You mean that little plastic piece that goes onto the drive shaft?

http://www.nexusracing.com/images/305241.jpg

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=1555

Yep those are the one's.Thanks dude.

Hi all! Sorry for storming in as a complete noob! I have zero experience with touring, and want to get going (got a couple of years of off road racing). People tell me to buy a used competition car instead of a new plastic piece for the same amount.

I have been offered an Xray T2 007 with plenty of spare parts, an ESC and good SAVOX servo for ~$280.

A couple of questions to you experts:
* First of all, is it too old? Will I be able to get spareparts without robbing a bank (where)?
* Since this is a 009 thread, does all the tips & trix in this thread, and hopup, apply to 007?
* Apparently it's ball diff on the car atm. I've heard alot about those, that you need to tweak, retune every 3 batteries. Is that true? And if so, can I buy gear diffs? (Again, without robbing banks).
* Maybe no one of you have experience of it. But a T2 007 compared to for instance a Tamiya TA-06? 3Racing Sakura Zero? Tamiya TRF415?
* Last, but not least, motor combo (how many A's and kv's)?

BIG THANK YOU in advance! Help me get up to speed with this flat surface racing! :)

/Johan
Sweden

There are still parts available at various websites. IMO an 007 for 280 is too much even with those extras, unless it's like a tekin rs pro esc or something to that nature... To be honest, you at least want an 008. The car was Redisigned in 008, and most of the parts are interchangeable all the way up to the '12. Go to teamxray.com and you will find all the info you need. The xray lineup throughout the years are very easy to understand if you just read about them.

If you have a good local Xray dealer, you will have no problems with parts. I order parts for my T1 FK without problems from my dealer. Stay with the ball diff, the only problem for it is that it needs to be maintained occasionaly and when you rebuild it, you will have to set it up on your track for the right feeling. A good side is that you won't break as much belts as gear diffs do ;). The car can be and is competitive, don't get lost in "new car" mania. Your car has most of the parts same as any platform T2 , and quite a lot of those which are the same as the T3. Just make sure you do a thorough inspection when buying used- check the condition of the belts, pulleys, shocks, inspect are the arms or C-hubs worn or have any sign of damag etc. In most cases, you can't go wrong with used Xrays

Like Slo_E4 said, get an 008 on up. Many parts are compatible from 008 chassis with current T3 2012 chassis. Especially upgrades such as the gear diffs. You can get an 008 or 009 just as cheap or even cheaper than that 007 offer. Just look around.

As the guys above said, 008 and 009 are a better choice if you can find them ;)

Yea that's the only problem. Never see any decent one's for sale anymore.

Thanks guys!!
I'm just getting so lost in this touring djungle! You probably got the question a 1000 times. What other car, new or used, would you then recommend for ~$300, since I can't find a 008 or 009 anywhere?

But, the question kind of remains. Is it worth it to switch to gear diffs? If it can be done at all?

In my opinion there is no need for a gear diff if the car doesn't already have it. In my opinion a gear diff has a better feeling when pulling out of slow corners, but the agony some people have with snapping rear belts (including myself at the moment) simply isn't worth it

Gear diff is not that it is cracked up to be. Its just a trend. Ball diffs are easier to adjust and to tune. I really don't see a need for gear diffs unless you're running a very hot wind modified motor. Even so, I'm currently running a 5.5T mod in my 009 with a ball diff and it works fine. Just spend a little more on the better carbon diff balls and rings.

What in Gods creation could be causing the rear end to wobble on my car?You can just roll it across a table and see it wobble, and it pulls to the right. It is built according to the instruction manual.I am heading to the XRAY forums now to see if I can dig anything up.But in the meantime if anybody knows anything please post any suggestions or solutions you might know of.

regards jimmy.p.

A bent axle is the first thing that comes to mind. A bad hub bearing could cause it to pull to one side.

No bent anything.Bearings are brand new and they are good.I am currently going over the car with a fine tooth comb.It is a severe wobble and a severe pull to the right under hard excelleration.Wierd is the only term I can come up with.I have a smooth lot next door I am taking it too to test the changes I am making, to try and solve this headache.It's a fantastic durable car so far.I have noticed that one wheel on the rear is pointing inward more than the other,I am trying to sand the shims down to see if it helps.