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Old 11-12-2009, 08:02 PM   #8101
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Only 4 LEDs is cold for the RS, i suspect you need to crank up the timing.... What do you have it currently on?

For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.

When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:08 PM   #8102
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Can someone explain what exactly Push Control does?? some people told me that you only use it with brushed motors, and I also been told that with Brushless motors you get more punch

Thanks,
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:12 PM   #8103
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it is also known as anti drag brake,push adds small amounts of power to the motor depending on how much the value is you use,its kinda like having your throttle center on the + side
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:14 PM   #8104
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Can someone explain what exactly Push Control does?? some people told me that you only use it with brushed motors, and I also been told that with Brushless motors you get more punch

Thanks,
Push control only works with brushed. It does nothing if you are running brushless.

What does it do? I haven't run a brushed motor in so long I forgot...
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:39 PM   #8105
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Push control only works with brushed. It does nothing if you are running brushless.

What does it do? I haven't run a brushed motor in so long I forgot...
Make sure you turn off push control w/ brushless, cuz you will loose drag brakes. That what I found With push control. Brushed I dont know either, havent used brushed over a year!!
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:45 PM   #8106
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Push control is active in both brushed AND brushless mode.

It's the exact opposite of drag brake. There has been a current trend in 1/12 to use a bit of push control to carry more corner speed.
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:54 PM   #8107
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Push control is active in both brushed AND brushless mode.

It's the exact opposite of drag brake. There has been a current trend in 1/12 to use a bit of push control to carry more corner speed.
Randy

I have 2 12th scales set up with the same motor. I have to turn off push control to have Drag brake. Any amount of push control I loose all drag brakes completely. I have to turn push control off.
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:58 PM   #8108
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it seems to be more for the driver that uses very little braking they scrub speed to slow down.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:24 PM   #8109
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You have no drag brakes because as randy says its the opposite of it. At idle the car will continue to roll instead of braking.

Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.

Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:39 PM   #8110
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To mikky:

Yeap I converted the percentages to degrees (0.3 deg/percent?)
The fan that cools my motor cools the ESC too and I run dual Tekin caps. The wierd thing is that I started off with a 28T pinion and a 105T spur. Now I am running a 29T pinion and a 101T spur and the gain in speed isn't very noticeable. Oddly though the punch seems to have improved although I am geared heavier now.

Regarding the 5.5T and 5T being similiar, the 5T is rated at 7100kV and the 5.5T is rated for 6000kV. Is this consider similiar in brushless terms?

To kn7671:

Nope different body and different car (TA05 IFSR (me) vs T2R Pro (other guy)). Ride height is similiar and I have a lower profile body (me thinks) than the opposition. Weight is unknown but technically speaking weight just means you need more time to get to max speed given that the available space is infinite. I basically max out after slightly more than 50% of the straightaway.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:48 PM   #8111
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Only 4 LEDs is cold for the RS, i suspect you need to crank up the timing.... What do you have it currently on?

For mod you should be running in dual mode (which i suspect you are) but they used to have timing guides for motors which i think are guides for off-road usage.

When you start pushing the timing up keep an eye on the esc and motor temp. But generally most on road timings start to end up at around the 80-90 mark. For mod applications it is suggested you have a fan blowing across the solder posts, which double as cooling heatsinks. If nothing else at least make sure the posts face out of the car for cooling (hope that makes sense).
Hi mangoman, timing is currently in the vicinity of 30+ percent. I'm worried about turning it too high since my wires are already rather hot after 5 to 10 mins. Not sure if I might melt the solder if I turn the timing up even further, even though the esc and motor are cool. The fan portion I've got it covered with a high rpm screamer that sounds like a radiator fan once I turn on the power. It cools the motor and esc. Not sure if this masks the true temperature of the motor and misleads me during the tuning process.
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:18 AM   #8112
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You have no drag brakes because as randy says its the opposite of it. At idle the car will continue to roll instead of braking.

Dont know if its the same thing over there, but where i am we refer to it as creep. Which i guess means the car will creep slightly instead of standing still.
The car should still slow down off throttle but wont bog down as much.

Ive only ever seen it used in 540 silver can, where the motor has no punch so you try to maintain whatever corner speed you have, but i aint seen it used in a while either.
+1, or 27t with a very flowing track and maybe even a 1 way in there to keep the speeds up.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:12 AM   #8113
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Radwerx, in the dual mode you set the timing from 0 to 100.
You can higher it so long the motor temp is not coming above the 80 degrees.
Also watch the speedo. Watch the temp of the speedo. You can count the leds on it. Keep the radio and car on and each time the lights flashes from the middle to the side. There you see several lights light up. count them and keep them below the 6.
Solong that is ok you can gear heavier and ad up some timing.
Do it in small steps and check each time the motor temp and the speedo temp.
With a fan you can keep the speedo cooler.
Just do what mangoman already posted. It works great and it's better for your speedo.
60 degrees is to low for a 5,5T. You will not go as fast as a 5T but you can come quit close to it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:04 AM   #8114
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Hey guys, yesterday was my first day running my RS and I was quit impressed with its performance however I had some issues with it. When I would turn the radio and esc on I could not get the esc to power the motor. I was getting the error code which had the first 3 led's light up which looking through the manual says that the radio voltage is low however I had around 10v still left in my radio. To fix it I would have to re-calibrate the radio to the esc and then it would work fine until the next time I turned the esc on. Does anyone know what causes this? Is the radio voltage really to low for the esc?
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:34 AM   #8115
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Originally Posted by Stlfc View Post
Hey guys, yesterday was my first day running my RS and I was quit impressed with its performance however I had some issues with it. When I would turn the radio and esc on I could not get the esc to power the motor. I was getting the error code which had the first 3 led's light up which looking through the manual says that the radio voltage is low however I had around 10v still left in my radio. To fix it I would have to re-calibrate the radio to the esc and then it would work fine until the next time I turned the esc on. Does anyone know what causes this? Is the radio voltage really to low for the esc?
It is not the radio voltage that is low, but rather the signal the RS is seeing from the receiver is low. Before the RS will power the motor it needs to see neutral for a couple seconds when you first turn it on. This prevents runaway cars if you, say, have the wrong model selected on your radio or your holding full throttle accidentally. If you have an old radio or have your neutral bandwidth on the esc set very low you will have issues.
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