I'm not sure. . .I have tightened my spare diff down as tight as I can get it without breaking it and it still "diffs" and is still smooth (I pride myself on my smooth diffs. . .gotta have SOMETHING I'm good at. . . ) but I haven't checked its action in the car yet. . .

I will let you know.

You should be able to crank it down enough to almost lock it. It'll be pretty tight.

You can also try some thick grease in the front, too.

I wouldn't suggest (as others have) supergluing it. We've found if you hit something (curb, board, another car) sometimes one side of the diff will 'break loose' and then you'll have 1/2 diff action. If you want to lock on completely, try JB Weld on a steel diff. That should work. Or, I guess, you could just pin the entire diff, if you have the right tools.

Wild Cherry: thanks, ive actually applied the losi grease on the diff and iput gears. but i dint think of doing the same on the dog and drive shaft pins - will do that as well. actually, after the re shimming exercise, i ran the car infront of my house just to see if i got improvements. fortunately everything seems ok now. thanks for the tip nonetheless.

guys, i'll try the locked front diff this weekend and let you guys know how things work out with it. feedback from your end would be great too. im looking forward to making my tc3 rock the tracks! ive had a lot of sucess with my xxxs and im sure the tc3 will not disappoint. ive recently grown fond of american kits as opposed to the japanese one's i previously owned (yokes, hpis).

But does'nt thew locked diff break? The thrust screw?

Roborat.
You may want to try this. Clean all the grease off the gears and put some dry graphite lube on them this will not only quite the gears down it will break them in the the mesh feels alittle better.
this has been my experience with it I have been running it this way with no ill effects for one full season.

Question maybe someone will have some insight. I have done a modification and have yet to see what it does. I was playing around with some parts and came up with a new type of swaybar mount. I wish I had some pitures to post. what I did was cut a peice of carbon fiver and mounted it on the chassis braces. It's hard to describe but the end result is a sway bar that is mounted like the yok's and tamiya cars. looks trick but will it offer any difference in performance any insight? tony?

thanks
randyb

I just got the IRC carbon fiber chassis, it is tight. The car weighs a lot less, and looks sharp

I have also thought of using graphite dry luve on the gears of the tc3. But I thought the graphite could work its way into the diff. Have you had anytrouble with your diff holding up between rebuilds.

I have not had a problem this entire summer race season and I race nearly every weekend. I think it you just dont blaintently put it in the diff you should be ok. I have had no problems with the diffs still are silky smooth. I think this stuff is the best to use ther is no drag caused from it and it helps the gears mesh better.

I just posted Juho Levänen's setup from the euros on my website.

something i came accross at trinity tech talk from Josh Cyrul's thread .....

"Locked front diff - less steering, easier to drive but acts the same as a one-way when you are on power - just has brakes and isn't as out of control as a one-way is. They are making a solid diff for the car - Don't just smash your diff down. The gear will bolt onto the solid diff like the gear bolts on the one-way.. "

hope that sheds some light on the matter. and maybe Baker was referring to a prototype or fabricated solid diff in the Reedy and Nats rather than simply cranking down the diff bolt....

yeah you could prety much build your own by drilling hols through the outdrive and then bolting the unit together. however you would have to eith drill through the metal rings or use some sort of other spacer in the middle. then again maybe you could just shim the unit between the bearing and outdrives.
hmmm

Hi Guys, I trying to increase steering by putting the rear shock in front gear box. I have the new front A-arm with the 2nd outer hole. The problem is that when the shocks are mounted in the outer hole with the middle hole position on the shock tower, the shocks are rubbing against the caster block. I using the 0 degree caster. Will the -1 degree help eliminate this or putting spacers in between the shock mounts?

Also, are you guys running with the sway-bars in front and rear? I like to try this setup on a non prep/spray surface.

Okay, I ran it this evening with the front diff locked and Baker's Reedy Race setup (for the most part. . .)

Before I go any farther, let me just say - OOOOOOOOOOOh my. . .was it hooked UP.

I tightened the diff as far as it would go without damaging the diff too much (probably flat spotted the balls and prolly screwed up the rings, but I'd be replacing those anyway, so who cares? ) and it was about 95% locked. You had to really TRY to turn the diff to get it to turn.

I had to cut the front springs just a tad to get the ride height down to ~4-5mm, but that wasn't a big deal. Rear shock tower on the front, yada yada yada.

So, I get the modifications done and take the car out. IMMEDIATE stability and controllability. I had the wrong profile on my M8 (dummy!) and it was STILL perfectly handling.

I had Mark Anton drive it to get his opinion and he said that it was like a one-way on power, extremely stable off-power and very easy to drive, and he doesn't like TC-3's.

I found that, unlike a one-way which wants only a single line, the car could run a range of different lines, from diving deep into the turn, braking and pivoting and then jetting out, to swooping like it had a one-way in it. I was able to block like crazy (and I had to - motor was crap and I blew a bat pack, power supply popped on me) and still run consistently.

I love this setup!

Ran for the first time in 3 months......didnt try the rear tower on the front, but i did tighten the front diff a bit, and the car felt much better(ozite,rubber tires)....lets not let the LOSI peeps find out about this......