eeyan

iTrader: (3)

But pricey...

g4t2

I'm afraid if you want luxuries...you gotta pay for 'em.

eeyan

iTrader: (3)

True... but dang, most I paid for a single chassis is $500... 414m2-WCR...

I wonder how much it is now? (probably less than a 415... Oh well...)

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

steve.. any word on the 415 preorders?

btw.. anymore room? izzy wants one too!

jeffreylin

Since Tamiya billed this as a kit for "advanced users," these spacers are almost necessary as they are used throughout for tuning and adjusting your car.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

jeff

how'd did u finish last night? 415 is looking good. PM me your set up so i can try it out

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Rainbowten has the OP687 rear hubs. Does anyone know if Tamiya makes the front C1 and C2 spindles in blue aluminium? And the part number? I know Square makes them in Red and Blue... but R10 was out of the Blue ones....

JRRobiso

Try checking Ebay for the rear hubs. I know two sellers from HongKong had it up for auction. Can't remember how much they were selling it & I also noticed they had spare parts for the TRF415 already too up for auction.

(Is it okay to mention EBay here?)

JRRobiso

Here's the link for the rear hubs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...gename=rvi:1:1

jeffreylin

I still cannot understand why the alumnium hubs. Other than the bling factor, can someone tell me what benefits they bring? 1 degree give you some tuning options but doesn't it carry extra unsprung weight? Also, in a bad crash, wouldn't the plastic one hold up better as alumnium might bend? Thanks!

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

jeff its always about the bling!

actually in a crash.. the alum. hubs will just transfer the damage somewhere else.. like the tires or the arms or something. id rather just carry $10 worth of spares for rear hubs instead of paying $30 for the alum. hubs.. then again.. they do look nice!

JRRobiso

I agree with you on that. I'd rather use the CGM rear uprights rather than aluminum. Aluminum may look way cool but not cost effective. It's the same reason(s) why racers never use aluminum wheels for racing. Even on monster trucks. But if we're going to talk about the front/rear bulkheads, I'd choose aluminum anytime over plastic or CGM plastic bulkheads.

But that's just my opinion.

Pyramid

Tamiya dont make one up to now.. But I think it`s better to change the Chub to aluminum for caster tuning option than the knuckle (C1/C2) since it host the bearings and axles.

For Chubs, find the one made by RACY, it`s much much better in finish quality than Square one.

RCY-RTA016 Racy, TB EVO Alu C-hub 5deg

jeffreylin

I guess it is about the bling...I am guilty myself (you saw the shocks last night). Anyway. This car is damn tough but my rims are taking all the hits now. I cracked 2 Tamiya rims last night during practice and race. I am going to try the Yokomo ones and see if they hold up better.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Beside bling it is also about tuning. The Alu hubs have 3 holes for the vertical ball stud. You can use the different lengths and also move the ball vertically. Jeff there might be a touch of weight penalty but also if the fine tuning is there the parts will stay on my car. For those who don't use them or don't want the alum parts, you have four current options for roll at the hub the 2d rear upright and the 1d that came on the 04 and the new 02. The link locations are different on each upright.

I have 2 sets coming 1 for the SE3 and 1 for the 415 when Fred gets them in. Rod any word yet?