57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
10-19-2010, 11:26 AM
#5821
IVAN....ROAR is re-doing (re-inspection) the no timing specification and inspection right now, we are planning to submitting the CLUB SPEC, GT2.1 ProSTOCK and GT2.1 EX ESC with no timing software installed for ROAR approval. We are confident enough that our ESC and software are qualified to be LEGAL for the ROAR sportsman class....
We are doing the 2010 I-hobby Expo this week, so everything will be submit sometime next week...and we are hoping the above ESC and software will be legal in NOVEMBER.
We are doing the 2010 I-hobby Expo this week, so everything will be submit sometime next week...and we are hoping the above ESC and software will be legal in NOVEMBER.
Just wondering how long the process usually takes from submission till they post it on their website?
Thanks,
Ivan
10-19-2010, 01:03 PM
#5823
But I am sure they will do the testing just to make sure everyone playing the fair game...
10-19-2010, 02:55 PM
#5824
I would think it will be fast cause they have the Cirtix Club Spec info, and the 508_no_timing software was approved for the GT2 series...we are only providing the newer ESC for them to add their name on the list.
But I am sure they will do the testing just to make sure everyone playing the fair game...
But I am sure they will do the testing just to make sure everyone playing the fair game...
Just asking cause we have our first leg of our regional series race in early November and many members have the Cirtix for the Stock (non-boosted 17.5) and our rules mirror Roar. If they don't approve of it before the race, we may have a problem. Hopefully not.
Ivan
10-20-2010, 09:28 AM
#5825
Thanks again,
Just asking cause we have our first leg of our regional series race in early November and many members have the Cirtix for the Stock (non-boosted 17.5) and our rules mirror Roar. If they don't approve of it before the race, we may have a problem. Hopefully not.
Ivan
Just asking cause we have our first leg of our regional series race in early November and many members have the Cirtix for the Stock (non-boosted 17.5) and our rules mirror Roar. If they don't approve of it before the race, we may have a problem. Hopefully not.
Ivan
Like the USVTA and RCGT...they reference ROAR rule in some portion of them, but not all of them...just a reference.
In some track, they only allow CIRTIX CLUB SPEC ESC only...no other choice, like the EUROPE ETS series...only club spec ESC and SP V3 13.5 motor...no exception. 100% fair with no secret buildin timing or hidden "boost"....
10-20-2010, 02:30 PM
#5826
To be honest....it is all up to the race director. ROAR is only a reference. Unless your track is ROAR member track and under ROAR insurance policy or it is a ROAR event...otherwise, it doesn't matter what ROAR said and you can still run whatever you prefer driver to run.
Like the USVTA and RCGT...they reference ROAR rule in some portion of them, but not all of them...just a reference.
In some track, they only allow CIRTIX CLUB SPEC ESC only...no other choice, like the EUROPE ETS series...only club spec ESC and SP V3 13.5 motor...no exception. 100% fair with no secret buildin timing or hidden "boost"....
Like the USVTA and RCGT...they reference ROAR rule in some portion of them, but not all of them...just a reference.
In some track, they only allow CIRTIX CLUB SPEC ESC only...no other choice, like the EUROPE ETS series...only club spec ESC and SP V3 13.5 motor...no exception. 100% fair with no secret buildin timing or hidden "boost"....
10-21-2010, 09:02 AM
#5827
Hi ive broken the switch on my 2.1 stock spec, is it possible to get a new switch anywhere?
Ive shortened the wire so cant send it back for repair btw.
Ive shortened the wire so cant send it back for repair btw.
10-21-2010, 09:09 AM
#5828
my v3.0 motor came apart during a run last nite! 3 screws backed right out.. dont ask how or why but it survived and race strong the hole nite. During the repair i noticed that the sensor timing adjustment is fairly easy to move even with the 3 motor screws set tight with locktight this time. Should i be able to make on the fly timing adjustments without loosening any screws? OR is it possible something is missing or worn in the endbell.
like is said it race real strong the rest of the night.
like is said it race real strong the rest of the night.
10-21-2010, 12:15 PM
#5829
Thanks again Solara. I’m actually going to use it regardless. No one has ever accused me of cheating.
On another note, our club got brand new CRC carpet about a week ago and we’ve got the track set up and instantly we’ve even got traction. We’ve got an 80 foot straight with medium technical infield I would say. The hot lap of the night was around 8.0 seconds using a tekin 13.5. With my 2.1 prostock with 528 software using a 17.5 SP V3 with 4.75 FDR using Marcos J’s setup I was able to get a low 8.1. I didn’t change the software cause no laptop to change to the 508 no timing software and used the same motor but set #9 to 1 and #12 to 1 (I assume the is the same as no motor timing but no flashing lights) and using an FDR of 3.59 and got a fast lap of 8.4. Very happy with the combo and the motor came off no hotter than 140 F with an awesome SP heat sink and fan.
My question is:
1. My motor timing is in the middle (5 degrees?). Can’t remember which is which but to guess does changing the timing on the motor to 10 degrees increase low end power and setting timing to 0 degrees increases top speed?
2. If I change the timing to 0 degrees to increase the top speed (because current setup seems just a tad slower than the tekin on the straight only), what would I change the pinion to for keeping temps down. This is what I think the no timing setup needs cause the infield is awesome just the straight speed could be quicker. How low and my FDR go?
3. Does setting #9 and #12 to 1 really EXACTLY the same as 508 no timing just without the flashing lights? Then if I were to just put the CIRTIX speedo in this car and use the same motor, would it run exactly the same too?
Any advice is much appreciated,
Ivan
On another note, our club got brand new CRC carpet about a week ago and we’ve got the track set up and instantly we’ve even got traction. We’ve got an 80 foot straight with medium technical infield I would say. The hot lap of the night was around 8.0 seconds using a tekin 13.5. With my 2.1 prostock with 528 software using a 17.5 SP V3 with 4.75 FDR using Marcos J’s setup I was able to get a low 8.1. I didn’t change the software cause no laptop to change to the 508 no timing software and used the same motor but set #9 to 1 and #12 to 1 (I assume the is the same as no motor timing but no flashing lights) and using an FDR of 3.59 and got a fast lap of 8.4. Very happy with the combo and the motor came off no hotter than 140 F with an awesome SP heat sink and fan.
My question is:
1. My motor timing is in the middle (5 degrees?). Can’t remember which is which but to guess does changing the timing on the motor to 10 degrees increase low end power and setting timing to 0 degrees increases top speed?
2. If I change the timing to 0 degrees to increase the top speed (because current setup seems just a tad slower than the tekin on the straight only), what would I change the pinion to for keeping temps down. This is what I think the no timing setup needs cause the infield is awesome just the straight speed could be quicker. How low and my FDR go?
3. Does setting #9 and #12 to 1 really EXACTLY the same as 508 no timing just without the flashing lights? Then if I were to just put the CIRTIX speedo in this car and use the same motor, would it run exactly the same too?
Any advice is much appreciated,
Ivan
10-21-2010, 12:33 PM
#5830
Thanks again Solara. I’m actually going to use it regardless. No one has ever accused me of cheating.
On another note, our club got brand new CRC carpet about a week ago and we’ve got the track set up and instantly we’ve even got traction. We’ve got an 80 foot straight with medium technical infield I would say. The hot lap of the night was around 8.0 seconds using a tekin 13.5. With my 2.1 prostock with 528 software using a 17.5 SP V3 with 4.75 FDR using Marcos J’s setup I was able to get a low 8.1. I didn’t change the software cause no laptop to change to the 508 no timing software and used the same motor but set #9 to 1 and #12 to 1 (I assume the is the same as no motor timing but no flashing lights) and using an FDR of 3.59 and got a fast lap of 8.4. Very happy with the combo and the motor came off no hotter than 140 F with an awesome SP heat sink and fan.
My question is:
1. My motor timing is in the middle (5 degrees?). Can’t remember which is which but to guess does changing the timing on the motor to 10 degrees increase low end power and setting timing to 0 degrees increases top speed?
2. If I change the timing to 0 degrees to increase the top speed (because current setup seems just a tad slower than the tekin on the straight only), what would I change the pinion to for keeping temps down. This is what I think the no timing setup needs cause the infield is awesome just the straight speed could be quicker. How low and my FDR go?
3. Does setting #9 and #12 to 1 really EXACTLY the same as 508 no timing just without the flashing lights? Then if I were to just put the CIRTIX speedo in this car and use the same motor, would it run exactly the same too?
Any advice is much appreciated,
Ivan
On another note, our club got brand new CRC carpet about a week ago and we’ve got the track set up and instantly we’ve even got traction. We’ve got an 80 foot straight with medium technical infield I would say. The hot lap of the night was around 8.0 seconds using a tekin 13.5. With my 2.1 prostock with 528 software using a 17.5 SP V3 with 4.75 FDR using Marcos J’s setup I was able to get a low 8.1. I didn’t change the software cause no laptop to change to the 508 no timing software and used the same motor but set #9 to 1 and #12 to 1 (I assume the is the same as no motor timing but no flashing lights) and using an FDR of 3.59 and got a fast lap of 8.4. Very happy with the combo and the motor came off no hotter than 140 F with an awesome SP heat sink and fan.
My question is:
1. My motor timing is in the middle (5 degrees?). Can’t remember which is which but to guess does changing the timing on the motor to 10 degrees increase low end power and setting timing to 0 degrees increases top speed?
2. If I change the timing to 0 degrees to increase the top speed (because current setup seems just a tad slower than the tekin on the straight only), what would I change the pinion to for keeping temps down. This is what I think the no timing setup needs cause the infield is awesome just the straight speed could be quicker. How low and my FDR go?
3. Does setting #9 and #12 to 1 really EXACTLY the same as 508 no timing just without the flashing lights? Then if I were to just put the CIRTIX speedo in this car and use the same motor, would it run exactly the same too?
Any advice is much appreciated,
Ivan
With the motor timing, don't ever run it retarded from the middle of the slot. Running at the +10 mark will give more RPM and power, with more heat, and less torque.
I do not know if the 528 runs "exactly" the same as the 508, but it sounds like you succeeded in removing the timing advance.
10-21-2010, 12:58 PM
#5831
I would make sure that the Tekin runners at your track have "updated" their software to 212 before making any performance comparisons with your SP...
With the motor timing, don't ever run it retarded from the middle of the slot. Running at the +10 mark will give more RPM and power, with more heat, and less torque.
I do not know if the 528 runs "exactly" the same as the 508, but it sounds like you succeeded in removing the timing advance.
With the motor timing, don't ever run it retarded from the middle of the slot. Running at the +10 mark will give more RPM and power, with more heat, and less torque.
I do not know if the 528 runs "exactly" the same as the 508, but it sounds like you succeeded in removing the timing advance.
Incidentally, we've got 4 (5 soon) members of our club running the Photon and I recommend your website on how to build it to everyone else. Very informative. Your SP motor dissection also looks quite handy as I need to clean mine up sometime considering i must have run it like 3 months now and have never touch it except with the air compressor.
So say I do advance the timing to the +10 mark, with all things being equal, how many teeth should i drop on my pinion on a 64 pitch to test out without toasting my motor?
Ivan
10-21-2010, 01:19 PM
#5832
Thanks,
Incidentally, we've got 4 (5 soon) members of our club running the Photon and I recommend your website on how to build it to everyone else. Very informative. Your SP motor dissection also looks quite handy as I need to clean mine up sometime considering i must have run it like 3 months now and have never touch it except with the air compressor.
So say I do advance the timing to the +10 mark, with all things being equal, how many teeth should i drop on my pinion on a 64 pitch to test out without toasting my motor?
Ivan
Incidentally, we've got 4 (5 soon) members of our club running the Photon and I recommend your website on how to build it to everyone else. Very informative. Your SP motor dissection also looks quite handy as I need to clean mine up sometime considering i must have run it like 3 months now and have never touch it except with the air compressor.
So say I do advance the timing to the +10 mark, with all things being equal, how many teeth should i drop on my pinion on a 64 pitch to test out without toasting my motor?
Ivan
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