RoyU

iTrader: (2)

How/why does a spur gear relate to the motor being used? If I needed a particular gear ratio for a 13.5 and change to a 17.5 and still get ratio I need for the 17.5 without changing the spur, why do I need to change the spur gear?

racing_jason

Just a quick question
I run on a track with med traction and was wondering what would cause excesive left rear tire wear. (when i say excesive i mean i can start with a tire at 1.7 and finish with about 1.63) We have about an equal amount of high speed corners left and right. Could it be my diff being to tight to loose? pre load on side springs?
any help would be great!
Thanks Jason Hunt

ZiG-87

iTrader: (5)

So I just took apart the diff on my r5 that I bought used, and noticed that two of the ball bearings are silver, and seem ever so slightly larger than the rest, which are black. This also seems to have the effect of making the spur gear wobble a bit side to side when everything is put together. Wtf? Has anyone seen this before?

RacinJ

Time to replace your diff balls and rings.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Gonna go over the obvious list here. Please do not take offense.

Are you seeing this wear inside of an 8 minute run?
Do you rotate your tires from left to right after every run?
I'm guessing your track runs counter clockwise?
If this is the case there will always be 4 more right turns then left. No matter what.

The extra right turns needed to complete the course will cause the left tires to wear sooner than the right. This is why it's important to rotate the tires every round.

If you see this type of wear inside of 8 mins, you may want to go over the setup as well as how you are entering the turns. If your car is sticking the front end and sliding the rear, this may cause excessive wear.

Some more info on your setup may help.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Some guy's do this because of the hardness of steel and ceramic/carbid balls... I've not tested it myself. But some say the carbid balls wore out more, then the steel, and to have a long lasting diff the put in some steel balls to give it more lifetime. Personally I'm runnig ceramic balls only.

Wobly spur is a good thing. But not "to much". It must sit free between the diff plate's or else the diff will not run as smoot as it should be. The platse wil then be touching the spur gear which causes friction. But make sure you only use 1/8 balls and no balls are bigger or smaller, that's not a good thing...

Somewhere in the 1:12 scale topic these a good building manual for your 12th scale diff, try folowing that :-).

Best Regards,
Robert

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

+1

Make sure you rotate your tires after every run...
Also make sure your car is not "drifting" or "sliding" on the left turn corners. Oversteer wears the tires more then just running....
How long do you soak your tires, and with what additive? longer soak will make the tires wear more...

Best Regards Robert

racing_jason

Sorry guess i should posted more infor lol sorry

Front End
DBL Pink Front tires 1.65
.020 Spring
10 degree with caster shims to the back
widend the front by 1mm
10k on king pin

Batt In forward position
Center Shock
Red Spring
30wt oil

blue side springs
25wt side shock
Rear Tires are either pink or yellow depending on the night at 1.70

Soak wise i use roughly about 10min and wipe right before the run
I always rotate the tires on front and rear. And this tire wear is threw a full 8 min main or qualifier.

One theory i have is that the rear tires are to soft? could this be a possability?

Thanks Jason Hunt

thunderdaddy

is anyone running a sedan or nascar style body? if so what you runnin'?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

mccallister racing from what I understand makes a body like that.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Set-up doesn't look wierd, only think I don't understand is the red spring in combination with the pretty soft tires... Why not use the blue spring with a Magenta (bit harder) tire...

Yellow is pretty soft, and wears hard, when the grip is high.

Best Regards

Robert

racing_jason

that is what i was kind of leaning toward to do to see if it would make some wear changes.
thanks for the idea i appriciate the help!
Jason Hunt

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

So far so good for the A-team at Euros! 1st and 2nd on the grid in the modified class after 2 rounds!

There is coverage on RedRC. Maybe more coverage somewhere else, Im not sure.

gguertin145

iTrader: (9)

Is the setup a few posts earlier for 17.5??? I have tried looking around for 17.5 setups and havent found many? Can someone send me a link to one.

Thanks!

aantonis

I have just recently bought myself a 5.1 and I m seeking some advice on setting my little car up given the fact that the 1/12 class in Greece is currently non-existent. In order for you to help me out I have to give you as many facts as possible. So, our first race will take place on this ( http://www.elmegallery.gr/displayima...album=35&pos=4 ) track and we currently dont know which layout we will use. Certainly we will have to use one of the two straights which are approx 65-85 feet long, depending on which one we run. A bit bumpy when compared to the tracks you run in the UK and the US.
Traction should be considered low, as on the same day, a 1/10 touring class race will take place too. Otherwise, I would consider it extremely low as the track is not treated with any traction stuff at all.
Mod motors are allowed and my pit bag carries a 4.5, a 5.5 and a 7.5 with 1s lipo and an ESC choice between SXX TC and SXX stock.
Tyre choices are limited to CRC normal and pro-cuts.

Given these facts what equipment would you run on this track? What roll-out would you consider as a good starting point? What tyres?
Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
By the way, keep in mind that given the amateur level of all of us, anyone who manages to have a consistent car, even if it is a bit slower than the others, will definately win this race by miles.