TEM

I think a lot of people have this confused including myself in the beginning.

There are 2 different programming devices.

1 is the programming card that comes in the box. It's for changing settings only (brakes, punch, timing, etc)

2 is the LCD programmer and it's sold separately. That's for changing firmware. ie swtiching from the profile out of the box to the 1107 or 1110,etc.

rc-racer-kirby

Thank you for quick response!

It does not seem as complicated as i thought, once i have the stock software it will have all the settings and run good for stock? Or is there more to be done?

Dont like the idea of buying the program card but i suppose it still works out at a decent price alltogether

What is the talk of recalibrating the ESC after changing the settings? Is this just resetting? but wouldnt that take it back to factory settings? Never heard of this before.

Why is it i have heard of people switching between updates during a raceday? is there further updates that make a diffrence for diffrent tracks etc.

Thanks

sosidge

The stock software is good to go once installed, but you can fine tune the profile (punch, drag brake etc) to your own tastes also.

It is simply recalibrating the ESC to your radio. It has no effect on the software or profile settings.

You can only do this if you have a PC trackside. I don't take one and have never wished I had one with me.

TEM

If you want to be cheap; you will just have to find a friend who's got the LCD programmer. For price-point, I think the Speed Passion is a very sensible buy.

You need a computer and the LCD programmer to change the firmware on the ESC. You do not need to do this all the time in most cases. I'm sure once I get it figured out, I"ll leave the notebook AND the LCD programmer at home. IF a new firmware comes out, I'll bring everything to the track to switch back and forth to test, etc.

As for the recalibration thing; that's basically ME! Sorry if that cause confusion with anyone else. The recalibration is as described above. When you update the firmware, reset the ESC and speedo. That's basically the initial setup thing (turn the speedo with the program button held down, neutral the throttle and press button, full on, press button, full brakes, press button). Something really stupid I overlooked.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

saw this when i surfing the ebay..

Speedpassion

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Sorry should this be posted before...

I installed the stock profile onto my SP GT2 and ever since it flashes green and makes a beeping noise..

After working out if I used a battery this enabled me to put a different profile on and as long as it was not stock the controller worked fine.

Anyhelp here will be great, really want the stock profile to work

Alex

Drillit

By your sig, I'm guessing you are running 12th 1cell. If so.....turn the battery protection OFF.

nearest I can tell these new "STOCK" setups are working only in 2cell (7.4volt) ......TryHard and myself have discussed this issue back in this thread.

GOOD LUCK
Mark

rc-racer-kirby

OK so say a new stock update came out? It may offer more speed for example better for larger tracks? so people take the pc to the track to see if they want that extra speed or if it was better before?

It all still sounds very comlicated, not sure if i should go for the LRP SXX Stock Spec instead

Would it take me long to get the GT2.0 setup to my liking for every track i go to?

dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

My .02 cents on this is that you could go ahead and buy the LRP esc but when Tekin and SpeedPassion come out with new software that "spanks" the LRP, you will be buying another LRP. Or you could just bite the bullet get the SP or Tekin which ever is your flavor and only have to load new software. Hell now a days i think you could buy one of those netbooks for about what you would pay for an ESC.

Coldn

iTrader: (1)

anyone know the specs from v3 10.5T??

Spec. RPM per volt, kV:
RPM:
Power:
Efficiency:

AndysD8

iTrader: (40)

When you calibrate your radio the instructions say to do so with your EPA at 100% what do you do if your radio say maxes out at 150? Do you still calibrate at 100 or would you use the 150? I've seen this question answered on here before I believe but I can't find it.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

I always calibrate at 100% like the instructions say, afterwards I will bump my EPA's to the maxed out setting, mines 120%, yours is 150%

TEM

Why would you bump it up to above 100% afterwards???

AndysD8

iTrader: (40)

Thanks! Mine might be 120 as well I don't have it in front of me at the moment I just knew that it's over 100. By bumping it up after calibration do you actually gain anything?

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

I found this on a fluke

In the prototype stages of the 2.0 I noticed my LPF was running really hot (180) on average.

My friends asked where my EPA's were, I said 100% because the 1.1's hated being anything OTHER than 100%.

My buddy Matt jumped my EPA's to 150% on my DX3R and I gained a few things.

1. My temps averaged about 110 degrees after the switch, (from 180ish).
2. I gained a higher top speed
3. the overall feel of the ESC was smoother.
4.My motor temps dropped about 15-30 degrees
5. I had stronger brakes


It was a 110% improvement and honestly it was a fluke that Matty found it