65LikesTC3 Forum
11-14-2001, 07:55 PM
#421
Tech Rookie
Originally posted by spawn
140wt shock oil is like slime you get in the toy stores... I think its too thick too, will go back to 40wt. The rebound is just too slow and it takes much more to absorb shocks. Then again, it runs well without fishtail at nearly full throttle on smooth asphalt... now almost hard as a rock.
How fast should the shock rebound and how much strength is needed to push in the shocks?... I know its technical... just wanted to know if anyone has any details.... just how much is too much... BTW I am using shock piston #2 with standard setup and running stock motor....
140wt shock oil is like slime you get in the toy stores... I think its too thick too, will go back to 40wt. The rebound is just too slow and it takes much more to absorb shocks. Then again, it runs well without fishtail at nearly full throttle on smooth asphalt... now almost hard as a rock.
How fast should the shock rebound and how much strength is needed to push in the shocks?... I know its technical... just wanted to know if anyone has any details.... just how much is too much... BTW I am using shock piston #2 with standard setup and running stock motor....
that way the shock would have less "pack"/
hope that helps.
11-17-2001, 05:20 AM
#422
Tech Adept
I need to replace my wheel hub bearings but I don't fancy buying the AE bearing kit as it is way too expensive.
Do the teflon bearings make such a huge difference considering I would normaly remove the inner shield and replace the grease with light bearing oil.
Would it be better to use metal shielded bearings or plastic?
Any thoughts welcome.
Yorkie
Do the teflon bearings make such a huge difference considering I would normaly remove the inner shield and replace the grease with light bearing oil.
Would it be better to use metal shielded bearings or plastic?
Any thoughts welcome.
Yorkie
11-17-2001, 07:07 AM
#423
Tech Rookie
metal shield bearings have the least protection against dirts, so they are best for differential.
if i were you , i'd go with teflon shield ones.
call boca bearing, they got so many types of bearings.
if i were you , i'd go with teflon shield ones.
call boca bearing, they got so many types of bearings.
11-19-2001, 12:42 PM
#424
What is the effect of laying the shocks down. I understand that it will effectively "soften" the spring rate a little, but wouldn't that be the same as changing the spring to a softer one? how does it change the dampening characteristics?
11-19-2001, 01:43 PM
#426
thanks-
am i corrrect in assuming that the more the car is allowed to squat, the less on power steering there will be?
am i corrrect in assuming that the more the car is allowed to squat, the less on power steering there will be?
11-19-2001, 07:41 PM
#428
UNDERSTEER
guys,
already fixed my car but it seems that has now an understeer problem. before i had oversteer so i tried softer springs at the back and stiffened the front a little bit (blue back and gold front). i still have the standard factory settings with sorex 36r tires with medium inserts. we run on bumpy asphalt tracks.
also, does the ride height have an effect on my problem?
guys,
already fixed my car but it seems that has now an understeer problem. before i had oversteer so i tried softer springs at the back and stiffened the front a little bit (blue back and gold front). i still have the standard factory settings with sorex 36r tires with medium inserts. we run on bumpy asphalt tracks.
also, does the ride height have an effect on my problem?
11-19-2001, 08:15 PM
#430
ernestf : thanks!!! all are factory standard settings. does this mean that if i lower the front ride height, this will correct the understeer problem? thanks again.
11-19-2001, 10:39 PM
#432
TP : middle of the corners. help please because we have a race this weekend. thanks!!!
11-20-2001, 07:22 AM
#433
Ok, well, you say that you have the 'standard' setting, which, I'm assuming, is the stock setup, and not the worlds. You can try moving the camber links to the upper inner holes (f & r). You can also try laying the front shocks down one hole.
If you are feeling really sassy, try a F-0 block on the front. This will make steering a bit more aggressive and should give you more steering through the entire corner...
Hope this helps!
If you are feeling really sassy, try a F-0 block on the front. This will make steering a bit more aggressive and should give you more steering through the entire corner...
Hope this helps!
11-20-2001, 07:56 AM
#434
Tphalen, what do you think about stiff wheels? We tested it this weekend and got more steering and better cornerspeed.
11-20-2001, 09:02 AM
#435
Loose throughout turns
Okay. Here's a recent problem that has developed with my TC3.
When I am turning (usually comingo ut of turns is where I notice it the most) the rear end wants to come around.
Here is how the car is set up (smooth asphalt track, medium traction):
front:
0 toe in
1 deg neg. camber
camber link top inside hole
gold springs, 5mm preload
40wt oil
top of shock in middle hole
4mm ride height
back:
stock toe in block
1 deg neg camber
camber link top inside hole, outer hole on hub carrier
silver springs, 5mm preload
40wt oil
top of shock in middle hole
4mm ride height
2400 batteries, stock motor
Using Sorex 24R tires w/ HPI red inserts all the way around (which usually works well at this track)
I first tried just getting on the throttle easier, but I was getting smoked out of the turns.
The above setup was what I started with. I changed the following to try to fix the problem (tried one at a time):
1. put top of rear shocks in outer hole
2. added preload to front shocks
3. changed oil to 45wt in front
When I finally got the car to keep the rear end in place, it pushed so much I couldn't get it to turn in. I went back to the setup listed above so I can start making changes again (hopefully the correct ones this time). Any suggestions?
When I am turning (usually comingo ut of turns is where I notice it the most) the rear end wants to come around.
Here is how the car is set up (smooth asphalt track, medium traction):
front:
0 toe in
1 deg neg. camber
camber link top inside hole
gold springs, 5mm preload
40wt oil
top of shock in middle hole
4mm ride height
back:
stock toe in block
1 deg neg camber
camber link top inside hole, outer hole on hub carrier
silver springs, 5mm preload
40wt oil
top of shock in middle hole
4mm ride height
2400 batteries, stock motor
Using Sorex 24R tires w/ HPI red inserts all the way around (which usually works well at this track)
I first tried just getting on the throttle easier, but I was getting smoked out of the turns.
The above setup was what I started with. I changed the following to try to fix the problem (tried one at a time):
1. put top of rear shocks in outer hole
2. added preload to front shocks
3. changed oil to 45wt in front
When I finally got the car to keep the rear end in place, it pushed so much I couldn't get it to turn in. I went back to the setup listed above so I can start making changes again (hopefully the correct ones this time). Any suggestions?