Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
factory is 12
if you used the rpm range that he did raise the end 2-3k
if you used the rpm range that he did raise the end 2-3k
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
So with all this timing in the esc and motors is it still possible to undergear? I have been fighting what I call a "lag" problem with my car for a couple weeks and can't seem to figure it out. I don't my my exact setup with me right now, but just wanted to see if it's possible to way undergear and still have heat issues? Just off the top of my head:
Car: Tam 416
FDR: 7.41
boost: 43
turbo: 10
start rpm: 29xx
end: 10,500
Ramp: 2
Motor: Ballistic 17.5
Track is large and flowing 180' x 72' I think it is.
With these settings I came off at 203*
Car: Tam 416
FDR: 7.41
boost: 43
turbo: 10
start rpm: 29xx
end: 10,500
Ramp: 2
Motor: Ballistic 17.5
Track is large and flowing 180' x 72' I think it is.
With these settings I came off at 203*
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
So with all this timing in the esc and motors is it still possible to undergear? I have been fighting what I call a "lag" problem with my car for a couple weeks and can't seem to figure it out. I don't my my exact setup with me right now, but just wanted to see if it's possible to way undergear and still have heat issues? Just off the top of my head:
Car: Tam 416
FDR: 7.41 Try a 5.75-6.25
boost: 43 50
turbo: 10
start rpm: 29xx 5,XXX
end: 10,500 15,XXX
Ramp: 2
Motor: Ballistic 17.5
Track is large and flowing 180' x 72' I think it is.
With these settings I came off at 203*
Car: Tam 416
FDR: 7.41 Try a 5.75-6.25
boost: 43 50
turbo: 10
start rpm: 29xx 5,XXX
end: 10,500 15,XXX
Ramp: 2
Motor: Ballistic 17.5
Track is large and flowing 180' x 72' I think it is.
With these settings I came off at 203*
You didn't mention what your turbo delay and motor timing are. These can be important parts of the equation. In addition to the above, you should experiment with a Ramp of 3, turbo delay between .1 and .3, and running 0-10* of motor timing.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Thanks, the fdr range you suggest is about what everyone else is running, but when I was in that range my car just had no punch what so ever. My delay was .4 and I changed it to .2 and my motor timing is at the first mark past the N, 5*? Like I said I have been fighting this total lack of bottom end and that was why I was running the goofy high FDR. When I ran a setup more like what you suggest it was fast and the temps were down(160-170ish), but it was a dog off the line and anytime I let off throttle. I will try going back to that though and see what I can make happen. Thank's for the help.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Thanks, the fdr range you suggest is about what everyone else is running, but when I was in that range my car just had no punch what so ever. My delay was .4 and I changed it to .2 and my motor timing is at the first mark past the N, 5*? Like I said I have been fighting this total lack of bottom end and that was why I was running the goofy high FDR. When I ran a setup more like what you suggest it was fast and the temps were down(160-170ish), but it was a dog off the line and anytime I let off throttle. I will try going back to that though and see what I can make happen. Thank's for the help.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I had the same problems for a while. Try the 5,XXX RPM start with a .1 delay for the turbo, ramp 2. See how that feels as far as rip. You've already gone really high on your FDR, so try to keep adding teeth and see how the car reacts. I have found that a higher start RPM with a little bit of motor timing actually has more rip than a lower start RPM and no motor timing.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Let me know how it goes.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Will do man, thanks again. It's supposed to rain here in sunny ohio until friday so, I will try to get out then and do some testing.
Tech Adept
I had the same problems for a while. Try the 5,XXX RPM start with a .1 delay for the turbo, ramp 2. See how that feels as far as rip. You've already gone really high on your FDR, so try to keep adding teeth and see how the car reacts. I have found that a higher start RPM with a little bit of motor timing actually has more rip than a lower start RPM and no motor timing.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Hey Tekin,
My speedo came with some white silicone wire.
Any chance that Tekin would sell the wire separately?
Please?
My speedo came with some white silicone wire.
Any chance that Tekin would sell the wire separately?
Please?
brakes
The difference is likely to be negligable. If it were as strong as you suggest, hitting brakes from 34k RPM compared to 0 RPM would rip the transmission right out. But it doesn't.
The fact here is that some Tekin speedos have rubbish brakes. Why? Nobody seems to know.
I have one that stops instantly when moving slowly (which shatters the rotor RPM theory - excuse the pun) and stops in about 3 to 4 metres from 40mph at 34k rpm. I have another that stops instantly when moving slowly, but takes about 7 to 8 metres to stop from full speed. The full speed braking for that speedo is only fixed by turning the reverse on at low power.
Forget all the timing and RPM theories because you've probably got one of the speedos with good brakes straight out of the box.
And if people are locking their tyres up on a high grip track, it's either not as high grip as they think, their car setup is making the car bounce or they're not braking in a straight line so the tyres are trying to steer and brake at the same time.
Oh, and I should add, I buy all my own gear and I really like my Tekins (now at least) so this isn't a bashing by a fan boy of another manufacturer.
The fact here is that some Tekin speedos have rubbish brakes. Why? Nobody seems to know.
I have one that stops instantly when moving slowly (which shatters the rotor RPM theory - excuse the pun) and stops in about 3 to 4 metres from 40mph at 34k rpm. I have another that stops instantly when moving slowly, but takes about 7 to 8 metres to stop from full speed. The full speed braking for that speedo is only fixed by turning the reverse on at low power.
Forget all the timing and RPM theories because you've probably got one of the speedos with good brakes straight out of the box.
And if people are locking their tyres up on a high grip track, it's either not as high grip as they think, their car setup is making the car bounce or they're not braking in a straight line so the tyres are trying to steer and brake at the same time.
Oh, and I should add, I buy all my own gear and I really like my Tekins (now at least) so this isn't a bashing by a fan boy of another manufacturer.
Would have been nice to have been told that "sometimes work and sometimes dont work"....A bit like the chinese rubbish..
Bad quality control..as I sent one back for a fix and they sent a refurbished unit back.and yes...No brakes....
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
That is one thing I can say, my car has more brakes than I know what to do with. Since updating to 203 the car has crazy brakes and with the high FDR when I let out of the throttle at the end of the straight the nose of the car actually dives down like I hit the brakes(I do not hit the brakes). I do not have any drag brake set in either. During 189 days I did have a problem with weak brakes, but they have been good ever since then.
Tech Regular
I have noticed that when I run 13.5 with my rs the brakes are good but when I run 10.5 the brakes are weak. Could be because the increase in RPM im not sure
Tech Addict
That is one thing I can say, my car has more brakes than I know what to do with. Since updating to 203 the car has crazy brakes and with the high FDR when I let out of the throttle at the end of the straight the nose of the car actually dives down like I hit the brakes(I do not hit the brakes). I do not have any drag brake set in either. During 189 days I did have a problem with weak brakes, but they have been good ever since then.