Mornedn

Can anyone share a good low traction ashpalt setup please?

Track size 50m x 30m

RAL

iTrader: (67)

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...YokomoBD5.html

Mornedn

Bump

vitomon

hi there,

my guess is this. if you add spacers under the camberlink (inside and outside on the hub) this raises the instant rollcenter, thus providing a little more grip overall.

therefore in low traction conditions i normally do that and in high traction conditions normally the other way around to get rid of some grip to free up the car.

however, from my point of few you could also only decrease the number of shims on the inner camber link to get more camber gain in the corners to generate more grip on that side of the car. but generally i think the best way is to leave the camberlink proportions as they are and adjust on both sides (inside and outside) equally. its best to have the rear camberlink and arm closely to paralell which gives the best camber gain. on the front the inside of the camber link should by roughly 0.5mm lower than the outside when compared to the arm.

standard positions for tarmac and normal grip carpet have been 2mm on the inside camberlink and 0.5mm on the outside (maybe 1mm sometimes). unless you encounter super high grip conditions (3-3.5mm inside front) i would start there.

Mornedn

So for low traction tracks, you will remove shims from the inside camberlink? 1mm - 1.5mm?

RAL

iTrader: (67)

You just have to try it. Sometimes yes sometimes no. There is no solid for sure answers in TC setup. You have to experiment and test for yourself. In some situations some things will work and some won't. Its a never ending exploration...

kschu

iTrader: (16)

vitomon,
i hv this setting,

remain the prev setting but only use 2mm shim in inner front camberlink,
4mm shim in inner rear camberlink

front sway bar 1.4mm, rear sway bar 1.4mm..

try it , let me know how it feel

RAL

iTrader: (67)

Did you use the kit servo horn?

RAL

iTrader: (67)

Try .5 Shims on top of the C-hub. Also Try Ride TC Pro Match Springs, RED, RED(same as hpi silver, silver). 6.4 Rear Block and change oil to 350, 400, or 450. I think the Yokomo guys running thick oil like 550 may be running larger holes such as 1.2mm. Hayato has told me that 1.0 piston holes with 350 or 450 feels like 500 or 550 with a 1.2 piston holes. He is using 1.2 holes I believe. You can also try lowering your inner camber link to 1mm all around.

Also, I don't know what shock hole you are at in the rear, but sometimes #4 in the rear and #3 in the front feels good. More steering and it feels more direct for me. I see some drivers using #2, #2 with soft setups. I have not tried that yet.

Mornedn

Hi guys
What handeling difference will the 44.2mm ff block make vs. the 43.5mm ff block on asphalt?

transplantlife

iTrader: (47)

Guys looking to get a wxi came across this site jus wondering if any of you have ordered from here???

http://www.etunpo.com/shop/index.php...ssvre4vjpost23

gom

iTrader: (1)

hi guys,

i am planning to purchase a bd5wxi soon. and i just need to clear a few things up before i make the purchase. i hope some one here can help.

Is Kshobby the only supplier for North America now? it seems that no body else sells yokomo car kits online. i am worry about parts support and the time it takes to ship stuff here from asia. is it practical to run a yokomo in North America considering the very limited parts support?

i really want to get a yokomo just because i am a fan. however, none of my LHS carry yokomo stuff. i am sure it's the same for many of you guys here on this forum. how do you guys manage to get the car kit and is the lack of part support bothering your race schedule?

mikeygar

iTrader: (14)

have the same problem here in the Philippines. KS, Hobby Haven and RCMarket are our best bets, but even if we're pretty near, customs gives a lot of problems when receiving items so when I order, I usually stock at least 3 or 4 of the most fragile parts. Order lots of C-hubs, front arms get the wide front plastic bumper and you should be fine. Suspension blocks, pins and a top deck and bottom deck too. Front axles (get the Spec-R V2 DCJ's). I've never broken a suspension tower but I've bent bulkheads. Rear arms only because I've cross threaded the shock screws…

Good luck!

Mornedn

Bump

transplantlife

iTrader: (47)