57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
03-12-2010 | 11:47 AM
#3062
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 145
From: southampton, UK
03-12-2010 | 11:49 AM
#3063
My Computer
C:
Program Files
Speed Passion V. 1.32
Basically those 2 files need to be in the speed passion folder located in your program files folder in your hard drive
03-12-2010 | 11:52 AM
#3064
03-12-2010 | 11:54 AM
#3065
Thank you!
Paul
03-12-2010 | 11:56 AM
#3066
So your basically copying and pasting and replacing the files that were in the 1.32 software folder with the new ones you just downloaded.
03-12-2010 | 12:11 PM
#3069
Tech Addict
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 737
From: Europe
thanks Adam.
03-12-2010 | 12:49 PM
#3075
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 498
From: Speed Passion USA Support HQ
New settings added:
12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.
13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.
14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.
15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting. Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note: low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming value #s)
Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6
A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust #13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it just barely doesn’t top out.
B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.
C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!
D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:
Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back down the boost to the next lower setting.
2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and overheat quickly – back the punch down.
3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however - just have the boost engage on the straight.
IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly translate into faster lap times.
When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's better or worse!
.
.
12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.
13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.
14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.
15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting. Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note: low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming value #s)
Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6
A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust #13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it just barely doesn’t top out.
B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.
C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!
D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:
Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back down the boost to the next lower setting.
2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and overheat quickly – back the punch down.
3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however - just have the boost engage on the straight.
IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly translate into faster lap times.
When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's better or worse!
.
.