New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#376
for the topdeck ... not sure what could cause this
I'd jsut try to remove the bulkheads and put them on the chassi once again
I'd jsut try to remove the bulkheads and put them on the chassi once again
If the screws are put in from the rear bulkhead forward, the motor mount would flex as you tried to line up the holes on the front bulkheads as seen in the photo.
All this is carried out without tightening the screws, and I have removed and remounted the bulkheads and motor mount several times.
I have contacted RC Champ, and they have confirmed the message has been passed for further investigation.
The problem I face is I live in Australia and it will most likely cost me a fortune in shipping to get this right.
Owning 2 BD's and a several other Yokomo's over the years, it is noticable the difference in finish.
#378
internal ratio 2.0
#379
Interesting on the quality of the BD5. I have built my BD5 any didn't have any of the same issues. The anodizing all matches and seems high quality. My deck lines up perfectly. I also like the servo mount. I don't have pulley clearance issues for the center pulleys.
I was wondering if you had the front and rear (left and right) bulkheads in correctly. I almost put mine in wrong. I believe that may cause an alignment issue.
I was wondering if you had the front and rear (left and right) bulkheads in correctly. I almost put mine in wrong. I believe that may cause an alignment issue.
#380
RC Champ have been very helpful with relaying messages to and from Yokomo.
Though the issue has not been totally fixed yet, the problem lies in the motor mount area mounting to the lower deck. If you look at the photos, you can see a gap between the motor mount and the support brace which I filled witha 0.5mm shim. The lower screw hole does not line up with the chassis with the shim in place, but the top plate now fits perfect. The last photo shows the colour difference between the motor mount and the other parts
Though the issue has not been totally fixed yet, the problem lies in the motor mount area mounting to the lower deck. If you look at the photos, you can see a gap between the motor mount and the support brace which I filled witha 0.5mm shim. The lower screw hole does not line up with the chassis with the shim in place, but the top plate now fits perfect. The last photo shows the colour difference between the motor mount and the other parts
Last edited by fastolfart; 07-15-2010 at 02:03 AM.
#382
Its a Yomiya!
#383
Where did you get that spur gear?? It looks like it will work with the motor mount screws
#385
It needs the holes in it for the motor mount screws. The rm ones don't have it for the smaller gears.
#386
With the temporary fix to the motor mount, I ran the car last night and am very impressed with the performance. The car steers excellent and generally very stable and well balanced all round. As it was the first time out, I only ran a 17.5 motor to generally get a feel for the car.
The only changes made from kit setup are 1.3mm rear sway bar, 2mm spacer under the steering link servo ball stud and because of the hold up sorting the other problems, i used a set of Tamiya shock with white front and blue rear springs, 40 w oil & 2 hole pistons. Locked centre shaft and front spool.
I used a Mazda 6 body on a track suits the R9R or LTC bodies better.
The rear diff is one of the best I have ever come across, It is so smooth and free from a standard build with carbide balls with external adjustment, Yokomo should make some noise about the dust shielding provided by the shape of the out drives.
To put in a simply, I am impressed, now if the motor mount issues are fixed, I will by extremely happy.
The only changes made from kit setup are 1.3mm rear sway bar, 2mm spacer under the steering link servo ball stud and because of the hold up sorting the other problems, i used a set of Tamiya shock with white front and blue rear springs, 40 w oil & 2 hole pistons. Locked centre shaft and front spool.
I used a Mazda 6 body on a track suits the R9R or LTC bodies better.
The rear diff is one of the best I have ever come across, It is so smooth and free from a standard build with carbide balls with external adjustment, Yokomo should make some noise about the dust shielding provided by the shape of the out drives.
To put in a simply, I am impressed, now if the motor mount issues are fixed, I will by extremely happy.
#387
It needs the holes in it for the motor mount screws.
The spur gear in the photo is I think an RW 73t, 48 pitch spur. The maximum sized pinion I fit was a 34t. The motor adjustment does not have any were near the amount on the older BD.
#389
RC Champ have been very helpful with relaying messages to and from Yokomo.
Though the issue has not been totally fixed yet, the problem lies in the motor mount area mounting to the lower deck. If you look at the photos, you can see a gap between the motor mount and the support brace which I filled witha 0.5mm shim. The lower screw hole does not line up with the chassis with the shim in place, but the top plate now fits perfect. The last photo shows the colour difference between the motor mount and the other parts
Though the issue has not been totally fixed yet, the problem lies in the motor mount area mounting to the lower deck. If you look at the photos, you can see a gap between the motor mount and the support brace which I filled witha 0.5mm shim. The lower screw hole does not line up with the chassis with the shim in place, but the top plate now fits perfect. The last photo shows the colour difference between the motor mount and the other parts
From your pictures it looks like your .5 mm shim offsets the motor support brace towards the battery about the same amount. Why is there a problem then to just take the shim out? Or perhaps a thinner shim would solve the problem?
#390
From your pictures it looks like your .5 mm shim offsets the motor support brace towards the battery