I updated today a 1:12 driver his speedo.
he was running the V198. I gave him the following setup.
Boost 18
Turbo max
Turbo delay 0,6
5.0 roll out
LRP 10,5 X11 motor.

He was impressed with the power.
Better acceleration and top speed.
I think that I will lower his Turbo delay to 0,4 because he was pulling good away out of the corners and the Turbo came in a bit late.
see what it does.

This is my setup that I ran today.
Also 10,5 LRP X11
Boost 18
Turbo max
Turbo delay 0,6 (When I lower it I lose a bit of infield speed.)
Gearing 7,3FDR

3th fasted lap today with just 0,04sec behind the second fastest lap and I lowered my lap time with 0,2sec.
Best top speed and great infield speed.
I'm just a bit faster than the SPX. I am losing in the corners on the 2 best drivers there but they are impressed about the power.

Tomorrow the race. The A final is in reach. My gaol is the top 5.

I switched from a Tekin 13.5 to a Duo 2 13.5 today and noticed something strange. My turbo was set to kick in at 1.2 seconds but on the Duo 2 it's not happening for almost 3 seconds. Top end felt lower on the track so I pulled it in and throttled it with the wheels off the ground and the turbo is kicking in really late. Anyone else come across this before when switching BL motor brands? I tried changing the turbo time by Hotwire but it doesnt seem to change. It's kicking in really late.

I'm recently back in the hobby after a 10 year break so brushless is new to me.

RS Pro settings did not change between motors. I had the 13.5 Tekin at 5 degrees on the motor and the 13.5 Duo 2 at the default motor timing as it was the first run.

Did you re-calibrate your radio to your speedo after making the Hotwire changes? If not, your speedo may not be seeing "full throttle". Give it a try.

Tekin guys,

My cousin told me that he accidently plugged in the battery to his RS with the polarity reversed for a short time (I'm posting for him because he dosen't have internet at his new apt yet). He immediately realized what he had done and unplugged it but not before a bit of smoke came out. He doesn't know where it came from though.

Thing is, he tells me that the car still worked fine after he corrected the polarity. Apparently he actually raced it after skipping a qual and couldn't notice any difference in performance. Throttle was smooth all the way up, turbo still kicked in, and the brakes still worked. Afterwards it still connected to Hotwire without any problems.

He's wondering if he should still send it in. Is it possible that something on the ESC is damaged yet still working? Or did he luck out?

Probably burned up only some of the FETs. Maybe it won't get any worse, maybe it will. All the FETs were stressed, only some failed, but the rest could be weakened, and will fail eventually. Send it in if it's still under warranty.

I really hope Tekin has an answer for CRC's new speedo that's going to be selling for $350. From everything I've seen it's a full lap better but that's way too much for a speed controller and will just kill the 1s classes IMO. For that price the car better almost near drive itself.

yea and for sedan the crc speedo 400 dollars. man thats more than a photon,phi2,tc5,and losi type r. i like to be competitive, but that not competitive.

I was under impression that if even one of the FETs was damaged, the ESC would show it in some way, like stuttering under load or whatnot. And I don't think user stupidity is covered under warranty :p.

Just curious after seeing your username.... are you on 3si?

+1
nothing about warranty ;)

Well, if some FETs were blown, you still might not see a drop in performance with a 17.5 motor. Just not pulling enough amps to see the increased resistance affect performance.

Yes, I am on 3Si. Proud owner of a '92 Stealth_RT/TT, that takes all my money that RC doesn't. Someday, I'll even finish the current project of fabbing an FMIC for it.

You're right, it's not covered under warranty. I would still call or email them about your problem. Some times they're so impressed that a customer owns up to a mistake that they will fix it. Not always...

The customer service is great and they can give a better direction on what makes sense for your situation.

factory default
 

This question is for Randy or anyone with a concrete answer. Why is the Redline motor's time set just past the 12 degree mark as a factory default? I wanted to set it to zero and then use my hotwire and computer to boost up the timing. Is this the correct way to go? thanks.

Go for it.

There’s no issue with Tekin setting 12 as default, this isn’t a sweet spot, or a safety thing for you to be concerned about, Something has to be set as default, and this is what they decided upon - A lot of fixed timing motors aren’t at 0deg, I expect Tekin found 12deg to be a nice 'out o the box' setup. Don’t worry though, heaps of people prefer to run zero on the motor and then add boost + turbo. There is no correct way or incorrect way... You run the settings that best suit your needs.

Consider your question the same as asking why your kit came with 2.5deg toe in at the rear. The other options are there – feel free to use them to optimise your usage.

what motor are you using,17.5 13.5. then go with 0-5 endbell and 25 boost with total at 30 between the two. play with the boost to get the feal in the infeild to your liking and then add turbo for the straights

Thanks everyone for the advice. Looking forward to getting it set-up.