Tekin RS ESC sensored
#6271
Kn7671 is on to it!
That is exactly what you should be looking for. Not so much a "shift" in speed rather a long hard continuous pull...
That is when the will be "deceptively" fast as you can't see the shift rather it just keeps on going....like the little pink bunny!
That is exactly what you should be looking for. Not so much a "shift" in speed rather a long hard continuous pull...
That is when the will be "deceptively" fast as you can't see the shift rather it just keeps on going....like the little pink bunny!
what in your opinion is best done in cases where the turbo coming in is.... too obvious?...
increase FDR or lower the boost? a combination of both?
g
#6273
Tech Master
I have my setup now like on smooth acceleration.
It's testing and trying to find a good balance.
Here is my setup with a Speedpassion motor on my home track.
It's not as smooth as the setup I use with my Tekin motor but this is the fastest setup I got with it for so far.
I try tomorrow a lower boost and a heavier lower FDR.
I use quit a high Boost because of the straight.
It's testing and trying to find a good balance.
Here is my setup with a Speedpassion motor on my home track.
It's not as smooth as the setup I use with my Tekin motor but this is the fastest setup I got with it for so far.
I try tomorrow a lower boost and a heavier lower FDR.
I use quit a high Boost because of the straight.
#6274
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Capt. : That's all I can ask for! Thanks. Please do let me know. If we have a calibration issue with a certain radio we need to track it down and correct it.
So far we've had only a few random configurations that have shown issues. Nomadios with an older receiver, a Ko on crystals(people still use these, LOL),etc.
The turbo isn't a light switch, you're right. It does take "so much time" to come on fully. This is why a balance of motor timing and timing boost must be found on each track. I'm betting that you're VERY close to your ideal setup but there is some more speed to be found.
So far we've had only a few random configurations that have shown issues. Nomadios with an older receiver, a Ko on crystals(people still use these, LOL),etc.
The turbo isn't a light switch, you're right. It does take "so much time" to come on fully. This is why a balance of motor timing and timing boost must be found on each track. I'm betting that you're VERY close to your ideal setup but there is some more speed to be found.
#6276
Captin can't lose his crystals he will lose his superpowers! What's a hero with out superpowers? Oops that was stnlyst. Dude lose the crystals!
#6278
Ok, if the car looks like it's lagging and THEN the turbo comes on the first thing I'm looking for is "how fast did it get to this point?"
If it got there in a hurry I'd try going up in gear first. Nothing huge here, one pinion or even a spur.
If it's a nice steady pull with a delay or flat spot add a bit of timing boost if the motor temps will allow.
So far most have noticed that when running 200 your motor runs a bit cooler since you should be running less timing boost to begin with.
This is where I use only a few degrees of change or gear...
If it got there in a hurry I'd try going up in gear first. Nothing huge here, one pinion or even a spur.
If it's a nice steady pull with a delay or flat spot add a bit of timing boost if the motor temps will allow.
So far most have noticed that when running 200 your motor runs a bit cooler since you should be running less timing boost to begin with.
This is where I use only a few degrees of change or gear...
#6279
Only when you are at 100% throttle for the length of the turbo delay time.
#6282
If captains problem is the radio, wouldn't it be more inconsistent? I find it hard to believe a radio will start wandering after 5 laps every single time. It just doesn't make much sense to me.
Here is something for everyone to test to see how turbo and boost works. Tune your FDR for all low end. Get all the low end power you can get. Then drive your car around the track. Then add boost. Right then and there you will see just how much boost timing helps. Then add turbo. Again, you will see the turbo kick. Drive like that for a few packs then take all the timing away again. Your car should feel really slow.
I think using 2nd gear is kinda drastic. If your car is geared properly it will smoothly pull down the strait. If you really want your car to look like it shifts gears, gear for all bottom end again, 0 boost, and full turbo. Your car will look like it hit 2nd gear. It just won't necessarily be fast around the track.
I know I keep saying it, but I am going to say it again. The time it takes to hit full turbo is just too slow. Based on responses, I have to believe it is made that way to be stupid proof. Just for shits and giggles I bench timed how long it takes to get full timing from when full throttle is hit. With full boost and full turbo, it takes ~1.5sec. With 0 boost and 1 turbo, I can't even tell...lol. With 15 boost and 1 turbo, it takes ~.7 sec.
Go ahead and give it a try if you guys want. See if your results are the same as mine. The thing to remember here is this is with no load. I would imagine that load would add a good amount of time. I'm going to guess even as much as another .5 sec. Now we are talking 2.2sec before we can get full HP! That is a very long strait.
Now here is another test when you get to the track if you don't have a huge strait. Gear your FDR and boost like normal. Then add turbo by maybe 5 degrees at a time. You will find that at a certain point, turbo makes no affect. Why? Because you never pull your trigger full throttle for that long. At my track, norcal hobbies, I found that 10 turbo and that was it. It didn't matter if I put 10 or max. My speed and temp seemed to be the same.
Again, I am going to repeat this...
If I am able to hit full RPMs in less than .5 sec, why can't I get turbo sooner? Why can't it peak sooner?
If there is a logical answer to this, I'll leave it alone. If I can't get an answer, I really don't know what to say.
--pakk
Here is something for everyone to test to see how turbo and boost works. Tune your FDR for all low end. Get all the low end power you can get. Then drive your car around the track. Then add boost. Right then and there you will see just how much boost timing helps. Then add turbo. Again, you will see the turbo kick. Drive like that for a few packs then take all the timing away again. Your car should feel really slow.
I think using 2nd gear is kinda drastic. If your car is geared properly it will smoothly pull down the strait. If you really want your car to look like it shifts gears, gear for all bottom end again, 0 boost, and full turbo. Your car will look like it hit 2nd gear. It just won't necessarily be fast around the track.
I know I keep saying it, but I am going to say it again. The time it takes to hit full turbo is just too slow. Based on responses, I have to believe it is made that way to be stupid proof. Just for shits and giggles I bench timed how long it takes to get full timing from when full throttle is hit. With full boost and full turbo, it takes ~1.5sec. With 0 boost and 1 turbo, I can't even tell...lol. With 15 boost and 1 turbo, it takes ~.7 sec.
Go ahead and give it a try if you guys want. See if your results are the same as mine. The thing to remember here is this is with no load. I would imagine that load would add a good amount of time. I'm going to guess even as much as another .5 sec. Now we are talking 2.2sec before we can get full HP! That is a very long strait.
Now here is another test when you get to the track if you don't have a huge strait. Gear your FDR and boost like normal. Then add turbo by maybe 5 degrees at a time. You will find that at a certain point, turbo makes no affect. Why? Because you never pull your trigger full throttle for that long. At my track, norcal hobbies, I found that 10 turbo and that was it. It didn't matter if I put 10 or max. My speed and temp seemed to be the same.
Again, I am going to repeat this...
If I am able to hit full RPMs in less than .5 sec, why can't I get turbo sooner? Why can't it peak sooner?
If there is a logical answer to this, I'll leave it alone. If I can't get an answer, I really don't know what to say.
--pakk
#6283
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
to randy.
does the turbo kick in after the MOTOR is at 100% speed? or does the speed control try to ramp up the speed of the motor after the TRIGGER is at 100%
the reason I ask is because if you are set / geared / delayed wrong and its based off of trigger, then the timing advance will happen while the motor is still ramping up speed and you will lose power / torque.
please correct me if i have missed something.
does the turbo kick in after the MOTOR is at 100% speed? or does the speed control try to ramp up the speed of the motor after the TRIGGER is at 100%
the reason I ask is because if you are set / geared / delayed wrong and its based off of trigger, then the timing advance will happen while the motor is still ramping up speed and you will lose power / torque.
please correct me if i have missed something.
#6284
Pakk: We can't reveal everything we're doing. Your "theory" is logical for the most part.
Capt's Radio/ESC issue can be related to heat though. When things get warm resistance does change a bit, sometimes "just enough." I have seen some radio's be more sensitive than others. I give Clint a tough time about his "choice" of radio at often.
You are correct in stating that on Norcal's current layout that you may never reach full turbo. There is no harm setting it on full however as if you got a killer drive out of the 180 before it you might get to say 11 degrees versus your setting of 10. If the current layout was to say have a sweeper preceeding that straight you very well might get to full turbo.
Why can't you have it earlier? Great question. If we allowed you to get this much timing sooner you could potentially add so much timing you would literally melt the motor down. Under speed on the track too much timing is often not "felt" as cogging or miscomutation since the car is moving. However this is "seen" in super high motor temps that are out of the ordinary.
If you need more timing before this delay you should be able to get what you need using motor timing and or boost timing. It's often overlooked on motors that some use since you're stuck with "holes" or "positions." If you look at a few of our team drivers setups from tracks like Norcal or Speedworld you will see motor timing around 10 degrees or a bit more.
If someone were to say run .3 on the delay along with 10 on the motor and 20 on timing boost on a track that had only an 80ft straight away this would be most likely result in a motor failure. We didn't limit you to .5 because you're trustworthy, rather because if you need it sooner than this motor timing and timing boost should cover this timeframe.
I can't go into more detail as this will give away information that is valuable to R&D. We're constantly making changes that benefit the racer. Perhaps this is just a "taste" of what's to come....
Capt's Radio/ESC issue can be related to heat though. When things get warm resistance does change a bit, sometimes "just enough." I have seen some radio's be more sensitive than others. I give Clint a tough time about his "choice" of radio at often.
You are correct in stating that on Norcal's current layout that you may never reach full turbo. There is no harm setting it on full however as if you got a killer drive out of the 180 before it you might get to say 11 degrees versus your setting of 10. If the current layout was to say have a sweeper preceeding that straight you very well might get to full turbo.
Why can't you have it earlier? Great question. If we allowed you to get this much timing sooner you could potentially add so much timing you would literally melt the motor down. Under speed on the track too much timing is often not "felt" as cogging or miscomutation since the car is moving. However this is "seen" in super high motor temps that are out of the ordinary.
If you need more timing before this delay you should be able to get what you need using motor timing and or boost timing. It's often overlooked on motors that some use since you're stuck with "holes" or "positions." If you look at a few of our team drivers setups from tracks like Norcal or Speedworld you will see motor timing around 10 degrees or a bit more.
If someone were to say run .3 on the delay along with 10 on the motor and 20 on timing boost on a track that had only an 80ft straight away this would be most likely result in a motor failure. We didn't limit you to .5 because you're trustworthy, rather because if you need it sooner than this motor timing and timing boost should cover this timeframe.
I can't go into more detail as this will give away information that is valuable to R&D. We're constantly making changes that benefit the racer. Perhaps this is just a "taste" of what's to come....
#6285
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