KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

I have had the "same" car since 2012 and I still love my Awesomatix more than any touring car I have ever had. To go back to running something "regular" is just inconceivable for me. Before this weekend I hadn't raced since June, I put a setup on my car and it was nearly perfect and I was able to do very well.

trackout

Did that, a little concerned about how much material I had to ream out of the top bumper frame since the wider part of the body post is now half-way up the hole. Don't want to weaken the bumper significantly given my skills as a destructive testing specialist.

trackout

On a different note, tried setting up one of my chassis for USVTA racing, needed to add over 200g of weight which is really difficult on the CO1AL-S chassis since there isn't much space to stick ballast. Any chance of a tungsten and a steel version of the AM33-5? One which added 100g of additional weight for USVTA and a second that added 200g of additional weight for USVTA?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

C01al-s in vta... Wow
I'd recommend a ton of weight under receiver/ESC and behind the battery.

I layed at least one layer of weight under all my electronics when running a700l at snowbirds.

Oleg Babich

The bronze version of AM33-5 gives plus 58g.
Hard temper stainless steel for C01AL-S chassis gives plus 120g...170g depending on the cutouts area.

How many sets should we produce?

trackout

Hmmm, my thinking was the advantage of different versions of the AM33-5 for different classes with different weight limits (USGT, USVTA, CVTA) allowing quick change-outs. Although you'd have to change the chassis plate out the SS version would get you a much lower CG that putting the weight higher in the AM33-5. I'd certainly be willing to try a SS version of the chassis and the bronze brace so put me down for 2 each.

Oleg Babich

One more variant is the bronze plates with protrusions that correspond to the C01AL-S cutouts. Left and right plates are placed under battery and electronics and probably screwed to the AM33-5 with some gap to the chassis to provide the desirable chassis flex under such plates. It will give us also the "floating" mounting for battery and electronics.

Monti

iTrader: (44)

I think you are a little to high. I didn't add any spacers in the rear.

http://racepf.com/blog/2013/07/panzi...mmer-shootout/

This is a pic of my body and you can see there isn't much front lip left.

Hope this helps.

Monti

toroloco

Hi Oleg,

I think we need updated Setup sheets with all the new options of am33-5,
am30-5, front drive shafts, wheel hubs and chassis plates an top decks, gears choice for diffs?

Claude

trackout

Yeah for USGT I could lower it some more, for our club races that would be considered a slammed body since to looks trimmed above the lines. I'll give it a test this weekend and see if I can get it lower without rubbing the carpet.

Losi22

iTrader: (67)

Anyone know where you can get the 5.3mm ball cups? Awesomatix is out of them and I'm trying to get my car ready for vegas!

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

They are top ball ends, mayne try looking around for those

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

can you please tell me what's the difference between the newly released AM10-2 (updated steering plate) and the current AM10-1?

Thanks in advance,
G-rem

Oleg Babich

AM10-2 is a stiffer version of AM10-1.
The stiffness was increased by removing the cutout and by the increased thickness.

bhambrent

iTrader: (11)

Want to congratulate Brad Johnson on his TC 17.5 win at the U.S VTA southern Nat's..And also Thank him for his help as well.