Yep! This sport sure gives you alot to do. Just one thing though - why were you adjusting the throttle trim when you noticed the car pulling to the left?

horatio the hole i am refering to is an extra shock mounting point not the hole for the droop screw i think they dont produce that anymore since about 2 years ago there is another version with droop screw and 2 shock holes!

Version 1 arms don't have droop screw holes though do they? Version 2 arms I thought come with the extra shock position and a droop screw hole.

Or have I got this wrong?:blush:

speedxl:

U R quite right - there are 3 versions of the arms!!

Sorry mate!!!

On my oldest TC3, the arms have no droop screws and only 1 shock position. I thought this was version 1 arm!

Yeah thats right i think

Actually i think there are 3 versions, first batch of arms had no droop and only one mounting hole, the second version had droop holes and still only one mounting hole, and the updated version had droop holes and two mounting positions.

Just checked my pit box and yeah, ive got one with one hole and no droop, one with a hole and droop, and on my car atm ive got two holes and droop.

ROOKIE: I have had friends of mine have problems with the digital FET servos. (mainly in nitro 1/8th scale offroad) The potentiometer inside is controlled by a field effect transitor (FET) for more accuracy and power... in cases of hard impacts, common in a TC3... the potentiometer can go bad and never center, causing the car to wander. This may be the more technical side of your problem. Sending it to the manufacturer is the only solution. There are quite a few other fixes mentioned on here that are worth a look see... try this too... if your nuts for holding the steering rack in place are the big black plastic ones that come with the kit, and you tighten them too much... even just a smidge.. it will make the servo work hard to center... no matter what servo you have. You can tell by hearing the servo buzzing all the time when at center... and the chassis is off of the ground... tires in the air. I personally use the T3 steering bearings (4 of them) in my TC3 rack. They are the same size as the ASC TC3 bearings, but flanged to replace the washers on the bottom and top of the rack. I use a Trinity motor shim kit to space the bearings just right to have minimal slop, and totally free movement of the rack with no binding. I also use the ASC small pattern 4-40 aluminum locknuts to hold it all in place... they just press against the inner race of the bearing... and cause no drag on the outer part of the bearing. (you can also adjust bump steer by adding washers under the lower bearing to raise/lower the rack as a fine adjustment) I agree the bearings can get gritty and require more maintenance... but blowing off the car with an air compressor, available at most tracks, will help aid in their longevity. I have used the same set since the car came out years ago... but i do quite a bit of maintenance to my car. If you are interested, lemme know, ill post pics for more detail tomorrow. I have to get into bed for work tonight.... SEE YA! :o
-Dave

The flanged bearings are a great idea, Dave. Do you have any pics?

I didn't mention the servo, yet, because I just wanted to get the "duh" things out of the way first - I've usually found that this problem is usually because of nuts too tight, dirt "crap" in the rack, stuff like that.

easy to check, and then go for the expensive fix! :D

settup for tc3
 

what kind of settup should i run at Trackside with a tc3 with
rubber tires? I have not ran their with rubber yet.

Try Barry Baker's US Touring Car Championship setup (2002) on the AE site.

Here's what I used for rubbers, and my car was dialed:

Protoform Alfa Romeo 2 body (but any body should work good with this setup)

Front suspension:
Shocks stood up all the way
Lower mounting hole in version 1 arm position
Associated Red springs
40 wt oil
#2 pistons
1º toe out
-2º camber
Take-off 27 tires
Inner ball stud in the upper inner hole
Battary located up front

Rear suspension:
Upper shock mount in middle hole
Lower mounting hole in version 1 arm position
Associated red springs
40 wt. oil
#2 piston
2º toe in
-2º camber
take off 27 tires
Outer ball stud in upper hole
Inner ball studs in the upper inner holes


This set-up works great, its the best set-up I've ever driven with my tc3. And if you want to run foams all you have to do to is is change the oil to a heavier oil and put harder springs on it. Thats what I did and it worked great.

just some food for thought...

when i started to use the rear tower up front i noticed a large ammount of push(through out the middle of the corner), then i corrected this by running the battery up front, so bassically when you run the rear tower it stiffens the shocks by the way that they are angled. it creates an agressive enter to the corner and an overall push for the whole corner, thus running a softer suspension would also make this work well up front.

i have been using the rear tower for about 9-10 months, and it works great

Sorry about that, I mean steering, had a brain fart, just be glad you weren't here to smell it:sneaky:

DaveW....I love you right about now.....I think that was my problem:sweat: