i only notice a little diff with the timing advance to +10.....:confused::confused:

It is much better on my motor. And even more difference if I use the KLGP (V2+) sensors in the V3. That is what I'm running now coz I like high revving motors LOL...

Skinny that is correct

Hey guys,

Does anyone have a setup using the grand turismo ver2 for 12th scale, I am running the novak ballistic 13.5 motor. I have tried everthing and the car runs so slow.

Thanks,

Derek

Posting your vehicle settings/gearing as well as what setting you have active on the esc would help a great deal.

Speed Passion 13.5 ETS Motor
 

Hey,

Anyone got any ideas what gearing is being used for the Speed Passion 13.5 ETS Motor? (1/10 Touring On Road with 7.4v lipo- indoor carpet)

Thanks

Hey All.I down loaded the the updated software for the GT2.0 the 312 update and I didn't notice a diffrence in performance, can anyone tell me what is the 312 supposed to do. Im running it on a 21.5 Novak motor. Thanks

Please be more specific as to your setup, vehicle/ESC/Radio/64P or 48P/What kind of LiPo?

Again could you be more specific as to your settings, calibration, motor type, gearing

Could you be more specific again....what software and what settings on the ESC, did you miss step one of calibration of the radio to the esc? I need more specifics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. MR4
Hey,

Anyone got any ideas what gearing is being used for the Speed Passion 13.5 ETS Motor? (1/10 Touring On Road with 7.4v lipo- indoor carpet)

Thanks

Please be more specific as to your setup, vehicle/ESC/Radio/64P or 48P/What kind of LiPo?

abailey21

Setup is: Vehicle: Xray T2'09 Rubber Tires, ESC: LRP SPX Profile 8, Radio: Ko Espirit 3, Spur Gear: 64DP and Battery: 7.4V IP5000 40C Lipo. Track is carpet with 80 Foot Straight & technical infield.

Thanks for your help

What are other SPX drivers using as a FDR for 13.5?

5.8 ish...SPX with Duo 2 motor from Corally driver.

It is more like it depends on which SPEEDO more like which motor....use 5.8 on the SP 13.5 motor and give that a try.

Start with 6.5 and adjust to the track.

OK, so I have responding to PM's and emails all day about this so I figure the best way is to post it on here for everyone.

I'm not 100% on the LCD programming box instructions because I don't have any handy to look at for a verification if this is in print for all of you to read when you purchase the product.

Changing software and setting up your ESC:

When you first purchase your ESC your required to calibrate your radio to the ESC (you would be amazed by how many people ask if this is necessary even though every ESC on the market has required this step for the past 20 years)

We tell our customers to set your throttle and brake EPA's to 100% and go through the calibration process:

1. Turn on your radio

2. Hold down setup button and turn on ESC let go when ESC starts beeping (ESC will continue beeping)

3. Push the setup button once to set neutral (ESC will stop continuously beeping and beep one time)

4. Pull full throttle on your radio and push setup button again (ESC will beep twice)

5. Pull full brake and push setup button a 3rd time (ESC will beep 3 times)

6. Wait a second or two and turn off your ESC, then turn it back on.

7. Set your throttle and Brake EPA's to the full setting on the radio.

Just that simple.

Now onto changing the software in your ESC:

So you've been running your vehicle for a few months and you want to try a new software version we've released. You hook your ESC up to the PC using your LCD box and you install the latest software.

Now I'm not trying to sound harsh but when you flash new software on your ESC your erasing EVERYTHING on it and installing as it was brand new, sort of like upgrading from Windows XP to Windows 7. The little computer in your RC car is a new operating system on now. Just like a brand new in the box ESC, so what happens when you have a brand new in the box ESC? We must calibrate the radio to the ESC, because essentially your have a brand new ESC in your car.

So now we have the latest greatest software and here's how to make it work:

We tell our customers to set your throttle and brake EPA's to 100% and go through the calibration process:

1. Turn on your radio

2. Hold down setup button and turn on ESC let go when ESC starts beeping (ESC will continue beeping)

3. push the setup button once to set neutral (ESC will stop continuously beeping and beep one time)

4. Pull full throttle on your radio and push setup button again (ESC will beep twice)

5. Pull full brake and push setup button a 3rd time (ESC will beep 3 times)

6. Wait a second or two and turn off your ESC, then turn it back on.

7. Set your throttle and Brake EPA's to the full setting on the radio.

Basiclly what I'm saying here is when you update your software and completely wipe out your ESC and install new software you have to treat it like its a brand new ESC that would absolutely 100% require you to recalibrate your radio to your ESC.

That is the reason when you update to a new software it seems worse off than before. Your forgetting one of the most crucial steps in the ESC setup

I also skipped the part of changing your settings on the ESC because you all know what you like for your settings and I don't need to cover that, but I guess it doesn't hurt to touch on it a little:

Remember when you update your ESC software it resets the ENTIRE ESC so your going to need to change your settings, like fwd/brake, drag brake, DRRS, timing and things of that nature

Adam did my speedo show up?

I have to say I had a blast using the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro in the VTA class, and this is without the LCD Programmer card. Just did the settings as recommended here, and the ESC performed great, lots of power, and extremely smooth. Had this combined with a Tekin Redline 21.5 .

I look forward to getting in my LPF versions and trying them out since the GT2.0 Pro is overkill anyway LOL.