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Have you tried running it while it sits on a stand to see what is causing the wobble? It could be a bad wheel or tire that may be causing it.
Also do you have a setup station to check if everything is aligned? Also do you have droop guages to see if you're getting equal droop on both sides? One last thing, did you build it with the same suspension arm holders for both left and right? There's three different holders for different roll centers. |
What I have found so far.I removed all the toe-in in the rear.The wobble went away.I slowly added tow-in until it started again.Then I took out tow until went away.I also see that the kit has 0 degree uprights in the rear.This car has 1 degree uprights.Could the 1 degree uprights combined with the spacers that the instruction manual tells you to install cause too much rear toe in? I dan't have a setup station.I do have a droop gauge. it is setup right in that respect.The suspension arm holders are the same.They are the ones with with the holes in the center.The tires are fine. I have 18 sets of tires.I tried different ones.Just looking at the rear toe from above the car,it doesen't look like it has much toe-in compared to other cars I have owned.But if I try to put more in it the wobble will come back.I should invest in a setup station so I will know exactly how much is in it.I will know how much traction it has when I take it to the track.I had a Shuie with tons of rear toe.It tracked straight with no wobble.This car dosen't seem to like much rear toe in.One advantage this car does have, it's durability.It is rock solid in that department.
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
(Post 10610592)
In my opinion there is no need for a gear diff if the car doesn't already have it. In my opinion a gear diff has a better feeling when pulling out of slow corners, but the agony some people have with snapping rear belts (including myself at the moment) simply isn't worth it
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
(Post 10610688)
Gear diff is not that it is cracked up to be. Its just a trend. Ball diffs are easier to adjust and to tune. I really don't see a need for gear diffs unless you're running a very hot wind modified motor. Even so, I'm currently running a 5.5T mod in my 009 with a ball diff and it works fine. Just spend a little more on the better carbon diff balls and rings.
They are consistant through a run, and prided you use the Xray diff you wont have to touch it for months (mine didn't lose any oil for 7 months!) which means it will be exactly the same run after run. 'Easier to adjust', once set you don't have to adjust anything. They give much better traction out of slower corners and help to put the power down. And to cap it all, the gear diff is 10g lighter than the ball diff. P.S. I have only snapped 2 rear belts in over 18 months |
Originally Posted by tc3jp
(Post 10791605)
What I have found so far.I removed all the toe-in in the rear.The wobble went away.I slowly added tow-in until it started again.Then I took out tow until went away.I also see that the kit has 0 degree uprights in the rear.This car has 1 degree uprights.Could the 1 degree uprights combined with the spacers that the instruction manual tells you to install cause too much rear toe in? I dan't have a setup station.I do have a droop gauge. it is setup right in that respect.The suspension arm holders are the same.They are the ones with with the holes in the center.The tires are fine. I have 18 sets of tires.I tried different ones.Just looking at the rear toe from above the car,it doesen't look like it has much toe-in compared to other cars I have owned.But if I try to put more in it the wobble will come back.I should invest in a setup station so I will know exactly how much is in it.I will know how much traction it has when I take it to the track.I had a Shuie with tons of rear toe.It tracked straight with no wobble.This car dosen't seem to like much rear toe in.One advantage this car does have, it's durability.It is rock solid in that department.
I experienced the same thing when i rebuilt my 009 last year and for me, the wobble was due to the fact that the right rear arm didn't have free movement. When this was done, the wobble was gone. You may wish to try this to your car. |
Originally Posted by Skiddins
(Post 10791670)
There is a reason that the top drivers are all using gear diffs.
They are consistant through a run, and prided you use the Xray diff you wont have to touch it for months (mine didn't lose any oil for 7 months!) which means it will be exactly the same run after run. 'Easier to adjust', once set you don't have to adjust anything. They give much better traction out of slower corners and help to put the power down. And to cap it all, the gear diff is 10g lighter than the ball diff. P.S. I have only snapped 2 rear belts in over 18 months |
Originally Posted by Skiddins
(Post 10791670)
P.S. I have only snapped 2 rear belts in over 18 months
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tc3jp - I have 2deg rear uprights on mine. No wobble.
Also, despite what the instruction manual says, try using little to no shims on the suspension holders. I've been told by the faster guys that the car runs better when its narrower. |
chassis
who does aftermarket chassis for t2-009 other than exotek ???
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1 Attachment(s)
I am fairly new to RC and was wanting to try it out.
I recently acquired a Xray T2 009. I have been informed it is a US Foam edition. (don't really know the differences). The local track is a 70X45 ozite carpet race surface. Attachment 1212840 I was wondering if you could suggest a good setup to start with for this car considering the car, size and type of track. Currently it is equipped with a Tekin RS Pro ESC and Novak Ballistic 21.5T brushless motor. I have also download the software for the ESC but have no idea what I'm doing. I was hoping someone could suggest a setup to start with. I also see talk of running a solid axle in the front. Currently I have ball diff in both front and rear. Is this fine or should I switch it? Thank you in advance for your help, |
Originally Posted by xTc_d3ToX
(Post 13383242)
I am fairly new to RC and was wanting to try it out.
I recently acquired a Xray T2 009. I have been informed it is a US Foam edition. (don't really know the differences). The local track is a 70X45 ozite carpet race surface. Attachment 1212840 I was wondering if you could suggest a good setup to start with for this car considering the car, size and type of track. Currently it is equipped with a Tekin RS Pro ESC and Novak Ballistic 21.5T brushless motor. I have also download the software for the ESC but have no idea what I'm doing. I was hoping someone could suggest a setup to start with. I also see talk of running a solid axle in the front. Currently I have ball diff in both front and rear. Is this fine or should I switch it? Thank you in advance for your help, Foam edition is basically a carpet car, thicker lower deck, heavier springs/sway bars etc so you're on the right path Start of with the ball diffs f&r as you'll be able to adjust them easily to suit the track, start off tight front, loose"ish" rear & go from there, refer the Xray set-up booklet if you have one or download from TeamXray site, where you'll also be able to get a start set up for that model. Consult someone at the track as to what's the best set up for the Tekin/motor combo you have & which best suits the track, they should also be able to point you in the right direction on which foams to use Hope this helps...:nod: |
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