TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

The surface is parking lot asphalt, no preping except it gets blown off before we run...

Thanks for the info, going to digest it for a while

obnosterous

Hey Boomer,

Thanks for trying to help here.

Well I started with the RTR and I raced my buddies older street weapon. From there, I had more acceleration and top end because he was only running top end stock motors, but he still would win because he could turn a much sharper radius under speed and keep to the inside and pass. I just could not keep my car inside, unless of course I slowed down, but it was pitiful watching him pass on the outside or we would hit because I tried to increase speed and just ended up floating out. I was being gentle on the throttle and tried to find the point where the fronts lost traction, as to not oversteer. He uses an odd turning technique--he pulses the steering from almost max turn to neutral, but it works for him. I drove his car, from top speed if you slowly turn in, it will eventually oversteer and spin.

Then he got a 2nd car off ebay with an Orion 13x2 and that was it, I was toast, but he stripped the belt or something. So I prepared and bought the racer kit with the TC2 and Trisonic 10x2. I brought my car out for fun and put about 40 packs on the Trisonic--only cleaning and oiling the bearings after each race day (~5 packs).

Then he finally got hooked up and we took the mods out for a drag. I got slammed--but of course my motor was not up to par and needed the com turned and new brushes...So a brand new P-94 10x2 otta even it out. NOT! I couldn't believe his worn out 3 belt StreetWeapon with an Orion 13x2 still smoked my TC3 with that P-94. My com was black the first run. It's a dud motor, thats what set me off.

The surface is new asphalt, somewhat porus, but very flat and smooth. I can understand the power and control issues, but I am looking for more steering. My cars push at speed. The lot is huge, so I have lots of room to get up to speed and slowly turn in, but it just wont turn very well.

I should say we are just running a big oval (more circular) for now and we go left, then right for a while. Its for the sidexside action, so we (he) waits for me alot.

The setup is mainly stock, I mean the RTR is as it came and I think the adjustments are the same for both cars now:

1* camber and toe out
Gold (or copper? stock anyway) front springs and silver rears.
40wt oil and the recomended piston (#2?)
Ive changed the droop all around, so forgot where it is now.
The mod setup has the optional front castor blocks(4*?) and 2* rear toe 0* kickup. I just put the optional parts on, but noticed much less than expected as far as steering.
Battery has been tried in front or rear.
Vrage and Fury tires--considered the HPI 30mm M compound treaded, but got the 26mm--even worse. Thinking Sorex 36s, but the tires wear so fast we will probably choose a cheeper one, like Yoks firm are $8/pair

Ive just about spent all my money, so a 1way is not likely, besides we do eventually intend to setup a nice tight circuit with long straights and hairpins, so I want good breaking. Thats after we get our cars evened out for a driving competition, not car vs. car. I should have the advantage anyway. We are setting up an open motor mod class and a 19T mild mod or stock class.

I am going to fix up my TriSonic and if I loose the drag with that, well work on slowing his car down, but thats rediculous. The rest is just getting more steering. Ill probably have to put some softies up front and run hard in the back, but I also expect to be able to get a better balance with 4 corner symetry (tires I mean).

OK, Ill shove a cork in it now.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

The cool thing with the TC3 is you endless setup options.

picco007

iTrader: (99)

Hey guys I need some advice. I was doing some tuning and I started with my ride height and I noticed that the rear was totally different from left to right. The left rear was 3.5 and the right rear was 4.5. I checked my hinge pins, and they were straight. So I turned the left rear shock collar down to make the car the same ride height on both sides. Now the left rear collar is way lower than the right rear shock collar. What did I do wrong? Please help. Is it a teak problem or is that normal.

TRF414M

are you sure your chassis isn't tweaked.

TRF414M

Gold Spring is just too stiff for the front.

Use softer (Blue) Spring for the front and take out the sway bars.

Another reason why the car push is because TC3 is a very stiff car. The only major thing that make the car go into the turn rely mainly on the suspension setup since everything in the car is hard as brick. Japanese car are mainly graphite plate car with lots of flex. This will the car negoitate into the turn.

Hope this will help you out

picco007

iTrader: (99)

I've taken the car apart and laid the chasis on a table and the chasis isn't tweaked. I noticed that some of the other tc3's have the same shock issue as I do. I think it is a weight distribution thing and i just don't know how to take care of it.

Craig

I have had the same problems with the spring adjusters not being even.But when i put the car on scales its close so I don't worry about it.Just drive it and see what it does.

Boomer

He's running a fairly high powered mod, with very very soft springs in the rear and he's "mashing" the throttle. All the weight will be moving to the rear, leaving nothing at the front. That's very likely why he's pushing.

Isn't TRF414 a Tamiya car?

obnosterous

The rear does feel a lot stiffer than the front, but I need to get some springs anyway. I forgot to mention that I mounted the shocks on the inner top hole (front) and outer top hole (rear). OK, blue and--Ill just get a set from Tower. Cant find it now, I might have seen a set for some other car.

I also set the rear up 2mm higher than the front, which is at 4mm.

I tried the Vrage on the rear paired with RageFuries on the front. OK, I could not control that, it would hold the turn after I let off the steering and any correction would really get it squirly. I am guessing the stock Vrage are the harder compound and I bought the softer compound RageFuries. These are all just about dust anyway, so Ill have to try out those yokomo beltec 5G 24-48-8 slicks I got.

Now "mashing" the throttle to do doughnuts was just an illustration, that it wont do them to the right. And it turns better to the left. I was considering torque steer as a culprit, but probably more related to the heavy battery on the left. Also, weight transfer should not be that critical--on our track we are basically running near top speed the whole time, its a big oval. So its basically full throttle and let off a bit going into the turn and roll it back on comming out--nice, slow and smooth throttle action there.

Now I find out he has 1-ways.

No sway bars?

Maybe tires is the answer, but I gotta find a way to keep that car on the inside. I am also considering spraying some coke out there, but that will help the other guy out too.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Check your left and right side weights of the car. One side the car maybe more than the other. I was always under the impression that you would want a 50/50 distribution from right to left. If you don't have this then you could explain your problem. Also make sure you shocks are built so that they are the same length. If you mentioned that already sorry I didn't see it.

I wish all manufacturers would put dimples in the bottom of the chassis so you could do this with something as simple as a golf tee. I know X-Ray does this.

rangulo

picco
In my experience I have to say you need to back up and look at what your working with. I would start by checking the springs and shocks off of the chassis.

First measure to see if the springs are of the same type. I have been racing cars for a few years and I own different springs for all the different cars I have had in the past. I once used a set of tc3 white springs that are 40 lbs. and corally whites that are like 20 lbs. I used 3 tc3 springs and 1 corally. I was going crazy looking at my car setup to see why I was turning right different than to the left. I was simply over looking the fact that they got mixed up in my box and until I really looked at the springs that I realized the car was tweaked because I over looked something.

If your shocks are off the car and you set the droop to 6 front and 4 rear you know the chassis is ready. When you build your shocks you have to make sure the fronts shocks rebound the same and the rears rebound the same. The length of the shocks are not as critical because you have droop screws. I try to get the shocks to rebound out about 8-10 mm.

I also try to match my springs. For instance if I used silver springs all the way around. I measured the length of the springs so they sit on the car more equally. That way you dont have to much difference between shock collars. I run 4 mm of ride height in front and 5mm in rear. I only use blue, silver, gold, red. The rest of the springs are to stiff and sould be left for foam carpet racing.

I would say to check all your settings because it really does matter!!

Good luck

tad

I am considering buying the Racer kit as a second car, and am wondering about the durability of the composite cvd's. Do the composite shocks have threaded bodies, or do they have clips or the adjustable sliding clamp?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

obnosterous

I have raced my TC3 and thrashed it quite a bit. I have hit large speed bumps and gone flying and cartwheeling. I have not broken anything.

I think most of the aluminum stuff is not really necessary. I like the composite shocks just fine. Some racers like them better because it is easier and quicker to make more exact preload adjustments with the clip on spacers (no sliding collor or threads).

Boomer

tad - The comp shocks come with clips. I don't like them, except as a backup measure. It is far easier to adjust preload with threads than clips - also far more precise. You never run out of threads. . .

I used composit CVD's quite a bit in stock - they work quite well. One nice thing with them is that if they break, and you're using a one-way, you won't lose the outdrive, which you would do if you broke an alum CVD. . .been there, done that.

They're lighter than alum or steel, so less rotating mass meaning somewhat quicker acceleration.