Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (12)
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
This is what I've done in my sprint car
Tech Master
iTrader: (62)
where are you guys getting your fans from to use near or on these esc's?
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
Here's the one I'm using
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXARDS&P=7
They also make a low profile version...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXARDS&P=7
They also make a low profile version...
Tech Fanatic
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
With Thailands TITC event only a month away I am double checking everything is set to go. I'm currently happy with my software settings, tho on a hot day seeing 75'c is a little high, but these settings are for the SP13.5MMM motor and not the V3.0 control motor. So who is going over to the event and is willing to share settings?
Thanks in advance,
Michael.
Thanks in advance,
Michael.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
17.5 Boosted
Looking for a speedo setup and fdr for boosted 17.5! Thanks
Tech Regular
Are we ever going to see this new software, seems to be taking a very long time
If you were to use a 17.5 with RS for drift, could you run a boosted profile? And if you could, what sort of setup would it look like?
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Anyone have a good starting setup for 13.5 Orion motor, stock endbell timing, Durango 210 (2.6 FDR) and 75T spur?
Looking for more low in punch and want to know how high of an rpm I can run a 13.5 with timing. Currently set at 15k and I'm pretty sure I'm going over that on my LHS straight. Can hear the motor slow down, and visually the car falls on it's face just over 1/2 length of the straight.
Looking for more low in punch and want to know how high of an rpm I can run a 13.5 with timing. Currently set at 15k and I'm pretty sure I'm going over that on my LHS straight. Can hear the motor slow down, and visually the car falls on it's face just over 1/2 length of the straight.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Anyone have a good starting setup for 13.5 Orion motor, stock endbell timing, Durango 210 (2.6 FDR) and 75T spur?
Looking for more low in punch and want to know how high of an rpm I can run a 13.5 with timing. Currently set at 15k and I'm pretty sure I'm going over that on my LHS straight. Can hear the motor slow down, and visually the car falls on it's face just over 1/2 length of the straight.
Looking for more low in punch and want to know how high of an rpm I can run a 13.5 with timing. Currently set at 15k and I'm pretty sure I'm going over that on my LHS straight. Can hear the motor slow down, and visually the car falls on it's face just over 1/2 length of the straight.
You may want to look at using a smaller pinion/bigger spur to let the motor spin up. You may be dumping too much timing into the motor, and it's just unable to turn the wheels due to the very low drive ratio.
Start with an RPM of around 4000, and an end point of 13-14,000. Then start adding boost and turbo as required. If the temps are ok, and if the performance is good, you can start to increase the rate at which boost is dumped into the motor by reducing the RPM range. Once the temps go up but the performance doesn't, back off a bit, and you should be good.
If you need extra kick on the straight, add turbo. I currently use 10 ticks of turbo, 0.1/0.15 delay, ramp 2. Lots of acceleration. Note that on a new motor I was previously using (but had to remove due to a bad bearing), I wasn't using any turbo; but, I had some extra end-bell timing added.
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Your FDR seems really, really low. I currently run an older Orca 13.5T motor in our SS TC class, and I'm geared at 6.76. Another driver at our track is geared at 7.4 (newer motor, adjustable end-bell).
You may want to look at using a smaller pinion/bigger spur to let the motor spin up. You may be dumping too much timing into the motor, and it's just unable to turn the wheels due to the very low drive ratio.
Start with an RPM of around 4000, and an end point of 13-14,000. Then start adding boost and turbo as required. If the temps are ok, and if the performance is good, you can start to increase the rate at which boost is dumped into the motor by reducing the RPM range. Once the temps go up but the performance doesn't, back off a bit, and you should be good.
If you need extra kick on the straight, add turbo. I currently use 10 ticks of turbo, 0.1/0.15 delay, ramp 2. Lots of acceleration. Note that on a new motor I was previously using (but had to remove due to a bad bearing), I wasn't using any turbo; but, I had some extra end-bell timing added.
You may want to look at using a smaller pinion/bigger spur to let the motor spin up. You may be dumping too much timing into the motor, and it's just unable to turn the wheels due to the very low drive ratio.
Start with an RPM of around 4000, and an end point of 13-14,000. Then start adding boost and turbo as required. If the temps are ok, and if the performance is good, you can start to increase the rate at which boost is dumped into the motor by reducing the RPM range. Once the temps go up but the performance doesn't, back off a bit, and you should be good.
If you need extra kick on the straight, add turbo. I currently use 10 ticks of turbo, 0.1/0.15 delay, ramp 2. Lots of acceleration. Note that on a new motor I was previously using (but had to remove due to a bad bearing), I wasn't using any turbo; but, I had some extra end-bell timing added.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
That makes a lot more sense....
Try a 27t pinion, which will land you on a FDR of 7.2. Use the above settings to get started, and then start playing with boost/turbo as required.
Try a 27t pinion, which will land you on a FDR of 7.2. Use the above settings to get started, and then start playing with boost/turbo as required.
Randy, will the new software let us customize the throttle profile? That would be a really cool feature to have.