LumberJack

I just bought GT2.1 EX. (For my 1/12)

1. Do I need to upgrade the software to run the 1s?
(beeps and flashes green now when I plug in 1s)

2. Is it with a USB cable, or do I need something more (like a spoken LEDbox??)
(incase; where the heck can I buy this usb cable?)

Have search the whole internet for an answer of the first quiz, without any results. And the manual doesnt tell me either...

TRXRACER99

iTrader: (10)

some guys say you have to calibrate it with 2s lipos.
to upgrade the softwere which would be smart u would have to purchase this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Programing-Box

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

you only need the LCD is you want to run software other than MOD that comes as std. you can also use the programming box to get going that comes with the speedy. just turn of the low voltage cutt off. then its good to go.
just monitor 3 or 4 mins of use as to how much battery you are using. then step it up to 5 mins if you have plenty of battery in reserve.

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Hi need some advice on the best way to lower motor temps via the settings on my gt 2.1 pro stock esc while maintaining performance as much as possible. My motor after a 5.5 minute run is sitting at about 80-82c which I'm assuming is too hot. Races go for 6 minutes where I run.

Running an epic d3 21.5 roar spec on a xray t3 '11. 4.2 drive ratio.


These are my settings at the moment (running V1.35-101212stock)

1:1
2:3
3:5
4:7
5:4
6:1
7:1
8:1
9:6
10:1
11:-
12:6 (Initially used this on 7 but the car showed 80-82 degrees and faded a little. On 6 the car didn't fade at all but temps stayed the same.)
13:1
14:3
15:5 (I'm going to test dropping this to 6 next as I assume this is most likely to drop temps?)

[[john]]

iTrader: (24)

Hi Guys!

I have SP 2.1 ProStock ESC and will be running a SP 21.5 V3 motor.

Whats a good starting set-up with the stock 2.1 Firmware? I'm going to start at an FDR of 5.0 and work from there.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.


*EDIT!

Just saw the above post. Will use similar settings.

Redwood

Hey guys, there is a setup for 21.5 posted on the speed passion website, which can be found here:

http://www.speedpassion.net/en/escsetup.asp

I have not personally used that setup but it should be a good starting point.

Regards

Neal

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

do you run a cooling fan on the motor ?? this will lower your temps

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Hey Neal,

That setup is very similar to what I am using already. But I'm not sure what is best to adjust to drop the temps without sacrificing performance too much.


No I'm not. I was trying to see if I can keep the weight down as much as possible. It is already a bit heavy on the Rear left. Or would it be worthwhile taking the extra weight?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i always ran the coler in "super stock" overhere , we were running boosted 13.5s and if i didnt use a cooling fan then i would end up with 90 degreesC motors ,

Also i used the Much more motor active cooler , this makes the motor almost frozen before the run so you can run longer before the temps get too high

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXTYY8

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

So how many degrees did you drop with the cooling fan if you were running 90 without one?

I'll look into getting one but I may need to find what I can do with the esc in the mean time as I doubt I'll have a heatsink by sunday.

g12314

iTrader: (6)

Your FDR of 4.2 is what is causing the excessive heat. The setup from Bill Sydor on the website is based on on 6.11 FDR, allowing the use of the advanced timing.

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for pointing that out. I missed that.

From what I've read though, a brushless motor shouldn't be hitting over 80 degrees c/180 degrees f. Is that right? If that is the case I'm at the limit now even though I'm running longer gears (I assume because I am running 0 motor endbell timing (As I have no idea what I am doing with it I haven't touched it) I haven't blown the motor).

I just want to take it down a notch to keep things safe before I do any damage (hopefully I haven't already). I want to try to keep the ratio of 4.2 as typically people run 3.9-4.2 at my track. So I want to work around keeping the ratio of 4.2 or maybe push to 4.3 at most if I have to.

Obviously it is cheaper and easier if I can play around with the esc settings instead of buying more pinion/spurs/cooling if I can drop temps as effectively.

What I don't understand though is what out of all the settings should be the first thing I should look at to drop the temperature of the motor?

I know I can go to the track and try find this out through trial and error but I have hit 80-82 degrees twice now after 5 minute runs and I don't want to further risk damaging the motor.

At least then if I change some esc settings, if I see the car lose too much performance by the change I can look at extra cooling/gearing to see if they might drop the temps down while not reducing performance as much.

Also I feel I'm very close to that sweet spot right now given that the car didn't feel like it faded despite the high temps. So I think I just need 1 more change. Just don't know what.

Thanks
John

g12314

iTrader: (6)

John,

What size track are you running on? This is an important detail for determining the proper ESC / FDR settings.

Jimmy.

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Fellas,
I started a thread in the Offroad section as I felt one has been needed for along time...please use this for any questions regarding anything offroad related to Speed Passion. Let's get this other thread going!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post8766976

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Unfortunately I have no idea of the size of the track.

Based off google maps I can guess the track is about 20m X 45m

Track layout:


Last week average winning laptimes were around 20.2 average and 19.5 best (25-30 degree c day)

and recommended starting ratio for the track is a 4.2 though have read that one of the winning cars runs a 3.9 in that class.