Originally Posted by irgo (Post 7003173)

That's correct,
That's why i am asking to adam
when is speed passion LCD Professional
to allow Torque Limit Custom Value, DMTS 2.0, etc.
even Graphics adjustment software allowed us to have multi curved.

this our mandate.

Originally Posted by rjmracer (Post 7005043)

Right guys got my 2.0 lpf and v3 10.5 motor the other week done one test session so far and impressed... didnt get enough runs to get the gearing right though but it seems with the new v3 it needs to be geared right down compared to the other motors that are out atm (lrp x12) i ended up gearing on 5.6 on a medium sized track and i think there was still room for more gearing down ....motor wasnt that hot and was still ripping out of the corners this was with all pf the speedo settings on full punch and timing... timing was also full 10 degress on the motor! and yeah from what the guys have said on this thread the brakes are very smooth!

Just after a bit of comfidence really with the different firmware upgrades for the speedo just ordered my LCD PROGRAMMER and after reading some positive things people have said that there is quite an improvment to be had from the software that comes on the speedo from the factory whats peoples poinions on this from testing? and has anyone found one thats really good with 10.5 brushless? I know there are some on this thread but its so long now id need to hire someone to read through it for me ! lol

Cheers guys....SP all the way!

Originally Posted by tfrahm (Post 6969864)

I searched the thread, and never found what I was looking for, so here goes...


When I first got an SP ESC (GT2.0 LPF), and Ultrasportsman 13.5, I also ordered an SP sensor cable -- everything worked great...

When I bought the second GT2.0 LPF, I used it with a Novak motor -- everything worked great...

However, when I did some motor swapping and changed from the Ultrasportsman 13.5 to a v3 13.5, I needed another sensor cable, and all the hobby shop had were LRP cables. I figured "No Problem" -- they are "compatible", right?

The original LPF worked fine at first, then during the second heat race, the car started to run rough and lost speed..???? After the race, I found that the sensor cable had worked loose at the ESC... Plugged it back in - made SURE it was fully seated, ran fine in the third heat... Then in the main, same thing -- cogging at low speed, lost top end -- sensor cable loose again...

At home, I realized that the LRP cable plug seems to be a hair smaller, and doesn't "lock into the ESC"... ????? (even fully seated, it pulls out easily with just a small tug on the cable..)

OH -- PS: at the track I tried to change to a Novak cable, but no-go -- it would NOT fully seat in the ESC.. As noted earlier, I've run Novak motors/cables with the other LPF, so I know it SHOULD work, but...?

I now suspect that "compatible" really isn't, and that the quality control on these little cables isn't what I thought it was...?

Any advice on sensor cables? Are the SpeedPassion cables that much better? (I NEVER had a problem with this ESC using the SP cable with the previous motor...)

Thanks in advance for any help...

Originally Posted by tfrahm (Post 7006264)

UPDATE:
I rushed an order for an SP sensor cable from Stormer, and I also seemed to get the LRP cable better seated in the meantime... Saturday night, the SP13.5v3 and LRP cable was fine in practice -- I figured "problem solved"... WRONG! -- In the first heat, the motor/ESC again reverted to sensorless mode, cogging at low speeds, and losing 10-15% of top end speed... I changed to the SP sensor cable for the second heat -- motor/ESC ran great, so I figured "problem solved"... WRONG! In the third heat, the motor/ESC again reverted to sensorless operation, cogging, etc... I gave up and installed the old Ultrasportsman 13.5R for the A-main (with SP Sensor cable) -- ran perfect...

I now assume the problem is with the motor -- most likely a bad sensor assembly, as the motor runs fine otherwise...

QUESTION: What is the part number for the v3 sensor assembly? Where can I order one...?

Originally Posted by bjspinner (Post 7006506)

Have you had a look at how close the sensor is to the rotor on the ver 3 motor?

You may be able to shim (remove shim/s and move to the pinnion end of rotor) the rotor closer to the sensor board.

We were dynoing motors and found on the version 2 this would stop cogging as the motor warmed up( also increased power by 5 watts)

Originally Posted by tfrahm (Post 7006549)

Hmmm... That might make sense... every time I change the cable, the process would push on the sensor assembly, right? Then as the motor runs, the sensor could move/vibrate back away from the rotor...??? From the video of how to disassemble the v3's, it looks like the sensor is held in place by being sandwiched between two soft vinyl pads, which might (?) allow for movement of the sensor unit...? On the other hand, from the external view, this motor has zero endplay of the rotor in the can, so I don't know how much there is to "shim" unless I can move a shim from one end to the other, but the video doesn't make it clear how the rotor is shimmed, so...?

Originally Posted by Tha Skinny (Post 7005109)

WOWZERS^that is CRRRRRRaaaazy. Maybe he got the defintion of "mandate" confused with something else. :lol:

From what I can see SP came out with a new ESC for a reason. I know that the 2.0 is a great speedo. I ran one myself for quite a while and really liked it. Once I figured out that all the settings have a certain purpose. I am pretty sure the timing settings on the esc work best for specific motors. I just dont understand why some are so demanding from a company..(not to make it sound like they are not listening to us) and should be listening to everything you say at all . They have there own R&D with people who know what they are talking about because unlike us are actually on top of there ISh:nod:

I know they have great customer support but I kinda feel sorry for them at times when I read this thread:tire::tire:

M

Originally Posted by bjspinner (Post 7006602)

Get the sensor end and leave it intact, now place the rotor into the bearing and see how much gap there is between the rotor and the sensor board.

Remove a shim at a time and see how the gap closes up,put that shim at the other end so as to not increase the total end play and give it a try.

Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson (Post 7007097)

Hey does anyone know the release date of the new software??

Cannot wait to test the 2.1 stock software


Alex