Just line up the B on the sticker or the screw to be inline with the center tab where the motor wires go.

That is correct.

What car are you running? TC, 12th, WGT?

I am running a TRF416 (with Spool and the large 40mm LRP motor fan) on rubber tyres.

I had a practice night last night (cool air temp as it is the back end of Winter here) and kept the car at 3.52 FDR (60/35 to get 56mm rollout). Our track is only the size of 2 tennis courts with 8/10 corners like hairpins.

I had my LRP Stock Spec ESC turned up to 6/8 for throttle profile for the first part of the session and motor temp was around 100f. I then turned the profile up to 8/8 and got about 2/10th extra a lap out of the car, with the temperatures about the same. I was getting the same lap times as I did with the Novak 17.5 at 3.3FDR (60mm rollout).

I know I can go up at least a couple of pinions to get more topend and the aggression of 8/8 on the ESC will allow me to keep a lot of the bottom-end.

Q1. I was wondering if there was a point where the SP17.5 just starts to underperform and just lose its punch (eg 3.4 or lower)?

Q2. Is there a risk of gearing too low (3.6/3.7) and the car overheating because it reaches the topend too quickly?

Ben

Hi Ben,

A1) Yes. That will also correspond loosely with motor temps. When you see the temps increase sharply with one more pinion tooth instead of a predictable linear response, you'll also notice the car will start feeling soft about 1/2 way into the run. (but as you are practicing - always gear for best laptimes, and not automatically to the "breaking point" of the motor)

A2) Not really. Gearing down only 10% off of a competitive level isn't enough to cause issues. throw a 5.0 at it, and maybe that would be enough.

Could someone please explain to me what's the difference between drag brake force and initial brace force?

Drag brake is applied when the radio is at "neutral"...(automatically)
Inital brake force is the lowest braking force you can initiate by pushing the trigger and "braking" manually...

The initial brake force is you using your trigger to engage your brakes, the drag brake force is an automatic braking (set by you on the esc) when you let the throttle return to neutral

I have the speed passion gt2 pro . I have it for 3-4 months now with a sp 4T motor.
2 days ago i switch motor with a friend of mine, he haves a lrp x11 4T.
We did the swap because at his t.c with a lrp spx bulet the lrp motor was very aggressive and it was difficult for him to handle it in the corners.
With the sp motor now he haves no problems handling the car and going faster in the corners but now i have
Not so much of a handling issue but i had a performance issue.
The car for almost 3 laps was going great and then imminently it lost almost half of its power.
I pulled to the pits and after the car wasnt starting . We found out that it was the sensor or of the motor or the speed control.
We clean the connections of the cable ( speed control and motor ) and it seems that is working fine. I will take it to the track tomorrow to found out .
The problem that i have is that in the beginning i thought that it was a problem with the transmitter-receiver so i tried to do a setup of them.
And of course the speed control dosnt have any lights to see what you are doing so i had to hear the sound that the speed control is doing.
But there was nothing to hear , i tried more than 10 times nothing no sound at all.
At the end i did it without hearing anything ( holding the setup button for 3 seconds then full throttle press setup , full brakes and press setup and neutral and press setup ) and it seems it works .
1. Does anyone else had a issue with the sound of the speed control ?
2. How much timing i have to put to the speed control ? now i have it at max 26,5 i think it is.
3. Can i do something to reset the speed control to have the sound again? I tried by putting the latest version of the speed control ( 090323a ) but nothing .
4. Do i have to send the speed control for a service? Exept the sound it seems to work ok
Any help will be great.
Thanks

You're doing it wrong.

On transmitter
Press and hold setup, switch on, release setup.
Neutral, press & release setup
Full forward, press & release setup
Full brakes, press & release setup.

You'll only hear the sound if the motor is connected to the ESC I think.

Thanks for the setting , you are right i was doing it wrong the reverse is working better now , but still no sound.
The motor is connected to the esc.

Hi Memix,

1) I haven't heard of that issue, but again, the motor has to be connected (the ESC plays the sounds through the motor) and the sensor lead has to be connected as well. The volume of the beeps will also vary with the position of the rotor - try rotating the spur gear a couple of teeth while it's beeping and waiting for the neutral point.

2) The lower the turns on the motor, the lower you want the timing advance. 26.5 is WAY too high for a 4.0t motor. I would go down to 11.25 or less. Your motor will run much cooler. (you might need to gear a tooth or two faster)

3) - #1

4) - #1. If there is still no sound but it's working OK I wouldn't bother sending it for service.

Hello all.

For the GT 2.0 Pro ESC (the $199.99 one), what has been confirmed as the settings to use for 1S lipo with a booster like the novak one? If you run no lipo cutoff, do you now need a seperate 1S lipo cutoff device of some sort? This would be for 1/12 scale.

For both 1/12 1S lipo and 1/10 VTA 21.5 and lipo, what are the software versions recommended?

What motor are you running in your 12th?

As for the 21.5 max it out!

for 1/12 it will be a 17.5 motor if I try the class.

I just want to make sure I don't forget to do something if I try this whole 1S lipo thing and screw up my lipo or ESC. So if anyone has an overview for a noob when it comes to 1/12 1S lipo feel free to post. something that really breaks it down (ie- get this, and this, hook this up this way, set this, etc.)