Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I guess something that you also need to take into consideration when doing your calculations.
Yes there is a prefered timing valve for each rpm range dependant on the resultant impedence of each stator at a given time. However this does not take into consideration the load on the motor.
The velocity of the motor and force required will also have to be calculated dependant on your f/d and roll out for the individual track and obvious weight of the car. This can/will also be dependant on where you are on the track, ie if you have just come out of a hairpin as aposed to a sweeper.
Ideally you would have to work out the maximum resultant rpm and the minimum and then calculate how much timing the motor can take without a torque stall.
This gets mentioned in a previous post.
This is the effect that people are experiencing where the car lacks punch in a slow section. The answer to that is too increase the rpm range. This is because the motor has too much timing for its current rpm. Too much timing and too much load, this creates a larger current draw and a bit heat and then when the motor catches up with itself away it goes.
Yes there is a prefered timing valve for each rpm range dependant on the resultant impedence of each stator at a given time. However this does not take into consideration the load on the motor.
The velocity of the motor and force required will also have to be calculated dependant on your f/d and roll out for the individual track and obvious weight of the car. This can/will also be dependant on where you are on the track, ie if you have just come out of a hairpin as aposed to a sweeper.
Ideally you would have to work out the maximum resultant rpm and the minimum and then calculate how much timing the motor can take without a torque stall.
This gets mentioned in a previous post.
This is the effect that people are experiencing where the car lacks punch in a slow section. The answer to that is too increase the rpm range. This is because the motor has too much timing for its current rpm. Too much timing and too much load, this creates a larger current draw and a bit heat and then when the motor catches up with itself away it goes.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Does anyone have any recommendations on improving this setup. Compared to some of the other tekins I seem to be a tad slower.
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (63)
Does anyone have any recommendations on improving this setup. Compared to some of the other tekins I seem to be a tad slower.
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
What hole on Motor timing Mannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
Boost maxed, motor maxed, turbo maxed, end rpm of 4000, fdr 3.5
plus got to change from an xray as well. to a tt-01
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Does anyone have any recommendations on improving this setup. Compared to some of the other tekins I seem to be a tad slower.
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50
turbo: 10
delay: .0
start: 2721
end: 10001
ramp: 3
Everyone looking for advice needs to include the brand/model of the motor, the turns, and the timing on the motor (along with the FDR and all ESC settings).
seems like 17.5 if so you have a few options pending if you like zero delay in red with delay blue
Does anyone have any recommendations on improving this setup. Compared to some of the other tekins I seem to be a tad slower.
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50 4545-50
turbo: 1015
delay: .0.4
start: 2721 5xxx4xxx
end: 100011300012000
ramp: 322
Here are my settings:
Car: XRAY009
Motor: DUO1
FDR: 5.54
Track: Very technical
Drag: off
brake: 100
nw: 10
motor: bl-fw
tp: 3
cut off: 6.430
push: off
timing: 50 4545-50
turbo: 1015
delay: .0.4
start: 2721 5xxx4xxx
end: 100011300012000
ramp: 322
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
I guess something that you also need to take into consideration when doing your calculations.
Yes there is a prefered timing valve for each rpm range dependant on the resultant impedence of each stator at a given time. However this does not take into consideration the load on the motor.
The velocity of the motor and force required will also have to be calculated dependant on your f/d and roll out for the individual track and obvious weight of the car. This can/will also be dependant on where you are on the track, ie if you have just come out of a hairpin as aposed to a sweeper.
Ideally you would have to work out the maximum resultant rpm and the minimum and then calculate how much timing the motor can take without a torque stall.
This gets mentioned in a previous post.
This is the effect that people are experiencing where the car lacks punch in a slow section. The answer to that is too increase the rpm range. This is because the motor has too much timing for its current rpm. Too much timing and too much load, this creates a larger current draw and a bit heat and then when the motor catches up with itself away it goes.
Yes there is a prefered timing valve for each rpm range dependant on the resultant impedence of each stator at a given time. However this does not take into consideration the load on the motor.
The velocity of the motor and force required will also have to be calculated dependant on your f/d and roll out for the individual track and obvious weight of the car. This can/will also be dependant on where you are on the track, ie if you have just come out of a hairpin as aposed to a sweeper.
Ideally you would have to work out the maximum resultant rpm and the minimum and then calculate how much timing the motor can take without a torque stall.
This gets mentioned in a previous post.
This is the effect that people are experiencing where the car lacks punch in a slow section. The answer to that is too increase the rpm range. This is because the motor has too much timing for its current rpm. Too much timing and too much load, this creates a larger current draw and a bit heat and then when the motor catches up with itself away it goes.
When I made my extensions I cut off broken/old servo's leads and used this kit for a clean install at any length I wanted:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPNT9&P=7\
That and I'm such a cheapskate I'd rather spend 2 hours wiring up 5 jumpers for all my cars than spend the extra $10 on new leads.
Tech Apprentice
10.5 large asphalt track
Hi guys,
Anyone have a good tekin rs pro starting point for a large asphalt track with a massive straight?
Any help would be great.
Anyone have a good tekin rs pro starting point for a large asphalt track with a massive straight?
Any help would be great.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
There are multiple setups on literally every page of this thread. If you browse around or use the search function I believe you will find many 10.5 setups.
Tech Master
I use 13.5, not 10.5 so don't have an exact set-up. I believe 10.5 is on the verge of dual-mode verses full sensored.
We have a very large outdoor track with a 160ft straight, and this is how my 13.5 is set up.
Redline 13.5, 6 deg motor timing, 5.95 FDR
NW 12
Boost 20
Turbo Max
Delay 0.7
Ramp 1
Start RPM 4000
End RPM 16000
The motor runs fairly cool (45 to 55ºC), and there is scope for more motor timing to get some more RPM out of it, but I like the way it runs now.
If you are running a 10.5 in sensored mode, start with the above, but up the end RPM a bit, have an FDR around 7.0, and see how that goes.
We have a very large outdoor track with a 160ft straight, and this is how my 13.5 is set up.
Redline 13.5, 6 deg motor timing, 5.95 FDR
NW 12
Boost 20
Turbo Max
Delay 0.7
Ramp 1
Start RPM 4000
End RPM 16000
The motor runs fairly cool (45 to 55ºC), and there is scope for more motor timing to get some more RPM out of it, but I like the way it runs now.
If you are running a 10.5 in sensored mode, start with the above, but up the end RPM a bit, have an FDR around 7.0, and see how that goes.
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (6)
RS
New to the RS. Went through all of the troubleshooting and cant figure this out. Get the program hooked up, adjust the esc settings, hit the apply settings button and the esc flashes and goes blank and the hotwire light goes solid green but it wont update the esc. Esc was working yesterday, now it wont even run the motor and it wont reset. Anyone seen this?
Thanks Jr.
Thanks Jr.
New to the RS. Went through all of the troubleshooting and cant figure this out. Get the program hooked up, adjust the esc settings, hit the apply settings button and the esc flashes and goes blank and the hotwire light goes solid green but it wont update the esc. Esc was working yesterday, now it wont even run the motor and it wont reset. Anyone seen this?
Thanks Jr.
Thanks Jr.
Hope this helps.
Tech Initiate
I'm a new tekin user, any setup tips/ setting for your suggest in small track?
motor is Speedpassion ver3.0 17.5R...
thanks!
motor is Speedpassion ver3.0 17.5R...
thanks!
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (6)
What does it do when you turn it on and its hooked up to the receiver? I have accidentally flashed the rom by shorting the battery leads out. Actually I didn't do it but the tech guy did. Anyway, the servo worked but the controller would not run the motor. I hooked it up to the hotwire and click the default setting and updated the controller. After that I was able to get the other setting to work again. But it would not work until I went back to the factory setting.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Thanks