I have read that going to the #3 piston (as opposed to #2) and thicker oil will create more consistent damping by reducing the oil's tendency to foam. Is this true? If so, what would the "new" oil weights be for the "new" piston rate? i.e. 40w oil and #2 piston would become ?w oil and #3 piston.

-also. do the numbers on the droop gauge correspond with the number of internal limiters that we used to have to use?

Ling > that was hilarious!!!! regarding wsa, i looked on the website as well and could not find anything. I have looked in all the rc magazines and on the web, NOTHING!!! No wonder no one drives schumacher.

Tony > glad you found this to. I think you know who i am, i saw you at the hitec race and you helped with setting my diferential. I usually see you and Brad and SoCal as well.

Talk to you all soon...

Well foaming is a moot point if you fill you get all the bubles out when your building the shocks.

I dont know about the droop gauge thing, but I doubt it.

I'm not sure where I read it. It may have been at the Associated site. The foaming reason was only one of about three. Just so happens that I can't remember the other two. I figured that the foaming would not be an issue if the shocks were built correctly, but yet it was still a reason so I thought I'd ask.

Johnny - you know, I also tried swapping different pistons. Maybe it's just me, but I hardly noticed any difference in handling. Perhaps othere have experience otherwise.


To All:
I tried the R+2+2 block in place of the F+2 block in front to toe out the front hinge pins (copied the XXX-S design). I may be imagining things, but I swear I got more steering coming out of corners.

LINGER-
that would leave the F-0 for the rear. have you tried both changes? i'm on carpet and the 3* of toe in the rear may be causing some drag. am i correct in thinking that the F-0 in the rear would leave the anti squat @ 2 and 0* toe in?
-as for shocks, i guess i'll stick with #2 piston so i can use a "normal" range of oil weights. do they make 120w oil anyways?

linger you are amagining things. I do not see how it would do that.

i'm thinking that the arm toe may create a kind of a stronger anti-squat condition and make the tires bite more. like how traction bars on hotrods leverage the body to effectively "push" the tires to the pavement. physics ya know, it can be funny sometimes.

ahh, I see.

Ling...it will give you more steering....BUT!!!!!

the way our suspension is set up, it gives a negative in the roll center...bad news!!! We tried this awhile back and it seemed pretty good...on the track we ran on. When the layout changed, the car went to sh*t, and we couldn't figure out why. We talked to the engineer (Torrance) and he said it sent the front of the car below the imaginary roll center. Oops...

I think Brad my still be running it, but, in mod, it sucks!!!! heh heh

that actualy makes total sense. It is like the car is braking the whole time throwing everyting forward and tilting the car downward and forward. Not good. It give it great steering but when you mash the throttle its doughnut time.

Does anyone have a fix for the front swaybar?

Let me explain:

I have a FT TC3, and the screws that hold the front swaybar in are just too small because the front swaybar keeps popping out of the channel. It doesn't look like I can put bigger screws in there because of how close the diff case is.

Any help?

Thanks

kansasracer: try using some washers under the screws. If you need to, snip off some of the washer to allow room to clear the bulkhead.

JOHNNY RACER - ever since I switched to a 1-way, I've been sticking to standard 2 or 3 deg or rear toe. Using the f-0 in the rear should give you 0 toe and 0 kick-up. When I ran 4wd, I liked the added steering of 0 or 1 deg rear toe.

ToeKnee - two questions:
When are you gonna run that Nitro car?
When are you gonna let me borrow it?

Kansas racer- use worn out thrust washers from the diff with the screws. You shouldn't have any probs.