23T motor thread
#1036
Originally Posted by curious mind
Hello sir, just happen to be trying a freinds 23T motor. its a Kawada VX-R 23T, just want to know its characteristic, i mean is it a RPM or torque motor? The local race track is something like 116ft x 96ft total size, having sweeping runs and technical layout. Hope you can help me with some information so i can gear the motor correctly. tnx sir
Sorry am not the best with gearing. Maybe someone else can jump in here and help out???
#1037
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by diha
Hi Guys,
Anyone running HPI R2 motors?
Any commend?
Which is better? Standup or laydown brushes?
Does it really affect the performance?
Anyone running HPI R2 motors?
Any commend?
Which is better? Standup or laydown brushes?
Does it really affect the performance?
HPI R2 motors are very much similar with the Orion Katana motors. Both uses same orion based can (TOP) and the endbell as well. I dont see any difference between the two except for the sticker.
#1038
Tech Master
Originally Posted by curious mind
Hello sir, just happen to be trying a freinds 23T motor. its a Kawada VX-R 23T, just want to know its characteristic, i mean is it a RPM or torque motor? The local race track is something like 116ft x 96ft total size, having sweeping runs and technical layout. Hope you can help me with some information so i can gear the motor correctly. tnx sir
My friend and I run the Kawada VX-R 23t motor at speedzone. The Kawada is an RPM motor... ...I think. But it also produces the amount of torque required for the track. The Kawada heats up more than the HPI R2 23t but I think its ok and normal. It also has a built in cooling fan just below the commutator of the armature.
I have the specs but it's on PDF file which cannot be uploaded or posted here.
#1039
Kawada new VX-R
http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/moro_in...004/index.html
I'm using 5.8 (large track) to 6.2 (small track) ratio. It's by far the most stable machine-wounded 23T I used so far. It does hotter than others but the buildin fan doesn't cool it down a lot I guess. I had one burndown already and almost got 2nd one burndown. Remember to put a heatsink for this hotty..
http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/moro_in...004/index.html
I'm using 5.8 (large track) to 6.2 (small track) ratio. It's by far the most stable machine-wounded 23T I used so far. It does hotter than others but the buildin fan doesn't cool it down a lot I guess. I had one burndown already and almost got 2nd one burndown. Remember to put a heatsink for this hotty..
#1040
Tech Master
Originally Posted by ttso
Kawada new VX-R
http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/moro_in...004/index.html
I'm using 5.8 (large track) to 6.2 (small track) ratio. It's by far the most stable machine-wounded 23T I used so far. It does hotter than others but the buildin fan doesn't cool it down a lot I guess. I had one burndown already and almost got 2nd one burndown. Remember to put a heatsink for this hotty..
http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/moro_in...004/index.html
I'm using 5.8 (large track) to 6.2 (small track) ratio. It's by far the most stable machine-wounded 23T I used so far. It does hotter than others but the buildin fan doesn't cool it down a lot I guess. I had one burndown already and almost got 2nd one burndown. Remember to put a heatsink for this hotty..
Available in 7 different anodized colors.
Last edited by Nicadrauspro4; 01-09-2006 at 12:37 PM. Reason: add info
#1041
dave
Where is Dave?
#1043
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
23t RZ
Hi there,
Im from the UK and wanting to get my not yet delivered 23t RZ to beat my fellow 19t at my local club......any ideas???
Many thanks
Adam
Im from the UK and wanting to get my not yet delivered 23t RZ to beat my fellow 19t at my local club......any ideas???
Many thanks
Adam
Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
The LR is the king of RPM for the 23T`s that are out now a little brush magic and a some hood adjustments with a little spring tweaking and you can get 40000+ rpm form the LR..
as far as the RZ goes.. I know if a few tricks but it will not come near 40000 RPM... the most I have been able to get from the RZ is about 37000 ish
-Dave
as far as the RZ goes.. I know if a few tricks but it will not come near 40000 RPM... the most I have been able to get from the RZ is about 37000 ish
-Dave
#1045
Tamiya RZ
Originally Posted by maxepower
Tamiya's RZ 23 turn works great but you need to tweek the motor to get maximum power. I've seen a tweeked 23 turn blow past a 19 turn like it was standing still!
Downside the motor gets real hot if you gear it too low!
Downside the motor gets real hot if you gear it too low!
#1046
Tech Master
Flatout 23t and Techtro 23T motors are really fast. Especially when equiped with silver brushes. Orion Katana 23t motors are fast too. You guys should try those.
#1047
Tech Apprentice
during last weekends carpet race.
i used my Tamiya RZ for the 23T qualify.
i did all the usuals and used a pair of Trinity 4503 Brushes for both + and -.
i tweaked the + spring a bit.
the car was very very fast it took me by surprise with loads of punch.
but the downside is, i burnt the motor before the 8minutes, possiblily the gearing was set incorrectly, I was using 6.2.
next time i am going to try it again with a more safer gearing ratio.
both the new Orion Katana and Kawada 23T motors were very fast stock standard as well. Worth a try.
i used my Tamiya RZ for the 23T qualify.
i did all the usuals and used a pair of Trinity 4503 Brushes for both + and -.
i tweaked the + spring a bit.
the car was very very fast it took me by surprise with loads of punch.
but the downside is, i burnt the motor before the 8minutes, possiblily the gearing was set incorrectly, I was using 6.2.
next time i am going to try it again with a more safer gearing ratio.
both the new Orion Katana and Kawada 23T motors were very fast stock standard as well. Worth a try.
#1049
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
TWEEKED 23 turn
Originally Posted by rcfordummies
max...can u tell me how to tweek the RZ?
Just kidding!!!
A lot of the previous threads are all good suggestions. When I say Tweeked, I should have said tuned. Align the brush hoods, shim the arm to the proper location and spacing. Proper brush and spring combo. Turn the com to the proper diameter. No big secret, just good common sense tuning!
That's it!