popsracer

Guys;

Not a very big turnout last night. Only 4 of us ran in Stock class.

The Pro-3 worked Excellent, my looseness last weekend was indeed caused by the dusty track effecting the Bearings. The Car was dialed. Finished 2nd only a few seconds behind the leader and that with having my Car Marshalled one time.

The New LRP v7.1 has really made a difference in the performance of the Car over my Tekin G-9. I am able to run about .5 higher FDR gearing now and still maintain the same lever of punch.

One thing I noticed today when cleaning the Car, was I forgot to Shoe-Goo the Hinge Pins and one of them was 1/2 out in the Front. Won't forget that again.

sparky123

i'm planning on racing on pretty grippy asphalt parking lot.
what do you guys recommend in terms of required hop ups?

calvin

Pops,
Try grinding a little flat spot around the diameter of your hinge pins under where the set screw mounts. This works great and you'll never need to use the Shoo Goo again. You don't need to grind very deep. Just roughing it up to give something for the set screw to grip on works very well.

popsracer

calvin;

When you race your Pro-3 every weekend like I do. You soon find out that the setscrews alone (even with the notch) will not keep the Hinge Pins in place for very long.

The Shoe-Goo is just about fool proof, as long as the fool doesn't forget to use it.

calvin

Just trying to be helpful. Our team has raced two PRO3 pretty much each weekend for the past two years and have never had a problem with the hinge pins using this method. If you're going to use the Shoo Goo you should put a little something to protect it from contacting the hinge pin. Not a big deal but the hinge pin should be free to easily rotate within the A-arm to eliminate any possiblility of binding up the suspension. Either that or don't use the set screw and allow the pin to rotate within the upright (I wouldn't recommend this). If you're not real careful the Shoo Goo will bind up the suspension by putting a substantial drag on the movement between the hinge pin and the A-arm. In my car preparation I usually go to a lot of effort in this area to ensure easy, smooth suspension movement without slop which is one of the big problems with the PRO3. Early on when we used the Shoo Goo method we cut out a little piece of teflon and pushed it in the hole prior to applying the Shoo Goo. Lacking this a little piece of paper will work well also.

FWIW

popsracer

calvin;

Never had the Goo bind the Pins before, but I can easily see that happening if one's not careful. Even with the notches, I've had the setscrews come loose and a Pin run into a rim.

Thanks for the advice.

I must have bought $50 worth of suspension shims over the years, when I was exclusively running HPI Cars. They still come in handy when things get a little loose from wear.
Personally, I like nice slop free suspension as the my Cars handle more consistent when so.

newracer

I have the Lunsford Ti hinge pins in my car, they have a notch all the way around the pin. since I got thos ethe pins have never come loose and I rarely check the set screw.

I didn't have as good of a showing today, finshed 4th the in the A main, qualified 7th so I guess moving up is good.

calvin

A simple test can be performed after rebuilding the suspension before mounting the shocks and wheels. Check how easily and free (but without slop) the suspension will move. It is surprising how easily the Shoo Goo will bind the suspension to some degree. It's not unusual to find three of the four suspension systems bound to some degree or another. This is what led me to using the paper, then the teflon and finally switching to the slotted pins to eliminate the hassle of using the Shoo Goo all together. Granted, 99.99% of the drivers would not be able to tell any difference, but it's one of those little things that can be done to the car for no cost except a little patience and time.

popsracer

You have a PM.

Jamie Fredericks

iTrader: (20)

does anyone have a hb chassis or hpi chassis that they would want to get rid of. im building up a pro3 and need a little bit of help.
thanks

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Does anyone know where I can find an interactive setup sheet for the pro3 that can be edited in Adobe Acrobat?

Thanks in advance.

calvin

Curious as to what exactly you would need to make an interactive one. I have a setup sheet in JPG format that I made some time ago using Excell that takes into account some of the PRO3 options including graphite shock tower mount locations, 3 and 4 deg C-hub, sway bars, shock bladders as well as a place to notate the chassis and top deck being used and maybe a few other things I've forgotten about. It is a modified version of the one developed by HPI. I have attached it to this post and you are more than welcome to use it if it can be of any help. They only thing I ask is if you are somehow able to make it interactive that you post it here for other members to use.

newracer

to edit an adobe acrobat file you need the full version of adobe acrobat, not just the free adobe acrobat reader

I made the decision to move up to the expert class at my local track, I installed a novak brushless in my pro 3 last night!!

popsracer

Guys;

I've tried some of the Freeware/Shareware Programs for editing PDF files and they all S__k.
I believe that the full version of Acrobat ($$$) is the only way to create an interactive sheet successfully.

MDawson;

Since we race at the same Tracks, you going to share some of the Pro-3 secrets with me ?

church

popsracer, where do you guys race at?