It went "sensorless".........check the sensor wire first, then check the sensor itself. If it is a SP motor, the sensors can be very delicate to the abuses of banging boards and plain old crashes.

thanx for the help,
btw on the new v3 13.5t motors the stock timing at the back comes with the sensor plug in between 0 and 10. what timing would this been? and i noticed that i get the led flashing problem when i run the motor with the sensor plug moved all to the left to 0.

does Schumacher sell any GM Double Sided Tape?

Does anyone know what the actual timing is on the V3 motors? Is zero on the motor indeed zero degrees of timing?

I tried searching but couldn't find it again so I may be a little off, either Shawn or Adam posted a while back saying that the V3 had the same timing at zero as the V2 motors so that is 12 or 14 degrees.

Thank you Skitee. Even if I don't know exactly how much it is, it is helpful to know it is not exactly zero.

1. Running mode = Forward with brake
2. Drag Brake force = 20%
3. Low voltage cutoff = none (i changed this to 3v per cell)
4. DRRS Start mode = Level IX (9)
5. Brake force = 75%
6. Reverse force = 25%
7. Initial brake force = 20%
8. Neutral range = 6%
9. AMTS Timing = 15deg
10. Over-heat protection = Enable

Final drive ratio = 5.25 as suggested by the motor sheet.

I have had the same issue with the v3 sensors.......I have 3 (2 17.5s and 1 13.5) v3s of which I have lost 2 to sensor mechanical failures....the male pins are easily pulled from their mount on the board. You need to be very careful how you move the connector when adjusting the timing. I resoldered 1 successfully, the other, not so good, it's hard to get a good solder on such a small area.
You may also find that the sensor interferes with the stator windings! I have disassembled several of these to find the windings won't allow normal range of timing adjustment. Carefully, Very Carefully push the windings outwardly to gain more clearance for the sensor.

On the motor timing degree thing: It Is What It Is. The best advice I have seen and believe in is this: leave it in the middle, gear for temp/lap-time, drop a tooth, then use motor timing to adjust temp. NOW for U I enstine types, this is for non-ramp-up-non-turbo type speedos like the Speedpassion 1.1 that we are talking about here. Settings on the 1.1...stock...super stock.... Max drrs and timing per Adam way back when this thread 'reappeared'. Drag brake also adds heat.
Hope some of this helps

Hi guys. The software of the new SP Gt 2,1 is the same that is already avalaible for the Gt 2,0 ( the "107" and the "110" ) ?
The "upgrade system" will be the same for the Gt 2,1 and the Gt 2,0 ?
Thank you

Turn your DRRS down to 6 or 7. At 9 your pushing to aggressive and by turning it down you maybe able to get some speed when you increase timing. I am sure one of the many gurus will be on here shortly to correct me if my interpretation of your setting is off.

Where did you hear this? It is my understanding there is a new update which should be on the website round the 19th

As yet there is no confirmation as to what this update will include..

Hope you know something new


Alex

Hey all! Anyone know if the Hobbywing LCD Programming Bob, which looks identical to the Speedpassion Box, will work on the Speedpassion ESC's? Pretty sure I know the answer but wanted to verify.

From what has been posted on here, it is a Try at Your Own Risk proposition that some have reported does work, others, it can brick your ESC depending on what you do.

I would say I would just wait for the SP branded unit. I beleive there are a few for sale on RCtech right now.

I just want to say that there is nothing wrong with the Speed Passion ESC. I put my Mi4 in the A main last weekend running against Tekins and LRP's. There was only .3 of a second between fast laps and a one lap difference from first to last after 6 min. of racing. I can't wait to try out the new 2.1 software.

I was there to second his performance...good run anyway.