Re: wyd
 

Well you never know. Check the 1/12th scale thread. He is in that thread some.

Mab-

Try a longer or higher camber link. Inside upper hole on the tower, and outside on the hub. Or try leaning the shocks in one hole on the rear. (makes them a bit softer initially)

Solutions...
Rebuild the shocks, and make sure they have equal lengths. Make the droop the same left to right(front and rear can be different for different setups). Make sure the springs have equal tension(ie. color weight the same)(again, left to right, front to rear can differ). Check tires for akward wear patterns. Drop the car onto a Tweak Station to make sure the car is flat. After all of this, run the car and if it still torque steers, take out some droop on the left rear arm. Take out the droop until the car launches straight.

For anyone interested
 

The URL of my website has changed....again! You can now find it @ http://www.mistercrash.ca

What I would do, is reduce the rear anti squat to give more on-power rear traction, or add some rear toe for off-power rear traction(R-2-0, or R-3+2)
Are you measuring the droop by height off a flat surface to the outside of the arm? Or are you using the ae Droop gauge?(pretty sure it is the height, but not 100%)

If you were to add more anti squat, then the car would have more steering exiting corners, because it changes the angle of the arm. Thus making the suspension feel stiffer.

If you were to increase the front shock oil by 5wt, then it might upset how the car enters corners and give you less steering. From what I read, you want more REAR traction, so I would stick to rear-end adjustments.

Thicker oil up front will make the car react quicker to steering input. More turn in.

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone knew of someone who could machine down a front bumper and arm mounts so that that the car has a lower roll center. Please email me [email protected] thanks!

Thanks guys. Now i have some stuff to churn around in my brain.


Brian: Its on power, exiting the corner (most notably coming out of the front sweeper and into the chicane right in front of the drivers stand. If i get on the throttle a little to early/hard it takes me about 3-4 inches off my line and into that island.)

Pitcrew: My shocks are already all the way in, ive never messed with camber link positions, but that may be the easiest thing to test. Any noticable differences between longer vs. higher? Ie going high outside on the block and the shock tower vs moving the mounting position in the block out forther only? or will doing both longer and higher net the best results?

Bubblestc3: I ment to say reduce, thanks. Im so used to running the -2 degree toe i completely forgot that the 3 degree would give me more traction through the corner and help with the steering. Thanks. Ill give the 3+2, 2+0 and the 3+0 a try (in that order of course). I set my droop with a flat surface, the gauge would be a lot easier though (add it to the ever increasing list of cool crap i need :lol: )

Im under the impression that increasing the front oil by 5#'s will make the steering more responsive (less side to side motion), but lose a little traction because less weight is transfered forward. If it dials in the rear there are still lots of ways for me to get more steering. Im good at that, its getting the rear to be just perfect that is proving to be more elusive.

Thanks a lot to everyone...please feel free to offer more tips and insights.

mab: I missed the start of your posting however, lean your shocks out! If you can drive your car with your shocks leaned stood up then you can drive a fast car. Also have u tried an alfa body? And 7mm's is way to much rear droop, you are trying to get steering from places where it shouldnt come from, lol. Also on carpet, there is nothing like 6 degree blocks! I have yet to see a fast TC3 on carpet without 6 degree blocks in the past year or so. Also if you are running on carpet I would stick with an F-0 front block.

Camber links will adjust your reactive camber. The longer the link the less camber change and thus the more grip. Its actually kinda odd because i am pretty sure for full scale racing its the opposite, and it makes more sense too... lol. Not sure on moving up or down there.

And the tweak stand isnt really that useful. For a tc3, you should tweak your car on the track and always run the same size tires left to right, lol. None of the factory drivers that I know really use a tweak stand.

Has anybody else tried using the lower-inner hole for the camber link on the rear tower? I tried this at the club race the week before our two day race and had very good luck, it seemed to free the car up a lot and take away the slight push I had.

I have 2 degrees rear toe, all shocks in middle hole on tower, rear is outer on arm and front is inner, front tower on front, 2 deg. total castor (0 kick up 2 castor), 1.5 deg. camber, 0 toe, yellow springs front/60wt, purple springs rear/50wt, no antisquat, standard sway bars front and rear, 5mm droop front and 4mm rear, plaid front, dbl pink rear, custom made front hubs imitating the Dumas part with the extra hole further back, and batteries forward. Also was using the Proto Alfa 2.0 with the large wing size.

At the two-day race other people's cars were inconsistent but mine stayed excellent throughout the weekend. I could adjust the amount of steering easily by just altering my dual rate setting, or using more or less paragon on the front tires.

One question: what would be a good set of bearings? I have the standard ones still, but a few are starting to go and I’d like to install a better set in the car. Are ceramics worth it, or just good quality steel bearings?

Josh,

I went from the upper inner holes all around to the lower inner and yeah, it seemed to free up the car in the corners, was more consistent..and faster!

I'd just get some more teflon sealed ones, like from Acer. $30 you can't beat that. A couple people I know have just run the teflons with the stock grease in there and after a few race weekends the driveline is really free even with the grease. You could get ceramics and have a super-free drivetrain, but I hear that they're quite fragile and a hit can blow the bearings pretty easily.

That's cool, I'll have to try dropping the link in the front also. I think we did that with the older yok's too, and it worked well.

$100+ is alot for bearings that might shatter.

Thanks,
Josh

JasonC.,
Hey, did you get the handling back on your TC3?(do you need help:D ?)
Are you coming to SoCal tomorow?
And, if you do come, are you going to race?

Ok, I am not making any promis's, but I am THINKING of running 19t tomorow... You interested?

Speedo...the new style ceramic bearings will not shatter...The only thing harder than the ceramic balls are a diamond. That is what is used to shape and polish the balls. This is the reason the ceramic bearings are so expensive. The very first ones that came out 2 or 3 years ago would shatter...they were a very low grade. I have been running a set since the snowbirds last year and they still spin smoother and longer than ANY steel bearing I have ever had!!

ea

Thanks for the info, maybe some ceramic bearings are in order. Do you care for them like you would steel bearings, or can you just leave them alone?