Solara thanks for the info on the reventon series!!

regarding GT2 now.

I run TC with SP v3 5.5 and latest stock software 323stock
settings are
1:for/brake
2:10%
3:2.8v
4:2
5:100%
6:100%
7:0%
8:6%
9:36
10:6
11:enable
12:24
13:14000rpm
14:0.1
15:750

fdr:7.22

Track is HUGE. Lanes have 6m width, main straight is 210feet with sweeper of another 190feet ( based on google maps)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...01382,0.002916

Start of race everything is fine, plenty of power everywhere. But as race proceeds power (punch especially) starts to fade. Also, doesn't feel any different if I'm half throttle or full throttle.
Motor temps are around 50-60celcious. Mah draw from battery isn't bad, like other people.
I dropped setting 3, cut-off voltage from 3.0v to 2.8, thinking that maybe at some point I ask too much from the battery and speedo goes to safe mode, no noticeable difference maybe few seconds. Didn't want to disable or reduce it further without having second opinion.

Feeling is same with any kind of battery I tried. New, 65C etc.

Any ideas?

Problem is that star

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/escsetup.asp

Check the 1/12 page and Steve Walter send me a good baseline setup on 323stock (boost) with 13.5 SP motor...you have to adjust your gearing because you are running the Sonics but I would not do it until you have that tested and try it out for several lap first.....

If you are running BOOST, 323 is the software to go...if no timing (blinky), use 508_no_timing.

Motor
 

Could you post a link to the new mmm 17.5 and the optional 30 degree sensor! Thanks

OK...this is just me (please don't blame me to tell you to do it, you can use your own judgment and figure that out), and it is not because SP is my business and I can get LIPO for free.....(far from it.) On any racing event, especially on MOD, I don't use lipo cutoff............my theory is, I always make sure my LIPO are charged up, and I know I am not racing the car for 10 minutes or until I see the car slow down. I do racing....some are 5 minutes, some are 6 minutes...once it is done, I jumped off the driver stand and call it a race. On practice...I do 5-7 laps and check motor temp, if the car is hook up...I am done too. I hardly do a 5-6 minutes practice but if I do, I also do know my time and know when to pull off...

Having the lipo cuttoff set to zero gives me all the advantage....#1, if my car does not perform right...I know it is not my lipo. #2, I will not worry about the ESC will have a FAUST shut off for whatever reason especially when I was leading or winning...I will kill myself because of that kinda incident. That happened to me on 1 of the USVTA event when I was using a brand new ESC and I forgot to turn off the thermal and cause me a win...NEVER AGAIN.

So...I suggest, turn off the LIPO...keep an eye on your charger and make sure your LIPO is fully charged. Lipo cutoff can save your LIPO, but will cause you a race.......I don't know what is more important to you but if I didn't charge my lipo enough and I balloon the lipo, that is my mistake...but if the lipo cutoff activated by mistake and cause me a race, that is STUPID on me....by not turning that off.

Electronics DOES thing that no one can explain...so please don't ask me why I cannot get a ESC that has a error free lipo cutoff. I wish I know and if you do know the answer, please let me know...I would love to buy that technology out and put that into our ESC.

Now...your setup. I really don't see anything wrong....except, why 5.5...try 4.0T, your track is not hugh...is CRAZY HUGH.

If I have to pick something, and still using the 5.5...I would say you should try higher DRRS, like level 4 instead of 2....2 is too LAZY if you asked me, especially your track is HUGH. If there is traction, you can definitely use 3 or 4.

Now...your time delay, you need at least 0.2 sec or even 0.3 sec. 0.1 sec is too soon. Exactly like you said...you are missing the low and mid range. Your boost are up too soon that it won't let the motor's low end rpm/torque to work its way and all the timing are dump directly....it gives you all the power when you apply 1/2 throttle then the rest of the throttle the motor is already MAX out...

Try MARC winning setup with 4.0 and boost....

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...0Round%205.jpg

Give that a try and let us know what happen....I am only giving you my theory as I can only DREAM to have a track like that size. Our track right now is 1/8th of that size, 40' x 75'...boost 17.5 is MOD for us now. LOL.

MMM 17.5 is here...

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...SP000039&c=MTR


Optional 30* board is here...

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...SP000029&c=OPT

No problem. I have been meaning to post my 5.0/5.5t boosted setup. I will try to write down my settings at the track tomorrow night and then get it sent to you so you can post it on the web site. I did do a lot of experimenting because most 323_Stock setups posted on the site were for 4.0t or 6.5/7.5t, so my setup is a bit different. I will try to post it by Thursday.

Hello,

I am going to echo what Solara said about running no lipo cutoff. I never run it and have never had an issues (I always pull the car before I know the lipo is going to dump). It's just not something that you want to risk costing you a race.

Now on to the settings. Here is my input on the specifics, I copy/pasted your setup and will put notes in bold next to it:

1:for/brake fine
2:10% fine
3:2.8v disable this
4:2 should be fine, I run 2-4 for mod
5:100% fine
6:100% fine
7:0% fine
8:6% fine
9:36 fine for a 5.5t
10:6 fine, you can probably get away with 12/0.1s as well
11:enable disable this
12:24 perhaps a little high, I usually stay below 20 for turbo
13:14000rpm for a large flowing track this would work, but I use in the range of 7,000-11,000 typically
14:0.1 change to .2 or .3 for a large track
15:750 with the change to #14 and if you lower the turbo, you might lower this to 650-700
fdr:7.22 sounds about right for a large track

One thing you might want to experiment with is a little extra timing on the motor. You will need to adjust your ESC settings accordingly. But this can have a large effect on power, temps, and fade. I like to get my gearing and motor timing perfect, and then make all fine adjustments on the speedo settings.

Typically if you are showing lots of fade during a run you are probably over-timing the motor, even if the temps are OK. First thing is to adjust how quickly the timing is applied (turbo delay and boost timing accl.) and evaluate how much boost/turbo you are running. With a large track it is better to let the motor breath and wind out on the straight away, rather than adding all the boost too quickly. Your ESC setup is pretty close, which makes me think you might need to experiment with the motor timing and FDR gearing a little more.

I usually consider the batteries a big factor as well, but with a new 65C pack you shouldn't have to consider the battery.

Come on Matt. Time to install a Mod motor. I have a SP 8.5 you may try, it's just sitting here doing nothing.

I'll buy you some of these to hang from the back of your Tourer

thank you for the suggestions

I usually run fully charge batteries. I say usually as I have by mistake install battery that I just run them before :) (I agree in that case is my fault, but expensive one :cool:)

I run 1-2 laps before and 1 after the race is over, especially if I'm not sure that I finished (lost win once because I thought I've finished).

Run time is not an issue. I can easily run 7, 730 with those settings!!

Will disable lipo cutoff and try the suggestions for next time (hopefully this year ;))

Our rules have no motor limit, but we have decided to run up to 4.5. With stock motor 5.5 is fast (can keep up with nitro cars on straight - loose on sweepers and turns as they run foam) so I thought no need for higher motor and run the esc safer.

Is there somewhere a guide on the settings and how they affect each other?

layout we used
http://www.el-me.gr/images/tracks/frt17.jpg

:lol:

your a good man mate maybe i will also get some for my motor bike to when i ride it to the track

have a mod motor 3.5 SP im no ready for it yet. i want to get a better understanding on all the technology first.

it would be nice if there was a explanation on each ecs setting with exactly what happens and affects i have just been playing around with it and chipping away slowly.

OH MATT....GAME ON, he is calling you out...what is your answer..? :sneaky:

Dude...all you need to do is ask. :nod:

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...il_27_2011.pdf

Hey there,

I have a 17.5R V3 1 Cell motor (sealed motor from IIC). I am racing in blinky 17.5 1/12 class and wanted more than the stock 10Deg of timing. I picked up (possibly by accident) the 20+ green sensor ring. even at the lowest timing of 20, the motor barely works. It drives like an old sensorless motor, chugging, and even at full speed it sounds very very harsh like a misfire in an old car.

The Tekin ESC I am using (in ROAR mode) shows all 3 Hall sensors reporting back.

is 20 Deg just a step too far for this motor? Should I return the sensor ring? If I put the stock 0-10 black ring back in, the motor runs fine.

i have my 3.5 and a 4.5 begging to be abused but i will when i i have a really good understanding with each individual setting on the ECS.

maybe another 6 months and it will start to click into gear its taken me almost 4 months to stop blowing motors and melting them.:D

then i will be attacking Patto in mod :weird: or maybe when he is lapping me there's my chance.:sneaky:

thanks