popsracer

sosidge;
JDM_DOHC_SiR;

Thanks guys. I think this confirms my theory that the front arms are flexing and causing part of the problem.
What I'll try first is raising the Rear RC (top hole), and I'll get the stiffer Graphite Arms. If I find that I need more Mid corner, then I'll install the Torque Rods. I was having so much trouble with my nitro cars that day, that I didn't have time to do any spring changes. Traction was medium at best.

rc-zombies;

As of this last race, I have the 3 deg hubs installed with 2 deg Kick-up (5 total from 6 before)

Everyone thanks for your help,

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

If you're going to get the Graphite arms...you might as well get the 3deg graphite C-hubs as well. this will drastically improve your steering and stiffen up the front end to that you may not need the torque rods at all...

popsracer

Just buy A491 Pulley set and A492 Outdrive parts and this will give you about 90% of the parts to go NON one-ways.
I would definately recommend removing the One-way countershaft pulley first. If you let up on the throttle with both this will cause the car to swap ends. With the double one-ways you need to stay on-power all the time and for sure not to brake with the wheels turned.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

The use of one-way are better suited for high traction tracks.
I gear my P2K2 at 6.2+/- final drive.
for me even on medium bite tracks...I use the double one-ways.
cornering speed is greatly improved. I never race with them.
It take alot of practice running one-way...after you have mastered them..you will never go back to standard diffs again.

popsracer

Guys;

Thanks again for the help.
I bought the Graphite arm set today and will get them installed before my next electric race (2/9/03). Really is a BIG difference in how little they flex (none) compared to the stock kit pieces.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

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jpn

iTrader: (1)

Guys,

Try this...use the graphite arms in the rear and the
stock arms up front but use the 3 deg. graphite c hub.
With that set up change I noticed a improvement in
steering.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

was watching a bashing session involving a coupla pro3's running 23T stockers...
right after start(2yards) comes a slow 90 left(turning radius about 2 yards).2 cars just slightly clipped each other..and one couldn't move after that...
as he went to collect his car we were all
cos his chassis broke into 2!!!!!
just the stock plastic chassis..man it is flimsy or what?

popsracer

lee82gx;

The ONLY thing that I've broken on my Pro-3 are the little rings that go over the diff outdrives. Broke 2 and cut off the other 2. Haven't used them since and no problems.
Seen a few Losi XXXS's break/crack chassis's after a hard side impact by another car but never in 1/2.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

yeah it was probably a one-off thing..
in chinese it's called the 'death node' being activated..

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Sounds like a good reason to get one of the newer graphite chassis'
-Dave

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

yup
those new HPI woven graphite chassis is unbreakable!

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

really?the graphite has no such problem?u mean graphite as in tub graphite and not the CF plate right?
i was thinking the graphite is more prone to such breakages.
now that we've calmed down it sounds hilarious.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Nope not the tub...the CF plate chassis.
beside the woven CF chassis is not available. the molded graphite chassis can still break...and it still flexy!

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

i dont know abt that...have been told the HPI CF chassis is better(thicker) and still cheaper than the HB ones.
i was kinda hoping this pro3 will last me at least until pro4.
speaking of it anyone knows an approx. release date?