Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#9091
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Thanks nexxus, I think I need the am17's because they are the original a700 dampers and from memory as I don't have them in front of me that part is fixed to the damper body ie one complete unit. I may have to check them again just to be sure unless you or someone else can confirm.
So the longer shock rods give you more adjustment?
So the longer shock rods give you more adjustment?
#9093
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Just built my set of 2.1 dampers, took a while, I noticed the cap is a bit tricky to screw down you have to make sure the o ring is level before you start screwing down as it's easy to cross thread. Also the o ring bearing and shim take a bit of work to get fully seated, and even when done they tend to pop back up. Am thinking I may fit a spr02 to each shock to sort of keep it all packed down tight and leave them on the bench a few days to test for leaks before fitting to the car.
(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
#9098
Tech Initiate
The top of the hub leaning forwards is negative caster and will shorten the wheel base. The top leaning backwards is positive (like the front suspension) and will lengthen the wheel base.
Also the wheelbase changes depending on which chassis you use.
I used to run 4 degree negative rear caster on the carbon a700ex chassis, but I've now fitted a aluminium chassis (C01AL-S2) and found the rear wheels didn't line up with the wheel arches. I now have to use 4 degrees positive rear caster to get the same wheelbase.
Also the wheelbase changes depending on which chassis you use.
I used to run 4 degree negative rear caster on the carbon a700ex chassis, but I've now fitted a aluminium chassis (C01AL-S2) and found the rear wheels didn't line up with the wheel arches. I now have to use 4 degrees positive rear caster to get the same wheelbase.
#9100
Tech Initiate
That's strange the front wheel are in the middle off the arches. I thought it was just the rear as I had to file the rear lower arm c04 slightly as they touched the rear bulkhead am43 with the RFG fitted.
#9101
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Just built my set of 2.1 dampers, took a while, I noticed the cap is a bit tricky to screw down you have to make sure the o ring is level before you start screwing down as it's easy to cross thread. Also the o ring bearing and shim take a bit of work to get fully seated, and even when done they tend to pop back up. Am thinking I may fit a spr02 to each shock to sort of keep it all packed down tight and leave them on the bench a few days to test for leaks before fitting to the car.
(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
(Used TLR 37.5 W oil which is around 500 cst)
.....with the lack of action here I almost feel like I should "have" the A800 but will prob wait until the later kits come out with these build issues sorted.
Can I use a spare ffg set I have to fit a rfg and only buy a few components rather than purchase a full kit?
#9102
Tech Initiate
#9103
Geat Chatter problem
I have a used 700 EVO1 with GD2 diff. I have a problem with significant gear chatter when first applying throttle. I have added a shim to the rear cone gear but still have the chatter. Any suggestions will be much appreciated. I've noticed that this chassis with the longitudinal motor setup is very difficult to achieve and confirm a proper gear mesh between the motor pinion and the spur gear.
#9104
Take the pinion off and roll the car. It should be plenty smooth despite being on the loud side.
Gear mesh is a little tougher to get right but make sure you're not too tight. I run without gear covers, my drivetrain is super smooth, but it is definitely louder than a belt car and is perfectly normal.
Gear mesh is a little tougher to get right but make sure you're not too tight. I run without gear covers, my drivetrain is super smooth, but it is definitely louder than a belt car and is perfectly normal.
#9105
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
I finally got to do a test run with my a700 after buying it 2nd hand and rebuilding it and I have virtually no drivetrain noise at all, I was actually quite surprised as I thought these things were supposed to be noisy. I didn't really have to much trouble with gear mesh either although I am running 48p gears.