Tekin RS ESC sensored
11-12-2009, 07:02 PM
#8101
Only 4 LEDs is cold for the RS, i suspect you need to crank up the timing.... What do you have it currently on?
For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.
When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.
When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
11-12-2009, 07:14 PM
#8104
What does it do? I haven't run a brushed motor in so long I forgot...
11-12-2009, 07:39 PM
#8105
Make sure you turn off push control w/ brushless, cuz you will loose drag brakes. That what I found With push control. Brushed I dont know either, havent used brushed over a year!!
11-12-2009, 07:45 PM
#8106
Push control is active in both brushed AND brushless mode.
It's the exact opposite of drag brake. There has been a current trend in 1/12 to use a bit of push control to carry more corner speed.
It's the exact opposite of drag brake. There has been a current trend in 1/12 to use a bit of push control to carry more corner speed.
11-12-2009, 07:54 PM
#8107
I have 2 12th scales set up with the same motor. I have to turn off push control to have Drag brake. Any amount of push control I loose all drag brakes completely. I have to turn push control off.
11-12-2009, 08:24 PM
#8109
You have no drag brakes because as randy says its the opposite of it. At idle the car will continue to roll instead of braking.
Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.
Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.
Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
11-12-2009, 08:39 PM
#8110
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
To mikky:
Yeap I converted the percentages to degrees (0.3 deg/percent?)
The fan that cools my motor cools the ESC too and I run dual Tekin caps. The wierd thing is that I started off with a 28T pinion and a 105T spur. Now I am running a 29T pinion and a 101T spur and the gain in speed isn't very noticeable. Oddly though the punch seems to have improved although I am geared heavier now.
Regarding the 5.5T and 5T being similiar, the 5T is rated at 7100kV and the 5.5T is rated for 6000kV. Is this consider similiar in brushless terms?
To kn7671:
Nope different body and different car (TA05 IFSR (me) vs T2R Pro (other guy)). Ride height is similiar and I have a lower profile body (me thinks) than the opposition. Weight is unknown but technically speaking weight just means you need more time to get to max speed given that the available space is infinite. I basically max out after slightly more than 50% of the straightaway.
Yeap I converted the percentages to degrees (0.3 deg/percent?)
The fan that cools my motor cools the ESC too and I run dual Tekin caps. The wierd thing is that I started off with a 28T pinion and a 105T spur. Now I am running a 29T pinion and a 101T spur and the gain in speed isn't very noticeable. Oddly though the punch seems to have improved although I am geared heavier now.
Regarding the 5.5T and 5T being similiar, the 5T is rated at 7100kV and the 5.5T is rated for 6000kV. Is this consider similiar in brushless terms?
To kn7671:
Nope different body and different car (TA05 IFSR (me) vs T2R Pro (other guy)). Ride height is similiar and I have a lower profile body (me thinks) than the opposition. Weight is unknown but technically speaking weight just means you need more time to get to max speed given that the available space is infinite. I basically max out after slightly more than 50% of the straightaway.
11-12-2009, 08:48 PM
#8111
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Only 4 LEDs is cold for the RS, i suspect you need to crank up the timing.... What do you have it currently on?
For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.
When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.
When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
11-13-2009, 01:18 AM
#8112
You have no drag brakes because as randy says its the opposite of it. At idle the car will continue to roll instead of braking.
Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.
Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.
Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
11-13-2009, 06:12 AM
#8113
Tech Master
Radwerx, in the dual mode you set the timing from 0 to 100.
You can higher it so long the motor temp is not coming above the 80 degrees.
Also watch the speedo. Watch the temp of the speedo. You can count the leds on it. Keep the radio and car on and each time the lights flashes from the middle to the side. There you see several lights light up. count them and keep them below the 6.
Solong that is ok you can gear heavier and ad up some timing.
Do it in small steps and check each time the motor temp and the speedo temp.
With a fan you can keep the speedo cooler.
Just do what mangoman already posted. It works great and it's better for your speedo.
60 degrees is to low for a 5,5T. You will not go as fast as a 5T but you can come quit close to it.
You can higher it so long the motor temp is not coming above the 80 degrees.
Also watch the speedo. Watch the temp of the speedo. You can count the leds on it. Keep the radio and car on and each time the lights flashes from the middle to the side. There you see several lights light up. count them and keep them below the 6.
Solong that is ok you can gear heavier and ad up some timing.
Do it in small steps and check each time the motor temp and the speedo temp.
With a fan you can keep the speedo cooler.
Just do what mangoman already posted. It works great and it's better for your speedo.
60 degrees is to low for a 5,5T. You will not go as fast as a 5T but you can come quit close to it.
11-13-2009, 08:04 AM
#8114
Hey guys, yesterday was my first day running my RS and I was quit impressed with its performance however I had some issues with it. When I would turn the radio and esc on I could not get the esc to power the motor. I was getting the error code which had the first 3 led's light up which looking through the manual says that the radio voltage is low however I had around 10v still left in my radio. To fix it I would have to re-calibrate the radio to the esc and then it would work fine until the next time I turned the esc on. Does anyone know what causes this? Is the radio voltage really to low for the esc?
11-13-2009, 08:34 AM
#8115
Hey guys, yesterday was my first day running my RS and I was quit impressed with its performance however I had some issues with it. When I would turn the radio and esc on I could not get the esc to power the motor. I was getting the error code which had the first 3 led's light up which looking through the manual says that the radio voltage is low however I had around 10v still left in my radio. To fix it I would have to re-calibrate the radio to the esc and then it would work fine until the next time I turned the esc on. Does anyone know what causes this? Is the radio voltage really to low for the esc?