forward? You said you had to cut material from the f-2 or F-0 block so I am wondering if I run the F-0 block and put a .030 Washer under the F block to make the arms lean forward? Is this Correct and was this what you were talking about?
Also when you run the F block in the Rear do you have to run spacers under the F block when using the R+3+2 or R+2+2 blocks? Or do you just run a washer under the F block when you use the R+3-0 or R+2-0?
Thanks
Mike Webb
Last edited by mike_Webb; 01-18-2004 at 06:48 PM.
#7500
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
who here has tried using the losi rear hubs in the tc3? what exactly is being achieved by doing so? i know cyrul used to do this so he could set toe in at the hubs rather than using the arm mounts/holders to get toe. but he also had to eliminate the toe angles at the arms pivots by using an inner F block in the rear. if i still use the arm mounts to achieve toe angle and simply switch to 0-degree losi rear hubs, what changes in handling can i expect? and what ball stud should i use on the hubs, a silver or black stud? thanks in advance.