ok, ill try them tomorow at socal. i used them on the front for one run, one of them broke and i lost a $11 out-drive, but you have to buy them in pairs, so that is accually $22, and i broke a composite cvd $2.50...

but what ever works for you:tire: :tire: :tire:

so what setups are you guys running?

i am running my own but i want to try a new setup, and see if the car will still work.

i and running some losi parts on it also.

I thought that you did not want to race anymore...

Composite CVDs
 

Use composite CVDs and save your money for Tamiya shocks!

I think I broke those 2 for you, Dave!

Re: SHIMING
 

Bubbles: Bend em back?! :lol:

Boomer: You make a good point. It isnt necessarily what is better, but what serves the purpose with reasonable ease to the pocketbook! ( I say pocketbook and not wallet... cause every married man knows he has to ask "momma" if he can spend his own cash!) LOL The composites that i had broken were at the pin near the hub too... and didnt break anything along with it.

Proficar403: ARUN! :lol: Man we definitely had some crashes out at Hurricane! Cold asphalt+ moist air/track+ modified= WHEEEE! I heard you came back here for the trophy race?! (Jesse told me you were...) Did you go back to school... or are ya here for a while? We are running TC again the 19th at HTUSA... and dirt on the 18th. Ill be there for both and wondered if you were gonna be there?! :cool:
- Dave

No, still at UGA now. I was home for the weekend. They are all lucky it got rained out!:D I have been putting up some very decent finishes at TFB. I even got to race an A-main with Barry Baker. We are going to move indoors for carpet pretty soon. You NEED to come here and race! I might end up going to the Snowbirds this year. Are you going there again?

Berger:

I too run on tight, technical carpet tracks. I use the Aluminium CVD's even though they cost more and are heavier. Why? Because the composite bones always seem to wear out where the pins go through the joint. On larger tracks, I guess this wouldn't happen as often - but when you go from lock to lock around tight hairpins etc, it puts alot of stress on the bones and the pins pull through. I have never broken or worn out my Aluminum CVDs after 2 seasons with my TC3. In comparison, I went through a set of Composites per meeting:eek: For me, they were a false economy and didn't look as nice either ;o)

As for running Modifieds on tight indoor tracks - why? You were right to propose a stock class. Control tyres certainly sorts the men from the boys too - you can concentrate on racing and other aspects of the sport rather than just going through endless combinations of tyres and inserts. During our open practices, I frequently tried out some of my mod motors against racers that were using Stock. The only part of the track where my car was quicker was on the straight. The stock motors were able to put the power down far better and were putting in quicker times as a result. Lower wind Mod motors (including 12t) just don't get a chance to unwind. I'm a fan of the 19t spec Super Stock motors, which I believe can work very well indoors, even on very tight circuits. I've found on our track, where 30 laps is quite normal with a Reedy MVP, I can improve my times by about 4 tenths of a second per lap with an Orion Element Super Stock motor (with stand up brushes). As an added bonus, the 19 spec motor comes off the track cooler too. Keep up the pressure - they'll come to there senses - there's always next years AGM:nod:

Juniors racing 12 turn motors indoors - nasty!! I bet the local model shop is doing well though:lol:

Hehe you bet the hobby shop does good, its trackside and i race for em so i get my tc3 spares a bit cheaper. The car i run is basically a stock kit running Jaco trued and glued blues and a trinity rev monster. This is the same as what ive run at more competitive meetings in the stock class and its performed well. Im faster through the inner field as i can get a real tight line, then just loose some time on the back straights, just have to try and block em off like Michael S did to his brother yesturday on the main straight. :sneaky:

Speaking of cvds, what do you guys think of the blue tobee cvds. They are half the price of the associated ones and look a tad bit beefier, anybody here use em?

Berger:

The TC3 I ran was hopped up from racer spec to factory team spec over one season. Coming from off road, I wasn't too sure if I'd get on with touring cars, thus the racer spec initial purchase! To say i was 'pleasantly surprised' would be a massive understatement!! I did a couple of little mods specifically to improve performance indoors on carpet running control tyres (Schumacher carpet dragons). These tyres last forever (keeping the cost of racing down) BUT they don't offer much traction!! We've had guys coming from other clubs visiting and wondering how the hell we manage with Dragons!! ;-D

Lets just say that running a control tyre and stock motors just eliminates those 'cheque book racers' and brings the emphasis squarely back to driver skill and set-up ability.

Our juniors crash alot too - but as the speeds are lower, breakages are fairly rare.

I have some carpet dragons that a ran for a while, couldnt really keep the corner speeds and therefore lost out compared to everyone else. Its a shame i dont live closer to the better tracks, we share we a lesuire center and the tracks made from wooden sections which we can slot together, the permenant tarmac and carpet tracks about 40mins away.

tobee?

are they light blue?(lighter than the ae blue aluminium ones)(almost purple)

This probably sounds ignorant but does it matter in what order your electronics go in the TC3? I was test fitting a few things and I dont know if I should put the receiver in front of the ESC or behind it. also, what is a good start for shock oil. this thing is gonna get a few shakedown runs outside but my first racde will probably be indoors so suggestions would be appreciated